Blue fox fur

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Blue fox fur, Polish breed
Blue Fox Fur (2009)

The arctic fox is divided zoologically into two colors, the blue fox and the white fox . This article treats the blue fox fur as a commodity. For the fur of the fox traded as an arctic fox, also known as the ice fox, arctic fox or stone fox , see arctic fox fur .

The blue fox, a white fox color, is considered more valuable than the matted and smaller fur of the white fox. Almost white blue foxes with only a slight hint of a darker fur center are traded as shadow foxes ; pure white furs towards the end user, like that of the arctic fox, as a white fox.

In the technical language of the tobacco industry , the dark, bluish winter coats of all types of fur are referred to as " blue ", not just those of the "blue" foxes, in contrast to " red ", the rather lighter and therefore less appreciated color variants of the same type of fur.

The fur trade counts the blue fox fur to the so-called noble fox fur , like the silver fox fur , the arctic fox fur and the cross fox fur .

  • The wild European populations of the blue and arctic fox are strictly protected according to the Federal Species Protection Ordinance.

hide

The pelts from wild animals are about 50 to 65 cm long, the tail 25 to 35 cm, the pelts of males are only slightly larger than those of the females. Hides from farms are considerably larger.

The long and very silky hair varies from blue-brown and the lightest “ café au lait ” to light blue- gray and deep dark brown, sometimes almost black with shades of rust-red and clay-dirty , sometimes with silver hair. The summer fur is dark black-brown and usually a little more brown than the winter fur.

The hair change often begins towards the end of the satchel , it is particularly clearly visible on the fur of pregnant females. The first hairs fall out on the shoulders. Winter fur begins to form in August.

The fur of young blue and white foxes from the wild is initially completely dark; the Russian fur hunters call this age group Nornik ("cave dwellers"). The late summer pelts are lighter on the sides, belly and legs, while the dark gray hue remains on the neck, shoulders and back, where it creates a cross-like pattern. These skins are known as krestowatik ("cross-bearers").

In 1960, white animals appeared in Poland for the first time from birth in isolated cases, the systematic breeding of which was pursued further. Such animals are said to have also occurred in Norway. The young white foxes that appeared in Poland were probably two genetically different mutations . After just a few days, two mutations were easy to distinguish, one remained pure white, the other had the characteristic drawing and color of the platinum fox .

Breeding blue foxes have a completely different hair structure than their wild ancestors. The wool fleece is thinner, the hair thickness is greater. The picture also shows a different color. The basic hair is practically white and only tinted gray in the lower area. The awning ends show a more or less bluish-brown color.

The wild catches are differentiated from the trade

Russia-Siberia : Medium in size, medium smoke; very silky. Light colored, partly silvered. About the same as the Greenland type.
Arctic (Arc) : From northern Canada and western Greenland. Medium in size, silky and sometimes also silvery in light and dark colors.
Icelanders : Small, light gray, partly woolly, almost milky, bluish-gray undercoat. Back and tail often mixed with white awns . Iceland provides the weaker, Greenland the stronger qualities.
Greenlanders : Almost shimmering violet, light with light, silky guard hair. Silvering often distinctive. Lusciously hairy dewlap .
Alaska : Origin Hudson Bay and Labrador (Alaska type) are tall, very smoky (full-haired) and silky. Dark and little silvered. The Alaska varieties are larger, but a little coarser and woolier in the hair, but blue.

The durability coefficient for noble fox skins is given as 50 to 60 percent. When fur animals are divided into the fineness classes silky, fine, medium-fine, coarse and hard, the blue fox hair is classified as fine.

Only winter fur, both from the blue and white fox, is available for sale. Hunting and catching young animals in summer dress is prohibited. General bans on hunting and catching arctic foxes have existed in Sweden since 1928, and in Norway and Finland since 1930.

History, trade, breeding

Lush blue fox scarves and thigh . From an American prospectus from 1910.

The fur trader Stepan Glotow managed to reach the coast of Alaska via the islands of Unalaska and Umnak in 1759 . Others soon followed in order to exploit the fabulous wealth of fur that far exceeded that of Siberia. The most important beneficiary was Gregor Schelechow, a businessman from Okhotsk . From his first visit he brought along 17 tons of walrus teeth , 8 tons of isinglass , 2000 beaver skins , 4000 sea ​​otter skins and 6000 blue fox skins .

The wife of Henry II of France, Katharina de Medici (* April 13, 1519 - † January 5, 1589), owned a very expensive, elaborately blue fox- trimmed coat during the peak price phase of blue fox fur. The blue fox fur has always been more valuable than the fur of the white fox, only around the 1920s the white fox experienced a heyday as a glamorous item of clothing. In some areas, the preferred hunt for the blue fox has shifted the former natural balance in favor of the white fox. On the Bering Island almost only blue foxes were captured around 1742, which were destroyed " except for a meager remnant ", the white foxes remained almost unmolested (according to Steller ). The same shifts due to this targeted hunt can also be determined for the Siberian Arctic Ocean . One of the areas most populated by the arctic fox is the west coast of Greenland. There used to be 7 white foxes in one catch for every 10 blue foxes. In 1961 it said: “ For some time now, however, the ratio has been 5: 5. On the east coast, the white fox has always dominated. Catch result 2 blue foxes to 10 white foxes ”.

Marie of Edinburgh , Queen of Romania (born October 29, 1875 - † July 18, 1938) in a mole coat with a blue fox shawl collar

The Russian Arctic Institute observed on the commanders ' islands that about every four years "large" blue fox years with unusual numbers of animals occur.

The first particular economic interest in blue fox fur was evident when Russians brought blue foxes to the Aleutian island of Kiska , to Amilia Island and to the Cascade Mountains in 1835 , in order to allow them to develop further there, initially free-roaming. In 1885, Kodiak's Semidi Propagation Co. began breeding ten pairs of wild animals on the Pribilof Islands , which were brought to the island of Chowiet, later South South Semidi , off Alaska for breeding . The company itself had no financial success, as the company also supplied other islands with breeding animals, but they laid the foundation for the blue fox breeding in Alaska. The real upswing began in 1916, after the temporarily reduced demand caused by the First World War.

In 1926 there were six groups of Alaskan islands on which blue foxes were bred. The first group was formed by the islands southeast of Alaska or the Alexander Archipelago ; the second group was on Prince William Sound , the third in the Lower Cook Inlet , the fourth in the Kodiak Afognak District, the fifth on the Alaska Peninsula itself, and the sixth in the Aleutian Islands . At that time, however, it was already becoming apparent that keeping animals in an enclosure is likely to result in fewer losses than island breeding. Among other things, the breeders not only lost foxes to birds of prey, but it was also shown that the foxes are good swimmers and disappeared to nearby islands or the mainland.

In 1858 a Russian decree ordered the killing of all white foxes in the other areas while at the same time restricting the hunt for the blue fox.

In 1801, Buse wrote about the blue fox: “ Their rarity makes them valuable. Your hair reflects a beautiful shine. “And about use and value:“ … Hungarian furs are fed with white. ... Blue is used to make furs and lapels for women. Because of their high price, they are only used by rich and distinguished people ... The current value of these skins is 10 to 25 thalers each. "

In parts of northern America, as late as 1900, blue fox skins were " a kind of exchange money with the native Eskimos ". In Thule , Greenland , the Inuit women still wore full-body furs made of blue fox in the 1920s, which were made from 14 skins and represented the "considerable" value of 7,000 Danish kroner at the time.

Almost simultaneously with the silver foxes one also began to breed blue foxes (1890s), but breeding did not reach the same extent until the Second World War. The Italian fashion author Irene Brin remembers in connection with the appearance of Marlene Dietrich at the bar in Colony, dressed in the first red fox coat that was publicly noticed: “ It was only a few years ago in 1932 that people started wearing light colored foxes, who replaced the traditional mole stoles , pine marten necklaces or ties made from stone marten in spring : and now everyone wants two whole foxes with their snouts next to each other and paws tied together, while the ladies with greater ambitions inaugurate their first silver fox collars. "

Blue fox breeding developed very slowly, the relatively high deliveries from the wild kept the price of fur low, and breeding proved to be more difficult than that of the silver fox despite larger litters.

Today the skins come mainly from Scandinavia, Poland, the former Soviet Union and North America.

In 1911 Emil Brass reported on blue foxes on the Pribilof Islands St. Paul and St. George . The native foxes kept free-range there are “big and good in color. The animals are properly bred there and only the best specimens are allowed for breeding ... It has been possible to improve the breed significantly, so that the skins get a good price. Around 500 of them are now being killed there every year. Blue foxes are now also being bred in so-called fox farms on various other islands on the Alaska coast, for which the government leases the land for a nominal amount. These ventures pay off very well. Every year around 3 to 4,000 blue foxes come to London from the coast of Alaska, but this number is expected to increase considerably soon. Blue foxes of good quality and color also come from northern Siberia, large skins that are somewhat dull in color. I have not been able to determine the exact number, but it should not be more than a few thousand pieces a year. Most of the pelts coming from the polar region to Seattle and San Francisco remain in the country. The value of a blue fox is 60 to 200 Mk per piece, depending on the quality "

Blue fox stole in the musical “ Hello Dolly! "(Poland, 2010)

With the beginning of the Second World War in 1939/40, fashion turned away from long-haired fur - in Germany only at the beginning of the currency reform in 1948 - and the era of the Persian and later that of the mink began. Blue fox breeding only increased again in the 1960s.

As with other types of fur, the taste of blue fox fur has changed over the years. Before 1940 there was still a demand for particularly dark, technically blue, foxes. In 1970 Fritz Schmidt describes the new type of fox: “A fox that is well covered from head to tail with soft, pure-colored guard hairs that have to have a black tip to achieve the desired contrasting effect . In the case of a white or strongly blue-tinged undercoat, its color ranges from very light to deep dark blue or blue-gray, and a mostly strongly spreading silver finish completes the soft, silky character of this coat. “The Greenlandic type came closest to these ideas, a purposeful cross between wild and bred animals, initially of purely Greenlandic origin. The pure silver comes from the Iceland fox, the abundant short, smooth and soft outer hair and the thick, strong undercoat from the Spitzbergen fox and the clear blue color from the Jan Mayen fox . In addition, through constant selection, the body length was now 15 to 20 centimeters larger.

In America mostly the Alaska type is bred, in Norway and Finland a very light blue fox type, in Sweden the Alaska and Greenland type (status 1988). Blue foxes from Norway have been traded as a separate type of fox under the name Norwegian Blue Fox since 2017 . They come from a cross between the Alaska blue fox and the Arctic blue fox. Characteristic for the type is a short, blue and black-tipped upper hair with a clear contrast to the dense and short undercoat, which is quite light-colored, slightly shaded blue at the base.

Very good quality and large blue fox skins come from Poland, they are similar to the good Norwegian qualities. Due to the often particularly dense awn, they are well suited for dyeing. In 1988 the range consisted of one third of the extra large, large and medium or small skins. The main colors were pale, medium, dark and extra dark. Compared to other breeds, there were only a few sub-varieties.

Queen Elizabeth II with a colored blue fox cap (2005)
Fox skins are offered in different sizes, qualities and colors at the auctions:
Polish
and Scandinavian
Russian Icelanders
and Greenlanders
Sizes:
00 = over 106 cm 0 = over 80 cm 1 = more than 85 cm
0 = 97-106 cm 1 = 79-79.9 cm 2 = 75-85 cm
1 = 88-97 cm 2 = under 75 cm 3 = 65-75 cm
2 = 79-88 cm 4 = under 65 cm
3 = 70-79 cm
4 = under 70 cm
Sorts:
A1, A2, A3
B1, B2, B3
C1, C2, C3
selected, damaged
and only for Polish :
Syrena 1 and 2 (as special qualities)
I, II, III, IV
damaged
Colours:
exexdark, ex dark,
medium pale, expale
Dark, medium,
pale, expale
Light silvery, medium silvery,
dark silvery, light medium,
dark, pale, mixed
The middle of the back (the grot ) forms the darkest zone.

Refinement

Jackets made from several differently colored blue fox skins (2011)

As with other foxes, the dressing is done when the fur is peeled off round, not cut open.

In addition to the natural-colored utilization, the blue fox fur is ideal for coloring in all fashion colors, mainly for the textile industry in the respective fabric colors of the season, due to its light color, up to white, and the even fur surface . Plain colors in natural shades as well as all fantasy nuances up to black are produced as requested. Double dyes based on lead enable color play between upper and lower hair. For color tones in the middle range from metal complex dyes, the heat resistance required for this is achieved by chroming the leather. Dark nuances can be produced with good coverage with oxidizing dyes, usually a chrome potash stain serves as the basis . Pastel deviations are created with acid dyes from the alizarin range for reasons of authenticity .

The blueing, also called whitening, should only be carried out to a limited extent. When exposed to strong light, especially in high mountains, the hair fades or yellows relatively quickly and is then in unsightly contrast to the original tint of the clothing that has not come into contact with the light. Completely natural goods are considerably less sensitive to sunlight.

There were refinements similar to blue foxes on red fox , white fox , American opossum fur , hare , rabbit , flying squirrel and lynx fur .

processing

"Silverluchs" colored blue fox coat, mix with second type of fur, with metallic nappa leather (1980)

The processing does not differ significantly from that of other noble fox species, see above all the processing and use of silver fox fur and arctic fox fur , for the production of the once so popular animal-shaped fur scarves The work of a red fox necklace .

Blue fox skins are processed into all kinds of fur clothing, always mainly for trimmings, trimmings, scarves, sleeves and fur necklaces. In Western Europe, the pelts are still mainly used for trimmings on ready-made fabrics and small parts, until about the 1970s more often, still occasionally today, for coats and jackets, and since the introduction of the fur sewing machine before 1900 often also in the fur- saving galoning technique .

With the so-called skipping , the shape of the skins can be changed as desired. Here, the skins are made into any desired length through narrow V or A-shaped cuts at the expense of the width, up to a floor-length evening coat.

In times when sheared and plucked furs were current, foxes were sheared again and again for this look without any major commercial success. As with other types of fur, shorn fox skins are usually given the suffix “velvet” or “soft”, meaning velvet fox or soft fox . The recommended shear height for blue foxes is around 14 to 18 millimeters.

In 1965, the fur consumption for a fur board sufficient for a blue fox coat was given as 14 to 16 pieces of larger fur and 17 to 20 pieces of smaller fur (so-called coat “body” ). A board with a length of 112 centimeters and an average width of 150 centimeters and an additional sleeve section was used as the basis. This corresponds roughly to a fur material for a slightly exhibited coat of clothing size 46 from 2014. The maximum and minimum fur numbers can result from the different sizes of the sexes of the animals, the age groups and their origin. Depending on the type of fur, the three factors have different effects.

As with most types of fur, the blue fox uses every part of its fur. Fox pieces, fox sponges and fox paw panels are made from the fur residues that fall off during processing. The main place for the recycling of the fur residues in Europe is Kastoria in Greece and the smaller town Siatista, which is nearby . These semi-finished products are for the most part re-exported and then made into fur linings , jackets, coats and trimmings. Hood trimmings are made from the tails, they also serve as pendants for key rings, bags, etc., and also as boas in appropriate fashion .

numbers

American entertainer Liberace's Christmas
costume (1981)
  • In 1927 , blue fox skins are listed separately for the first time in the Canadian statistics, with 119 pieces. They achieved an average price of $ 21.18. The next year it was 208 pieces at $ 23.60 each.
  • In 1986 , wild catches from a population of around 140,000 to 160,000 animals in North America resulted in an annual fur attack of 40,000 to 50,000 fur, including around 15,000 from Canada. No incidence figures were known for the then USSR.
  • In 2007 , the following quantities were traded from Scandinavia: blue fox 1,214,000 skins, blue shadow / white blue fox 150,500 skins, silver blue fox ( bluefrost fox ) 475,000 skins (source: Oslo Fur Auctions).
  • At the end of November 2015 , Finland's Fur Traders offered 80,000 frozen, untreated blue fox tails, each for 0.60 euros.
World production
Blue fox White foxes source
1864 6,500 85,000 Heinrich Lomer
1900 20,000 90,000 Paul Larisch / Joseph Schmidt
1910 11,000 83,000 Alexander Tuma
1923/24 38,000 160,000 Emil Brass
1930 23,000 170,000 IPA - International Fur Exhibition Leipzig
1950 94,000 140,000 Dr. Lübsdorf (In: Das Pelzgewerbe )
" In addition 8,000 arctic foxes "
1975/76 2,017,420 Arthur C. Prentice :

annotation

  1. The specified comparative values ​​( coefficients ) are the result of comparative tests by furriers and tobacco shops with regard to the degree of apparent wear and tear. The figures are ambiguous; in addition to the subjective observations of shelf life in practice, there are also influences from tanning and finishing as well as numerous other factors in each individual case. More precise information could only be determined on a scientific basis. The division was made in steps of 10 percent each. The most durable types of fur according to practical experience were set to 100 percent.

See also

Commons : Blue Foxskin  - Collection of images, videos, and audio files
Wiktionary: Blue fox fur  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. a b c d Dr. Paul Schöps u. a .: The arctic foxes . In Das Pelzgewerbe, Volume XII New Series, 1961 No. 1, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin a. a., pp. 5–19 (secondary source)
  2. a b c d e f g Fritz Schmidt : The book of the fur animals and fur . FC Mayer Verlag, Munich 1970, pp. 203-213
  3. J. Szumann: Newborn arctic foxes in the white coat . From: Brühl July / August 1968, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, pp. 10–11
  4. a b c A. Ginzel: Refinement. Blue Fox - then and now . In: Die Pelzwirtschaft , CB-Verlag Carl Boldt, Issue 1, December 1986, p. 19.
  5. a b c d e Christian Franke / Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel's Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . 10. revised and supplemented new edition, Rifra-Verlag Murrhardt, pp. 136-138
  6. Dr. Heinrich Dathe , Dr. Paul Schöps, with the collaboration of 11 specialists: Fur Animal Atlas . VEB Gustav Fischer Verlag Jena, 1986, pp. 131-133
  7. Dr. Paul Schöps; Dr. H. Brauckhoff, Stuttgart; K. Häse, Leipzig, Richard König , Frankfurt / Main; W. Straube-Daiber, Stuttgart: The durability coefficients of fur skins in Das Pelzgewerbe , Volume XV, New Series, 1964, No. 2, Hermelin Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt / Main, Leipzig, Vienna, pp. 56–58
  8. Paul Schöps, Kurt Häse: The fineness of the hair - the fineness classes . In: Das Pelzgewerbe Vol. VI / New Series, 1955 No. 2, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, pp. 39–40
  9. Bruno Schier : Ways and forms of the oldest fur trade . Archive for fur studies Volume 1, Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Frankfurt am Main, 1951, pp. 57–58. Table of contents .
  10. ^ Richard Davey: Furs and Fur Garments . The International Fur Store and The Roxburghe Press, London 1895 ?, p. 82
  11. Elizabeth Ewing: Fur in Dress . BT Batsford Ltd, London 1981, p. 151
  12. a b Department of Agriculture of the United States of America (ed.): The blue fox on Alaska. In: “Die Pelzkonfektion”, Volume 2, No. 1, Berlin January 1926, pp. 42–46.
  13. Arthur Samet: Pictorial Encyclopedia of Furs . Arthur Samet (Book Division), New York 1950, pp. 226–229 (Eng.)
  14. a b Greater Germany's fur skins and their processing . 27. Continued, In: Kürschner-Zeitung , 59th volume no. 43, Verlag Alexander Duncker, Leipzig, December 1, 1942, pp. 254-255
  15. Gerhard Heinrich Buse: The whole of the plot . Erfurt 1801, p. 27 (based on the secondary source Schöps Die Polarfüchse , see there)
  16. n .: From the "fur fashion" of the Eskimos . In: "Pelzhandel", 3rd year, March 1927, Sächsische Verlagsgesellschaft, Leipzig, p. 154
  17. Anna Municchi: Ladies in Furs 1900-1940 . Zanfi Editori, Modena 1992, p. 129 (English) ISBN 88-85168-86-8
  18. Emil Brass: From the realm of fur . Publishing house of the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin 1911, pp. 465–468
  19. ^ Marie Louise Steinbauer, Rudolf Kinzel: Marie Louise Pelze . Steinbock Verlag, Hannover 1973, p. 118
  20. Dr. Dieter Wieland: Organization of the tobacco market . CB-Verlag Carl Boldt, Berlin, Frankfurt 1972, pp. 100-102. ISBN 3-920731-01-8
  21. Michael Abilon: Excellence Through Generations . In: Kopenhagen Fur News , September 2017, p. 15.
  22. Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. A - technical knowledge. XXII. Tape. Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1949. Keyword blue fox colored
  23. Jochen Sager: Troubles . In: Die Pelzwirtschaft 11/1989, CB-Verlag Carl Boldt, December 5, 1989, p. 4.
  24. Paul Schöps u. a .: The material requirements for fur clothing . In: Das Pelzgewerbe Vol. XVI / New Series 1965 No. 1, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin a. a., pp. 7-12. Note: The information for a body was only made to make the types of fur easier to compare. In fact, bodies were only made for small (up to about muskrat size ) and common types of fur, and also for pieces of fur . The following dimensions for a coat body were taken as a basis: body = height 112 cm, width below 160 cm, width above 140 cm, sleeves = 60 × 140 cm.
  25. ^ A b Arthur C. Prentice: A Candid View of the Fur Industry . Publishing Company Ltd., Bewdley, Ontario 1976, p. 199 (total), 254 (Canada) (Eng.)
  26. Finland's Fur Traders: November newsletter from Finland's Fur Traders . Pietarsaari November 28, 2015.
  27. Paul Cubaeus, Alexander Tuma: The whole of Skinning . 2nd revised edition, A. Hartleben's Verlag, Vienna, Leipzig 1911. p. 105