chamois

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Window cloth made of chamois leather

As chamois leather (Chamois) are leather designated by tanning with tanning agents are prepared on the basis of oxidizable fats. Although the temperature of the skin's shrinkage is only slightly increased during chamois tanning, one can speak of real tanning, as the collagen fiber structure is cross-linked and the tannins are irreversibly bound.

Chamois leather jacket

The dehaired pelts are saturated with oil by mechanically incorporating fish oil or fish oil into fulling mills. The fat, with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, oxidizes inside the skin and thereby develops its tanning effect. Is removed before the actual tanning in wild skins (venison, chamois) either clearing stage or after the pre-tanning the grain layer, chamois is a suede .

After the oxidation of the Trane, the excess tannin is washed out with soda solutions and surfactants. The leathers are dried, staked and sanded. Coloring is mostly done using the brush process, often with solutions of vegetable dyes, which results in the typical surface color with an uncolored meat side.

In Germany, the hides of all ungulates are used (various types of deer, sheep, goats, game), and cattle hides must be split beforehand. In the USA and France, the term is used exclusively for the split-off meat side of sheepskins that are purely tanned. Chamoisskins were originally used , hence the name " chamois leather" (Chamois is the French word for chamois ).

There are two variants:

  • Old Hemic - tanning only with oil
  • Neusämisch - pre-tanning with formaldehyde , then main tanning with oil.

Chamois leather is mainly used for traditional costume clothing. A rawhide often used for this is red deer (deerskin). Due to the great softness, washability, sweat and alkali resistance as well as the antiallergenic effect, it is suitable for use in orthopedics. Because of its softness and porosity chamois leather is also known as chamois used for cleaning purposes, and for example in restoration workshops used. The good insulating effect is an advantage when processing into fine gloves.