Gold embroidery
When gold embroidery a will stick form designated by the embroidering with gold threads ornaments are applied to a textile support. It is mainly used in the manufacture of trimmings and vestments used liturgical vestments.
Gold embroidery is the most precious form of embroidery alongside pearl embroidery. Besides needle painting, it is the most artistically and technically demanding, as it places high demands on the skill and training of the stickers.
Gold embroidery is divided into four different basic techniques:
- the creation or attachment work ,
- the cantilla embroidery executed with gold bouillon ,
- the blasting work and
- the piercing work .
During the laying work , roving threads and cords, often for the border of an area-filling pattern, are placed individually or exactly next to each other with overlay stitches and fixed. The ends of the cords are pulled through the embroidery base.
In cantilla embroidery , the cantilla is threaded onto the working thread and sewn onto the substrate, often over an insert, so that a relief is created. The cantilla only comes to rest on the top, the sewing thread also passes through the back.
During the blasting work , a gold or silver thread is passed back and forth over a base, which is attached to the edge of the base by a thread running back and forth on the back. Blasting work is mainly used for the embroidery of gala uniforms (e.g. for the diplomatic service) and for elaborate pieces of costume.
Finally, during the piercing work , the gold thread runs both on the top and on the bottom of the carrier, so that the pattern appears on both sides.
The gold embroidery is often decorated with sequins , precious stones , pearls , glass beads or metal foils .
Another technique of gold embroidery is Or Nué ( shaded gold ). With this type of stick, the gold thread is attached to the carrier material with a silk thread . The difference in the distance between the silk threads ensures that the gold thread is more or less covered. This leads to a play of light and shadow between color and gold.
literature
- Joseph Braun: Hints for making and decorating the paraments. Herder, Freiburg 1904, p. 147, digitized
- Antonia Lomny: The art and craft of goldwork. Simon & Schuster, Pymble, NSW 2004, ISBN 0-7318-1217-4
- Franziska, Karl & Georg R. Rettenbacher: Gold bonnets and related costume bonnets. GuTverlag, Munich 2002, ISBN 3-00-009075-4