Trimmings

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Fringes and lambrequins

Passaments (from the French passement , border, trim, trimmings; a noun to passer, to pass, which in the sense of this article means something like pulling along) is a collective name for decorative braids, such as decorative ribbons , woven borders , fringed borders , cords , braids , Tassels , flounces , lace of all kinds, covered buttons and the like.

You can no more function to decorate clothing , upholstery, lampshades, curtains and other home textiles applied to.

Passament: origin and use

Originally, passements were only textiles made from (precious) metal wires, i.e. braids and braids . The production method of these original metal knitted fabrics had a major influence on lace production , because with trimmings it was possible to produce a figural textile without having to rely on a substrate. The counterpart is the embroidery , here the base is necessary. The same principle is used in lace manufacture.

Cords, tassels and the like come into the trimmers' trade via metal wire, because they used to be largely made of metal wire. In the case of uniforms in particular , the passaments were made of metal for a long time.

The partly exclusive use of fibers, as it happens occasionally today, is only a subsequent development and actually separates the trimmings from its original material. Today the term includes almost everything that was used to decorate clothes.

Job description: trimmers, trimmings

Manufacturing machine

Trimmings are made by the trimmers (also trimmers and trimmers ; formerly also posementers, braid makers, ribbon makers, ribbon weavers, trimmers, brämel makers, breisers, breislers, gorlers, gorl sewers, belt makers, button makers, tassel makers, veils makers, lace makers, lace makers ; French passementier ) and with rope machines , braiding machines or knitting machines . The heyday of the profession was in the 19th century. Few small factories and manufactories still work by hand and with historical machines. The trimmings chair is essentially the same as a loom , but it is smaller because it is only intended for narrow goods, and it is equipped with special devices for producing patterns, often with the jacquard mechanism .

In Austria , trimmings are run as a separate branch within the textile manufacturing industry . From the 19th to the end of the 20th century, the center of trimmings and effects production in Europe was in the Ore Mountains around the mining town of Annaberg-Buchholz . This homework was also widespread in the Basel region ( Baselbiet , Fricktal, Hotzenwald ); in several museums, e.g. B. in the local museums of Sissach and Görwihl , the ribbon production is demonstrated with original automatic looms. Here it also found its way into literature, for example in the works of Jonas Breitenstein .

Examples

See also

literature

  • Fritz Christl: Decorate and decorate with ribbons and braids . Rosenheimer Verlagshaus, Rosenheim 1985, ISBN 3-475-52486-4 .
  • Catherine Donzel et al. a .: L'art de la passementerie et a contribution à l'histoire de la monde et de la décoration . Édition Chêne, Paris 1992, ISBN 2-85108-776-2 .
  • Eduin Siegel: On the history of the trimmings industry with special consideration for the Erzgebirge trimmings industry . Graser, Annaberg 1892 ( digitized version )
  • Emil Kumsch: Passaments of the XVI. – XIX. Century . Kunstgewerbemuseum Dresden / Kunstgewerbe-Museum Leipzig, Von Stengel & Markert, Dresden 1892, OCLC 39112570 .
  • Bernd Lahl : Barbara Uthmann . Your life, your city and your time . Chemnitzer Verlag, Chemnitz 2014, ISBN 978-3-944509-10-5 (Barbara Uthmann was an entrepreneur and publisher of trimmings and braids in the Erzgebirge).
  • Fritz Oberlinger: The trimmings arts and crafts in the 19th century . [JC Kriegersche Buchhandlung], Oberlinger Verlag, Kassel 1926 OCLC 72592015
  • Werner Walther-Alispach: The silk ribbon as a life ribbon - 48 years in ribbon weaving. The development of ribbon weaving from country trimmings to factory operations (= sources and research on the history and regional studies of the canton of Baselland , volume 7). Verlag des Kantons Basel-Landschaft, Liestal 2000, ISBN 3-85673-267-5 .
  • Emilie Forcart-Respinger : Basel and the silk ribbon . Birkhäuser, Basel 1942, DNB 579395766 .
  • Jörgen Martin: Erzgebirge trimmings industry, its eventful path into the 21st century . 1st edition 2013
  • Rudi Palla : Disappeared work. A thesaurus of the lost professions . Eichborn, Frankfurt am Main 1995, ISBN 3-8218-4443-4 , p. 253-255 .
  • Otto Lueger: Trimmings, that . In: Economic Encyclopedia . tape 115 . Pauli, Berlin, p. 622 ( zeno.org - 1773-1858).

Web links

Commons : Trimmings  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Posament  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations