Edge of the hand (clothing)
The edge of the hand is an additional, clearly visible seam on the outer edge of the lapel of the jacket and vest , on pockets and sleeve slits . It is done in the manner of a simple lockstitch along the turned-over edge seams (front edges, lapels, etc.), originally as a hand seam.
The edge of the hand as a visible fixation of the folded edge seam is also known as a tailor's edge , tailor's hand edge or AMF (the abbreviation of the sewing machine manufacturer American Machine and Foundry Company , today: AMF Reece), but better known as "hand stitch". It originally occurs in bespoke tailoring . In addition to other features, it can be a sign of high-quality manufacturing, since in the case of less well-made jackets, the seam of the trimmings on the lapel is simply ironed over to the pivot point and inwards at the tapping point .
Around 1930 AMF developed a sewing machine for hand sewing with a floating needle with an eye in the middle of the length and two points that is passed back and forth within the machine. The sewing thread for this type of seam is finite and typically adjustable in length between 40 and 90 cm.