Shirt without seam

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A shirt without a seam is a shirt from Steinhude that is woven in one piece, including long sleeves, buttonholes, collar and cuffs, without any parts of it being sewn or connected. This shirt was made around 1728 by the 18-year-old weaver Johann Henrich Bühmann (probably 1709–1773) from fine linen . Today the shirt is on display in the Steinhude Fishermen and Weavers Museum. The shirt was examined in detail in the winter of 2014. The order of manufacture could be deciphered, but the aids that the young weaver used for the cuffs on the neck and sleeves remain unclear. Bühmann never revealed the secret of his work.

history

The shirt without seam attracted particular attention from the 1850s, when seamlessly woven garments were presented as news from the increasingly automated weaving mills from 1805 at the first World Exhibition in London in 1851 and received a great response in the daily press, but this was already over 100 years earlier Steinhude was known. The seamless shirt from Steinhude was considered an example of the extraordinary skill of Westphalian weavers and was then exhibited at the following World Exhibition in Paris in 1855 .

In fact, there was more than one shirt without a seam in Steinhude: The doctor and pharmacist AC Ernsting, who also worked as a local researcher, reports from 1765–1767 about two Steinhude master weavers, “the whole man's shirts, with armrests, collars, queders , buttonholes, Lozenges and other accessories, completely woven from one piece without nath, which you could put on straight away. ” According to this, the first shirt goes back to Johann Henrich Brethauer (1697–1766) in house no. 63 (later the dyer's house) Co-founded weavers' guild in Steinhude. This first shirt hadn't turned out very well and Brethauer took it to the grave as a death gown. Brethauer gave the second to Count Albrecht Wolfgang .

AC Ernsting wrote the report almost 40 years after Johann Henrich Bühmann had woven two more shirts at the age of 18. The large time lag may be the reason for historical inaccuracies, for example the age of the young weaver is given differently. After checking the sources, the fishing and weaving museum indicates the age as 18 years. According to Ernsting, the shirts were better than the previous ones from Bredthauer. One of them remained in the family and was handed over to the museum, the second had Bühmann given to Count Albrecht and thus forced his acceptance into the weavers' guild. Finally, a fifth shirt was woven by Wilhelm Battermann in 1875. There is an account book in the fishing and weaving museum that shows that Johann Henrich Bühmann was subsequently accepted into the weavers' guild on April 25, 1728, while Count Friedrich Christian was still alive . This suggests that Ernsting was wrong when naming the count. There are only 3 months between the confirmation of the founding of the guild in January 1728 and the subsequent admission of Bühmann.

The reports on the Steinhuder shirt without seam inspired the local workers' education association in the early 1930s to create the folk piece by Hans Dietrich's masterpiece or shirt without seam.

The manufacture of a shirt without a seam has kept people busy for thousands of years. Even in the Bible it is stated after the crucifixion of Jesus that he wore an undergarment without a seam ( Joh 19:23  EU ). 57 relics of this type alone are known, including the Holy Rock in Trier. From August 27 to November 29, 2015, there will be a special exhibition dedicated to the shirt without a seam in the Steinhude Fishermen and Weavers Museum, and the work will be documented in a blog.

In 1702, the Fife weaver Henry Inglis created a seamless linen shirt that is still preserved today. The shirt was presumably provided with symbols and labels at a later date; among other things, it bears the inscription "For the weavers of Dumfermline 1702" . It is now owned by the Dunfermline Museum. Likewise, in 1770 a weaver in Kirriemuir is said to have made three shirts without a needle prick.

From the end of the 18th century, the production of seamless textiles was discussed several times, for example in 1824 bags, clothes and shirts from France, Swabia, Bavaria and Scotland are mentioned.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c The shirt without seam, excerpt from the book "Steinhude from 1300 to 2000" by Rudi Diersche, Steinhude-am-Meer.de
  2. ^ A shirt without a seam is a "unique piece", Schaumburger Zeitung, November 5, 2012
  3. ↑ Eva Jordan-Fahrbach, Sandra Kilb: "Shirt without a seam", spin on! German language supplement to the Spin Off magazine. Summer 2015 edition, pp. 5–7.
  4. ↑ Will the Weber's secret be revealed ?, Hannoversche Allgemeine Zeitung, November 28, 2014
  5. ^ Official Catalog of the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations, London 1851, Spicer Brothers, Clowes & Sons. Class 20: Articles of Clothing, for Immediate, Personal, or Domestic use: 76 Newton, FB, Manchester, Inv. - Registered seamless coat, the body and sleaves bein in one entire piece. in Google Book Search
  6. ↑ As early as October 27, 1843, a patent for a shirt without a seam was registered in Great Britain under number 49 by the company John Biggs & Sons from Leicester . Referenced in nationalarchives.gov.uk , JC Robertsond (Editor): Mechanics Magazine. Volume 39, published by James Boundsall, London July – December 1843 ( limited preview in Google Book Search).
  7. ↑ A shirt without a neckline. In: Fürther Tageblatt. 1851, page 300 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  8. ↑ Chr. Ed. Langethal: History of German Agriculture. From the Thirty Years' War to the end of the 18th century. Volume 2, Friedrich Luden, Jena 1856 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  9. ^ Nicolaus Hocker: The big industry of Rhineland and Westphalia: their geography, history and statistics. Verlag von Quandt & Handel, Leipzig 1867 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  10. ^ Palatine sheets for history, poetry and entertainment. 1855 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  11. ↑ Bruno Hildebrand (editor): Yearbooks for Economics and Statistics, Volume 16, printed and published by Friedrich Mauke, Jena 1871 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  12. ↑ God's last shirt, Süddeutsche Zeitung, April 13, 2012
  13. ↑ Material for story (s)
  14. ↑ The unseen artefacts of Tayside and Fife, The Courier & Advertiser (Fife Edition), March 11, 2015, pressreader.com
  15. ↑ Annals of Dunfermline, AD 1069-1878, Ebenezer Henderson. AD 1701-1801 - Part 1, 1702. — WEAVING on electricscotland.com
  16. ^ Executive Documents, The House of Representatives, Third Session of The Fortieth Congress, 1868-'69, US Government Printing Office, 1869 ( limited preview in Google Book Search).
  17. ↑ Karl Ritter von Scherzer: World industries: studies during a princely trip through the British factory districts. Maier, 1880 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  18. ↑ Stephan Edlem von Keeß (editor): Appendix and register for the representation of the factory and trade in the Austrian imperial state, excellent in technical relation. Volume 4. Anton Strauss, Vienna 1824 ( limited preview in Google book search).