No-hands rest
No-Hands Rest ( English for 'hands-free rest') describes a climbing position in the wall where no hand strength is required to hold and the climber can rest his arms and hands to regenerate. It is primarily a term from climbing technology . However, in the context of climbing tactics, it is important as a resting position.
Meaning of no-hands rests
A common problem with climbing is arm and hand fatigue, which can make climbing much more difficult. On easier alpine tours, there are often places such as small heels where relaxation (e.g. shaking out, loosening the arm muscles) is possible. In modern sport climbing , with its more difficult and steep routes, this is rarely the case. Most of the time, at least one hand is needed to hold it, which puts a constant strain on the muscles. It is therefore particularly important in such routes to find climbing positions that allow letting go of the rock with both hands for the purpose of recovery.
Usually, however, more important are resting positions in which only one hand is relaxed (with the least possible strain on the other): they are usually sufficient and occur much more frequently.
If the climber is on a hook or another securing point , resting on the rope (letting the belaying partner hold it) can be an alternative. However, this puts a strain on the safety chain, so the rope and hook are not only used for securing , but also to facilitate climbing. Such an ascent is not recognized according to the requirements of red point climbing. With no-hands-rest, on the other hand, the climber does not need any support from the safety chain, so that the red dot criteria are met.
Climbing possibilities
For example, in intersections or chimneys , you can do without your arms entirely by choosing the right steps, by spreading both legs on the opposite walls or leaning your back. Even in corners and even in walls, it is sometimes possible, in a crouched position, to find suitable handles or wall structures (e.g. rock cavities, small roof-like protrusions or knee-wide cracks) with the thighs or knees so that the hands cannot grip have to hold. Sometimes a heel hook behind a vertical edge is a good way to free your hands.
literature
- Michael Hoffmann: Alpine curriculum 2B: Climbing - technique, tactics, psyche . BLV Buchverlag, Munich 2010, ISBN 978-3-8354-0535-6 , p. 94-95 .