Climbing technique

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Illustration from a textbook from 1924 ( Ernst Platz ): Depiction of the then common climbing technique in brittle rock

Climbing technique describes a certain personal performance requirement necessary for climbing. The climbing technique is during climbing always interacts with other personal performance requirements ( psyche , strategy / tactics, fitness and physique ), and with non-personal, situational conditions. Based on the general sporting technique definitions by Weineck 2007 and Schnabel et al. 1997, climbing technique is defined as a characteristic and practical solution method for certain climbing-specific movement tasks that has been developed in practice. Many practical solutions to similar climbing movement tasks result in an ideal basic solution pattern that is difficult to find in climbing, an algorithm inherent in movement . In this sense, the term climbing technique means the ideal model of a certain climbing movement. Climbing techniques answer the elementary, more or less conscious question “How do I solve a movement problem?” Climbing techniques are therefore relevant for every type of climbing. The higher the difficulty, the more important and differentiated the climbing technique factor becomes for a successful problem solution. For this reason, sport climbing with its maximum difficulty makes the greatest demands on the climbing technique of free climbing .

Demarcation

Definition of terms

The term climbing technique must be distinguished from the term technical climbing . Technical climbing describes a certain type of climbing, a form of play in which artificial (technical) aids may be used. In order to be able to climb technically, you need the climbing technique (within the meaning of this article) of technical climbing.

Delimitation of content

Climbing in most cases includes the movement activity of the climber and that of the belayer, who protects the climber from a fall or dangerous impact with the rope or when bouldering with his hands (mocking). Both activities take place in the context of climbing. For this reason, as part of a broad definition of climbing technology, safety technology can also be included. In this sense, for example, the book by Köstermeyer on the subject of climbing technology comprises two parts: safety technology and the actual climbing technology. In the context of this article, a narrower definition is used which only includes the movement activity of the climbing actor and excludes that of the belayer. In this sense, safety-related actions only play a role if they are carried out by the climber while climbing (for example, the technique of attaching express sets ).

Climbing technology is not only used in mountain climbing. It is also found outside in the form of:

  • Speleological climbing technique: climbing technique within the framework of speleology , cave climbing,
  • Climbing technique in other sporting activities : For example, pole climbing.
  • Industrial climbing technique: The climbing techniques that are used by industrial climbers in the context of work activities .

All of these forms are not intended to be the subject of this article.

Classification of climbing technique according to climbing disciplines

In climbing in the context of mountain sports , different disciplines or forms of play can be distinguished, which have very different technical requirements. Climbing technique is often used synonymously with the technique of free climbing, that is, the technique of moving on the rock only with your own hands and feet. Other authors use the term climbing technique for other disciplines such as ice climbing. Correctly, the term climbing technique must apply to all sporting activities that are called climbing. The climbing technique can be divided into various logical categories, some of which include several disciplines or sub-disciplines and which are limited by similar movement problems and solution patterns:

  • Free climbing technique: The climbing technique that is used to move only with the help of your own body. It is in sport climbing and its sub-disciplines (eg. As bouldering and Buildering ), used in the Saxon free climbing and classic climbing.
  • Ice and mixed climbing technique: The climbing technique with the help of ice tools , crampons and ice ax . It is used in ice sport climbing , ice climbing , mixed climbing , dry tooling and classic climbing.
  • Technique of technical climbing . The climbing technique of climbing with the help of technical aids ( rock hooks , ropes , rope ladders, etc.). It is used in big wall climbing and in classic climbing.
  • Via ferrata technique: The climbing technique for climbing via ferrata .

Free climbing technique

The free climbing technique (often simply called climbing technique for short) is about solution methods for moving on rocks, on art walls or on other structures such as walls and building facades. According to the rules of free climbing, only your own body may be used. The actual free climbing technique in the sporting sense is then required within mountain sports, especially in sport climbing in all its forms of play and sub-disciplines. In addition, free climbing techniques are also used in classic mountaineering as part of traditional climbing. Since sport climbing is practiced both as a popular sport and as a professional competitive sport, a large number of techniques and technical elements have developed. No other climbing technique has developed such a comprehensive differentiation into various individual techniques.

The development of elementary climbing techniques

Piaztechnik at a Rissverschneidung, 1960

Free climbing techniques are learned and required in a simple form as climbing technique in everyday life by everyone, they are part of everyday motor skills. Since climbing is a basic form of human locomotion, it begins at an early stage in child development and, according to Rieder and Winter, takes place as follows: Even before the first year of life, the child begins to climb out of the crawling movement. It climbs out of bed and onto objects and uses all its limbs to get up for its first attempts at climbing. From the beginning of the second to the third year of life (toddler age) it learns to climb over waist-high obstacles and to cope with stairs and the like with hands and feet. In the pre-school age of 3–6 years, climbing then exerts a great fascination. Climbing frames and walls have a very inviting character and are among the most popular play equipment. Through this extensive practice, the child expands his elementary climbing technique enormously and can finally climb the rope or the vertical climbing pole through coordinated arm and leg movements. For this reason, the beginner sport climber does not have to start from scratch. He can build on a repertoire of known climbing movement patterns.

Examples

Examples of special techniques in climbing are the various grip techniques: Depending on the shape of the grip and the direction of the load, the fingers can be set up, half-open or open, gripping the rock; special cases are gripping under and pincer . As a special leg technique in overhangs is Foothook ( heel hook , Toehook ) used. Piazen is important in cracks ; in chimneys and intersections, chiseling or spreading against the walls of the chimney is important. More advanced climbing techniques such as Dynamo , Egyptian and Figure of Four are usually only important in very difficult routes. As part of good climbing tactics, it is also important to recover from overload during a climbing route in order to gather new strength. Techniques for this are taking as little strenuous resting positions as possible - ideally no-hands rest  - in order to be able to shake hands and arms. The targeted taking and use of resting positions no longer falls under the term of climbing technique, but is part of climbing tactics.

literature

  • Peter Klein, Erich Schunk: Climbing . In: Praxisideen - Series of publications for exercise, play and sport . tape 14 . Hofmann, Schorndorf 2005, ISBN 3-7780-0141-8 .
  • Guido Köstermeyer, Ferdinand Tusker: Sport climbing. Technique and tactics training . 1st edition. Lochner Verlag, Munich 1997, ISBN 3-928026-15-1 , p. 1 .
  • Guido Köstermeyer: Climbing technique - safe and effective climbing . Books on Demand, 2002, ISBN 3-8311-4689-6 .
  • Hermann Rieder: Motor development and motor learning . In: Peter Röthig, Stefan Grössing (Eds.): Movement theory . 3. Edition. Limpert Verlag, Wiesbaden 1990, ISBN 3-7853-1503-1 , p. 55-104 .
  • Günther Schnabel, Dietrich Harre, Alfred Bode (eds.): Training science. Performance training competition . 2nd, heavily revised and improved study edition. Sportverlag, Berlin 1997, ISBN 3-328-00742-3 .
  • Pepi Stückl, Georg Sojer: Mountaineering. Textbook and guide for all types of mountaineering . 1st edition. Bruckmann Verlag, Munich, ISBN 3-7654-2586-9 .
  • Jürgen Weineck: Optimal training. Performance physiological training with a special focus on children and youth training . 15th, completely revised edition. Spitta Verlag, Balingen 2007, ISBN 978-3-938509-15-9 .
  • Reinhard Winter, Christian Hartmann: The motor development of humans from birth to old age . In: Kurt Meinel, Günther Schnabel (Ed.) Movement theory, sports motor skills. Outline of a theory of sports motor skills from an educational point of view . 9th, heavily revised edition. Sportverlag, Berlin 1998, ISBN 3-328-00820-9 , p. 237-350 .
  • Stefan Winter: Correct sport climbing . BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-405-16074-X .
  • Stefan Winter: Sport climbing with children and young people . 1st edition. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-405-15711-0 .
  • Michael Hoffmann: Alpine curriculum 2B: Climbing - technique, tactics, psyche . BLV Buchverlag, Munich 2010, ISBN 978-3-8354-0535-6 .

Web links

Wikibooks: Climbing / climbing technology  - learning and teaching materials
Commons : Climbing Technique  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Günther Schnabel, Dietrich Harre, Alfred Bode (ed.): Training science. Performance training competition . 2nd, heavily revised and improved study edition. Sportverlag, Berlin 1997, ISBN 3-328-00742-3 , p. 45 .
  2. ^ Stefan Winter: Sport climbing with children and adolescents . 1st edition. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-405-15711-0 , p. 10 .
  3. ↑ Jürgen Weineck: Optimal training. Performance physiological training with a special focus on children and youth training . 15th, completely revised edition. Spitta Verlag, Balingen 2007, ISBN 978-3-938509-15-9 , pp. 835 .
  4. ^ A b Günther Schnabel, Dietrich Harre, Alfred Bode (ed.): Training science. Performance training competition . 2nd, heavily revised and improved study edition. Sportverlag, Berlin 1997, ISBN 3-328-00742-3 , p. 102 .
  5. ↑ a b Stefan Winter: Correct sport climbing . BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-405-16074-X , p. 30 .
  6. ↑ Peter Klein, Erich Schunk: Climbing . In: Praxisideen - Series of publications for exercise, play and sport . tape 14 . Hofmann, Schorndorf 2005, ISBN 3-7780-0141-8 , p. 26 .
  7. ↑ Guido Köstermeyer: Climbing technique - safe and effective climbing . Books on Demand, 2002, ISBN 3-8311-4689-6 , pp. 5 .
  8. ^ Pepi Stückl, Georg Sojer: Mountaineering. Textbook and guide for all types of mountaineering . 1st edition. Bruckmann Verlag, Munich, ISBN 3-7654-2586-9 , p. 148 .
  9. ↑ a b Hermann Rieder: Motor development and motor learning . In: Peter Röthig, Stefan Grössing (Eds.): Movement theory . 3. Edition. Limpert Verlag, Wiesbaden 1990, ISBN 3-7853-1503-1 , p. 55-104 (60) .
  10. ↑ Reinhard Winter, Christian Hartmann: The motor development of humans from birth to old age . In: Kurt Meinel, Günther Schnabel (Ed.) Movement theory, sports motor skills. Outline of a theory of sports motor skills from an educational point of view . 9th, heavily revised edition. Sportverlag, Berlin 1998, ISBN 3-328-00820-9 , p. 237-350 .
  11. ^ Tillmann Hepp, Wolfgang Güllich, Gerhard Heidorn: Fascination Sport Climbing. A textbook for theory and practice . Heyne Verlag, Munich 1992, ISBN 3-453-05440-7 , p. 72 .