Samit
Samit is a bond for fabric that was developed in the 4th century and is no longer used since the mid-16th century. It is a twill composite weave. Up until the 12th century, only six warp threads form a unit for three-ply twill . The name Samit is derived from the Greek word hexamitos six threads .
Samit fabrics consist of two warp thread systems (main and binding warp) and two or more weft thread systems . The main chain on the top of the fabric is not visible. It just separates the shots. The binding chain, on the other hand, binds the weft with the color required for the pattern in three or four-string twill.
Since this weave was mainly used for the production of silk fabrics , Samit is often referred to directly as silk fabric. Monochromatic silk seeds with scratched- looking patterns (incised silk, "incised" silk) can be detected from the early 7th century. They acquired special significance for products in liturgical use. The scoring lines are created by a complicated change between upper and lower shots. The lines that appear to be scratched and form the pattern are created at the point of change. Fabrics with large-format repetitions of patterns flourished in the late 10th and 11th centuries, and small-scale patterns still appear in the 12th century.
However, there are also woven fabrics in samite weave whose pattern-forming warp threads consist of white or dyed wool and the weft threads of white silk or those in which wool threads are mostly used for the pattern-forming weft thread system. They are therefore to be referred to as semi-silk fabrics.
Individual evidence
- ^ Leonie von Wilckens: The textile arts - From late antiquity to around 1500. CH Beck`sche Verlagsbuchhandlung (Oscar Beck), Munich 1991, ISBN 3-406-35363-0 , p. 18.
- ↑ Leonie von Wilckens: History of German Textile Art - From the late Middle Ages to the present. CH Beck`sche Verlagsbuchhandlung (Oscar Beck), Munich 1997, ISBN 3-406-41781-7 , p. 261.
- ↑ Elena Phipps: Looking at textiles: a guide to technical terms. J. Paul Getty Trust, Los Angeles 2011, ISBN 978-1-60606-080-3 , pp. 64/65.
- ↑ Ursula Strate, Angela Völker: The chasuble of St. Willigis from St. Stephan, today in the Episcopal Cathedral Diocesan Museum in Mainz. (PDF; 300 kB) (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on January 19, 2016 ; Retrieved November 24, 2014 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ^ Leonie von Wilckens: The textile arts - From late antiquity to around 1500. CH Beck`sche Verlagsbuchhandlung (Oscar Beck), Munich 1991, ISBN 3-406-35363-0 , p. 23/24
