Rope pull (climbing)
The cable is when climbing the climber in addition to the weight force of a force, climbing rope has to apply to when pulling the rope, the friction at the rock irregularities or securing points ( carbines to overcome). This force is greater, the more changes in direction occur in the course of the rope due to rock contact or securing points, and the more acute the deflection angle. In extreme cases, the rope pull can become so large that it is no longer possible to advance.
The size of the cable pull can be calculated using the Euler-Eytelwein formula for any arrangement of direction change points. The rope pull can be illustrated by an “effective rope weight”, which is always greater than or equal to the actual rope weight. This “effective rope weight” grows exponentially with the sum of all angles that arise when the climber creates a change of direction in the course of the rope.
"Early attachment errors" (at lower lying securing points) do not have as much effect as "late attachment errors", since the points higher up are preloaded with correspondingly more dead weight of the rope. As a consequence, straightening the course of the rope with longer quickdraws is particularly important if a lot of rope has already been spent.
See also
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Ulrich Leuthäusser: Physics of climbing ropes: fall factors, impact forces and rope drag. (pdf; 195 kB) 2011, accessed on January 18, 2011 (eng).