Shorebreak

Small shore break on a sandy beach

Shorebreak is a term used in surfer jargon for wave breaking , in which the waves break very briefly at shallow water near the shore.

Creation of the shore break

The shore break usually occurs with the ebb tide : Running water ensures low water levels, so that the waves hit the bottom earlier and break. The returning water from previous waves has a reinforcing effect. The time span between the build-up of the breaking wave and the breaking is very short.

hazards

Two aspects make the shore break more dangerous than other types of surf: In the case of a shore break, the force of the wave is distributed over a shorter distance than in the case of longer waves. Secondly, the water depth at the shore break is very shallow, so that, for example, a swimmer standing in the surf offers the waves a larger attack surface and grabs them. Breaking waves can be dangerous for surfers, especially on a stony (or gravel) bottom, because the waves throw them directly onto the bottom. Depending on the size of the shaft, this can lead to serious injuries to the spine and cervical trauma . Furthermore, there is a risk of undercurrent due to the running water of the ebb in combination with the running water of the waves.

Spots with shore break

The shore break is rare at German spots because of the moderate wave heights. In Europe, the French, Spanish and Portuguese Atlantic coasts are to be named as potential shore break coasts . The world's most violent shore break can be found on the beaches of Waimea Bay in Hawaii or The Wedge on Newport Beach in California. These waves can easily reach a height of 5 meters in a water depth of only 60 centimeters. The natural phenomenon of Shorebreak emanates a special fascination, which is therefore often the subject of artistic photos.

Bodyboarding in the shore break

Very experienced surfers and bodyboarders appreciate the shore break despite the dangers, as it is a special challenge. The moment the wave breaks, the distance to the beach is small. The risk that the bodyboard will break is higher on stony ground than on sandy ground such as on the French Atlantic coast. The risk of abrasions can be reduced by wearing a wetsuit .

Individual evidence

1. ↑ ^{a b c} What is actually meant by Shorebreak? Bodyboard24.de
2. ^ Dangers in coastal waters. DLRG