Appenzell alpine costume
The Appenzell traditional costume is one of the most famous men's costumes in Switzerland . It is worn by herdsmen in the Appenzellerland and, in a slightly different form, in Toggenburg on festive days such as the Alpaufzug or church fairs .
The easily recognizable costume consists essentially of bright yellow trousers, a white shirt, a scarlet vest and a wide-brimmed black hat. White knitted stockings and black buckled shoes are also worn.
The details are important:
- The trousers: yellow leather breeches for herdsmen, long brown trousers made of cloth or half linen for farmers. Both pants do not have a fly, but a square bib that is closed with buttons on the waistband (loading pants) .
- The trousers include a chüeli broscht (cool chest): black, leather suspenders with rich brass fittings with rosettes, cows and herdsmen.
- The shirt has a double breast , is decorated with white embroidery and has short puffed sleeves.
- The scarlet vest ( brooch or liibli ) worn openly has a small stand-up collar, embroidered lapels and two rows of silver buttons.
- The knitted stockings are tied below the knee with black leather straps.
- The shoes are heavy loafers with silver buckles.
- Instead of a tie, a red button with a gold-plated silver brooch is worn.
- The shredded dairy farmer , a large handkerchief printed with pictures and slogans , is folded into a triangle and worn around the waist with the yellow trousers.
- This includes a wide-brimmed, flower-adorned felt hat when driving cattle.
The costume includes jewelry that is unusually rich for men:
- a six to eight-fold silver watch chain , at the end decorated with old coins and miniature devices
- a gold-plated silver brooch on the collar button
- a wide silver finger ring with small cow figures (Sennäring)
- on the right ear a small golden trowel (ear-tip) . The Toggenburgers only wear these when going to the Alps.
Also for the Toggenburgers
- a silver necklace with a clock key and small cow figures
- a silver filigree brooch on the hat
Also indispensable are the silver- clad Lindauerli ( called Lendaueli in Innerrhoden ), a tobacco pipe with a lid and a tobacco pouch made of white leather with brass fittings on the round bottom, the so-called baking lid , which includes a (sometimes artfully braided) wire, the so-called Pfiifestier , which hangs decoratively from the owner's pockets on a leather cord and which is used to clean the Lindauerli .
The herdsman's costume developed in this form in the 19th century. It is still a living folk custom today without the support of a traditional costume club. The Toggenburg herdsman costume differs from both the Ausserrhoder and the Innerrhoder herdsman costume, but the differences in the men's costumes are quite small. No two costumes are alike, and few people know the differences between them.
In the two Appenzell half-cantons in particular, strict attention is still paid to the correct combination of men's clothing (and also women's clothing). This detailed retention is undoubtedly one of the reasons why this folk tradition in the Appenzellerland has been able to survive so deeply rooted to this day.
See also
source
- Franz Auf der Maur: Mountain Valleys of Switzerland. Birkhäuser, Basel 1986.
