Boyar hat
As Bojarenmützen usually are Murmolka (Мурмолка), plural Murmolki and Gorlatnaja ( Russian Горлатная шапка ) referred, high Russian headgear upscale items that you especially from the eponymous boyars was born. The boyars were a nobility below the rank of prince ( Knjas ) or tsar .
Typical of the name boyar hats are the cylindrical, stiff versions that become wider towards the top and have a flat cap. Many of the pictures show that the boyars also wore various other forms. Models that did not widen towards the top, including those that narrowed towards the top and did not have a firm footing. One feature, however, is that the headgear has a height that goes beyond the usual, purely practical dimension; on average it was a cubit high, about two inches.
Murmolka
The hat called Murmolka was apparently also available in all possible designs, narrowing towards the top or the bottom, or of uniform width. It was made of velvet or some other material. According to Kruse's description, like the ushanka (a general name for the usual Russian earflap cap), instead of the usual fur trimmings, it had two fur-trimmed earflaps and fur cuffs on the front and back that were held in place by buttons or eyelets.
As Murmolkami was in some places, in Novgorod , Pskov and the Government of St. Petersburg until the end of the 19th century called round fur hats that did not have ear flaps.
Gorlatnaya
The Gorlatnaja , the throat fur hat, was a particularly valuable fur hat in the 15th to 17th centuries. Until around 1900, the mostly reddish-spotted throat pieces of marten fur , especially sable fur , but also fox fur , especially black fox fur , were considered particularly valuable in Eastern European countries, they were mostly processed separately. It was also possible to use the inexpensive, partly similarly colored, but not so densely haired belly pieces. For the processing of the fur parts there were separate industries in various places in Macedonia, see the article Fur scraps . According to Kruse, the Gorlatnaja was even higher than the Murmolka, narrower below than above and made entirely of fur. The cap was made of velvet or fabric with gold and pearls and a silk tassel. According to Kruse, it was only worn by monarchs and members of the Council of State. On festive occasions, such as large audiences, the Junkers, nobles, state secretaries and guests also came in such hats. “Under Tsar Michael Feodorowitsch , these caps were kept on their heads, even in the presence of the Tsar, at audiences with foreign envoys and at meetings of the State Council, but under his successor they were kept in their hands.” When not worn it was often held in the crook of the arm with the left hand or used as a muff .
history
For the boyars from the 15th to 17th centuries, the high cap was a striking sign of their high social rank. The boyaryschni, the boyar wives, wore similarly high headgear, especially on festive occasions, but this was also the custom among many Eastern tribes.
In the middle of the 19th century, the murmolka was worn again by a small group of advocates of Slavophilism . This form of the high cap was probably no longer in general use.
See also
- Papacha , a similar, more general, Russian headdress
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b c EV Kireeva: Costume history. European costume from ancient times to the 20th century - MA ( История костюма. Европейский костюм от античности до XX века ). Moscow, Prosvescheniye 1976 (Russian).
- ↑ ЭСБЕ / Мурмолка ESBE / Murmolka . Brockhaus-Efron - Russian Universal Lexicon, Verlag FA Brokgauz, 1890–1907. Retrieved March 28, 2017.
- ^ A b [1] Heinrich Berghaus (Hsgr.): Annals of geography, ethnology and national studies . Grass, Barth & Company, Breslau and Oppeln, 1843. p. 58.
- ↑ [2] folk-costume.com: Murmolka (Russian). Retrieved April 2, 2017.