Cordovan (horse leather)
Cordovan leather is a special type of horse leather . The leather is very resistant and is used for leather shoes. The leather is very water-repellent due to its high fat content. In the case of greater temperature differences, it can have a whitish coating, which comes from the fat leaking from the leather . This can be polished off with a soft cloth.
The name is derived from the Spanish city of Cordoba , where this special processing of horse skins was first practiced.
Extraction
It is obtained exclusively from the back part of horse hides , the so-called shells or butts (croups). The yield is relatively small, only two oval pieces about the size of a DIN A3 sheet can be obtained per horse , which explains the high price in addition to the complex vegetable tanning . These areas of skin, also known as mirrors, are loosened from the surrounding leather after tanning.
They are stronger than the front area and therefore ideally suited as shoe material.
processing
While with calf leather the grain side serves as the outside, with Cordovan the carrion side is made into the top side. This initially rough side is processed until it forms a smooth and pore-free surface with a special sheen. During production, the leather is treated with oil recipes, among other things, and stored on glass panes to dry. Much of the work is done by hand.
The tanning process of this coveted leather takes about six months.
Cordovan leather has its focus in the United States, where its manufacturing process was perfected some time ago, while shoes made from this leather were less common in Europe. Cordovan men's shoes are therefore mainly made by North American shoemakers.