Shape ironing

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The article form ironing deals with the shaping of cut pieces and semi-finished garments in order to produce tailor-made clothing . This process is called dressage in tailoring .

In the tailoring were originally, with few exceptions, all the pattern pieces trained. Depending on the type of fabric, it was heavy physical work. The purpose of dressage was to shape the always straight material in a way that was appropriate for the body and processing. This required an iron , a tucker , water and physical strength.

Today there is little training, especially in fine men's tailoring. The main reasons for the simplification of this process are likely to be the costs as well as the lack of journeymen , combined with a decrease in customer demands. However, today a high-quality ready-made part should essentially correspond to the appearance of a custom-made part. Natural materials can be ironed into shape; today's micro and other high-tech fabrics are not suitable for this .

Dressage of the pants

The front and back trousers were trained before they were sewn together. Trouser parts were trained seam after seam, the later breaks were not allowed to be ironed in, the dressage was done from the left. The front trousers were grooved from the hem up to the level of the knee stitches, that is, the later knee was trained clearly back to the crotch and side seam, the hem slightly pulled forward, which roughly corresponds to the shape of the shin. The knee was not shaped because it bulges anyway when worn.

The hind trousers were pulled back up to half the knee height, so to the break, then pulled back towards the knee so that the shape corresponded to the calf. From the knee to the cross seam, the pants should lie flat so as not to stretch the seams. At the level of the cross seam, the trousers were pulled back from the knee and allowed to taper off. The fully trained hind trousers show a clear bulge at the level of the calf, a noticeable recess at the level of the knee and a clear pull towards the buttocks , where they, anatomically correct, ends in a round shape .

Dressage the vest

The west front was weak trained, behind the bust dart is trained armhole strong one, ironed it clear just what a rounding yielded over his chest. It was briefly ironed at waist level to let it run out towards the hips.

Dressage of the sacco parts

The back of the Sacco was very short ironed in the amount of sleeve hole, and only there, the remaining length was allowed as a range of motion in the shoulder blade. The armpit seam was slightly semicircular inwards so that an inward curve ran from the armpit seam at the sleeve hole to the center back; the fullness benefited the shoulder blade. Towards the waist, the lower part was shaped outwards in a semicircle, towards the side seam, and about two thirds of the height a strong arch was ironed to the waist. The part should not be stretched from the waist to the sleeve hole. Correspondingly, the central back seam was trained against, that is, round inwards, from the waist to the collar, fullness on the shoulder blades, hip arch in the lower part outwards, in order to create space for the buttocks.

The side part was given a slight dressage to the waist, the sleeve hole was kept short in order to prevent excessive folds, as they are common today.

The front part received the strongest dressage. You train after closing the bust dart and after the pocket cut is fixed.

The tap was not trained. Then the chest was deeply indented from the pocket cut up to the level of the armhole without touching the lapel break.

Then the sleeve hole was briefly ironed in the lower third, the fullness was rounded towards the chest, it gave the width to leave enough space in the movement over the costal arch. The side seam was kept short towards the waist, pulled downwards in the upper third around the outside to work in the hip arch. This corresponds to the shape of the side part. Skillful journeymen matched the front and side parts in dressage so as not to add any extra length. The occupation was not trained in the lower half, from about the pivot point it was pulled strongly outwards, which resulted in the necessary width to let the lapel roll off cleanly.

For dressage, the parts were given plenty of water, pressure, heat and moisture make fibers malleable, if the diagonal pulls, diagonal to the horizontal and vertical threads of the fabric, together with the fixation by the seams, you get a permanent shape, the tailor-made clothing clearly from confection, which is partially dressed by machines, differed.

In order to be able to assess the work, you have to know that one hand was holding the iron weighing around 5 kilograms, while the other hand was pulling the fabric away from the iron. With heavy cloths, this work required physical strength and speed. The work had to proceed quickly so as not to scorch the pattern pieces. With light fabrics the risk of scorching was very high. Apprentices could not be used for dressage because 14-year-olds used to be not tall and strong enough for it. At that time, Saccos were only entrusted to dressage apprentices in their third year of training.

literature

  • Dressage of the sacco front parts . In: The master tailor. Trade magazine for men's tailors . tape 48 , no. 5 , 1955, OCLC 315517103 , ZDB -ID 331294-X , p. 27 .
  • Dressage of the pants . In: Review for the men's tailoring trade . tape 94 , no. 6 + 7 . Rundschau-Verlags-Gesellschaft, 1976, ISSN  0948-8448 , OCLC 224468845 , ZDB -ID 748610-8 .