La Dura Dura
La Dura Dura is currently the world's most difficult confirmed climbing route (grade XII− (UIAA) or 9b + (French)). It was set up by Chris Sharma in 2009 in the Oliana climbing area in Catalonia ( Spain ) and was first climbed by Adam Ondra on February 7, 2013 . Ondra suggested a level of difficulty 9b + for the route, which was confirmed by Chris Sharma when he repeated it in March 2013.
On September 3, 2017, Adam Ondra climbed the route Silence in Flatanger, Norway, and suggested grade 9c for it. That would be the first route in the "smooth" 12th level of difficulty (XII) according to the UIAA. However, the route's difficulty level has yet to be confirmed.
La Dura Dura can be divided into three sections:
- The first section is about 10 meters long, extremely overhanging and has a difficulty of 9b / +. The section ends with a bad knee clamp locking point.
- The second section is also about 10 meters long and moves in the area 8c +. After two mini-pincer grips, there is a proper rest point.
- The following third section to the deflector is about 20 meters long and consists of climbing passages in the 8b area.
Another route with a level of difficulty 9b + is The Change , which was set up by Ondra and which he first climbed on October 4, 2012. In an interview with PlanetMountain in 2013, Ondra said: “I reckon La Dura Dura is 9b + (5.15c). If I compare it to Change I think La Dura Dura is harder, but still 9b +. ”(“ I mean La Dura Dura is 9b + (5.15c). When I compare it to Change, La Dura Dura is heavier, but still 9b +. ")
Inspections
The route has only been repeated once since it was first ascended and thus has two ascents:
- February 7, 2013 - Adam Ondra , Czech Republic
- March 23, 2013 - Chris Sharma , USA
Web links
- The video shows the ascent by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra.
- Adam Ondra in an interview
- Summary of the 2013 ascents: La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World
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