Adam Ondra

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Adam Ondra Sport climbing
Adam Ondra (2018)
nation Czech RepublicCzech Republic Czech Republic
birthday 5th February 1993 (age 27)
place of birth Brno , Czech Republic
size 185 cm
Weight 68 kg
Career
discipline Lead , bouldering
status active
Medal table
World championships 4 × gold 5 × silver 2 × bronze
European championships 1 × gold 5 × silver 0 × bronze
World climbing championships
silver 2009 Xining Lead
bronze 2011 Arco Lead
silver 2011 Arco Bouldering
bronze 2012 Paris Lead
gold 2014 Gijón Lead
gold 2014 Gijón Bouldering
gold 2016 Paris Lead
silver 2016 Paris Bouldering
silver 2018 Innsbruck Lead
silver 2018 Innsbruck combination
gold 2019 Hachioji Lead
European climbing championships
silver 2010 Innsbruck Lead
silver 2010 Innsbruck Bouldering
silver 2015 Chamonix Lead
silver 2015 Chamonix Bouldering
silver 2017 Campitello di Fassa Lead
gold 2019 Edinburgh Lead
Placements in the climbing world cup
 Debut in the World Cup May 1, 2009
 World Cup victories 14th
 Lead World Cup 1. (2009, 2015)
 Boulder World Cup 1. (2010)
 Combination World Cup 1. (2009, 2010, 2015)
 Podium placements 1. 2. 3.
 Lead 11 5 1
 Bouldering 3 3 3
last change: September 16, 2018

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993 in Brno ) is a Czech sport climber . At the age of 13 he was one of the world's best. Ondra is best known for his achievements in rock climbing. Because of his age he was on until 2009 competitive climbing participate gentlemen category and won in the lead climbing the Vice World Champion title and the World Cup 2009. In 2010 he won the overall World Cup victory and in 2014 the world championship in bouldering and lead climbing. Ondra studies economics at the Masaryk University in Brno.

Career

Adam Ondra during his victory in the Lead Climb World Cup in Imst , 2009
Ondra in Route Silence, 2017

Supported by his parents, who also climbed, Adam Ondra began climbing at the age of six. In 2006, at the age of 13, he mastered a route with an eleventh level of difficulty (9a on the French difficulty scale). More successes followed on some of the toughest routes in the world such as La Rambla and Action Directe, as well as difficult first ascents. Since the first red point ascent of the WoGü route (8c, 7SL), which, along with Bellavista, is one of the most difficult alpine routes in the Alps at the moment, Adam Ondra has also been among the world's best in alpine climbing . On October 20, 2009, in the Italian region of Domusnova near Cagliari on Sardinia, he managed to climb the “Marina Superstar” route (9a + / 9b) for the first time. If the difficulty is confirmed, it was one of the five hardest routes in the world at the time. On March 13, 2010 he was the first after Chris Sharma to repeat the Golpe de Estado route in Siurana , Spain , with the highest level of difficulty at the time, 9b.

In February 2011, with the La Capella in Siurana, he succeeded in climbing a route with grade "9b". A little later in March 2011, within two days in Etxauri (Spain), he climbed two “8c +” on sight , as well as an “8c” and an “8b +” in the same style. After Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, he is the second climber to achieve an “8c +” on sight. In July 2013 he achieved a “9a” on sight with “La cabane au Canada” in Rawyl in Switzerland as the second climber in the world after Alexander Megos .

On October 4, 2012, he managed what was then perhaps the most difficult route in the world. He called it The Change and rated it “9b +”. The route is located in the “Hansehellaren” cave near Flatanger (Norway). On February 7, 2013, he succeeded in “ La Dura Dura ” in Oliana (Spain), another route for which he suggested grade 9b +. On March 23, 2013, Chris Sharma , who confirmed the degree of difficulty, managed the first repetition of the route.

From November 14 to 21, 2016, he succeeded in repeating the Dawn wall (9a) on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley California (USA) for the first time. The route is one of the most difficult multi-pitch tours in the world. The first climbers had required many attempts, spread over several years.

On September 3, 2017, Adam Ondra managed the first ascent of the Silence route in the “Hansehellaren” cave in Norway. The extremely overhanging and 45 meter long route is, according to him, the hardest route ever climbed. He classified them as 5.15d and 9c, respectively . Ondra worked on this project all summer 2017 and therefore did not take part in any competitions during the season.

On February 10, 2018 he succeeded in the first flash of a route in grade 9a + with Super Crackinett in Saint-Léger in France.

Competitive climbing

At the Boulder World Cup in Munich, 2015

In 2007 he won the European Youth Series and became world champion of youth B. Since 2009 he has been able to compete in the World Cup and in championships in the adult class. At the 2009 World Cup in China, he came in second. Here he won his first World Cup in August 2009. At the end of the year he was the winner of the overall World Cup 2009 with four World Cup victories. In 2010 he also won the overall ranking in bouldering with three daily victories; He is so far the only climber who has succeeded in successively winning the overall World Cup in both difficulty climbing and bouldering. After a two-year break from competition, he won a World Cup in Valence, France, in October 2013. In 2014 Adam Ondra wrote climbing history again. He was the first climber in history to win both the Bouldering World Championship and the Lead World Championship in the same year. In 2015 he was third in the overall bouldering world cup. In the same year he won the overall World Cup in the lead in the final event in Kranj . He achieved 2nd place in the overall ranking at the 2018 World Climbing Championships in Innsbruck.

At the Climbing World Championships 2019 he won gold in the lead, after having reached the final in bouldering a few days earlier, but only achieved 6th place there. Ondra secured participation in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo in Toulouse, where sport climbing as Olympic combined is on the program for the first time.

successes

Rock climbing

Routes

  • Super Crackinett (9a + French) - February 2018 - First ascent in the flash of a route with a level of difficulty 9a +
  • One slab (9b French) - November 2017 - First ascent of the Laghel route (Italy)
  • Silence (9c French suggested) - September 2017 - First ascent of the route in Hanshellaren near Flatanger in Norway, currently the most difficult, unconfirmed climbing route in the world
  • Move Hard (9b French suggested) - July 2017 - First ascent in Hanshellaren near Flatanger in Norway
  • Queensline (9b French) - April 2017 - First ascent of the route at Lake Garda (Italy)
  • Mamichula (9b French suggested) - February 2017 - First ascent of the route in Oliana (Spain)
  • Robin ud (9b French suggested) - October 2016 - First ascent in Slovakia, accessed on February 5, 2018
  • Stoking the fire ( 9b French ) in Santa Linya in February 2016 in Spain. First repetition
  • CRS (9b French) - November 2015 - First ascent of the route near Mollans in France
  • First round first minute , (9b French) - February 2014 - first repetition
  • Vasil Vasil (9b + French suggested) - December 2013 - first ascent at Sloup in Moravský kras ; currently probably the hardest route in the Czech Republic
  • Move (9b / + French) - August 2013 - First ascent in Hanshellaren near Flatanger in Norway
  • Torture Physique Integrale (9b French) - July 2013 - First ascent in the Gastlosen (Switzerland)
  • La Dura Dura (9b + French) - February 7, 2013 - first ascent of the route in Oliana (Spain); the currently hardest, confirmed route in the world
  • Fight or Flight (9b French) - February 2013 - Second repetition of a route in this level of difficulty
  • The Change (9b + French suggested) - October 2012 - First ascent of the route near Flatanger in Norway
  • Thor's Hammer (9a + French) - July 2012 - First ascent of the route near Flatanger in Norway
  • Perlorodka (9a + French) - September 2011 - first ascent of the route on Holštejn in Moravský kras
  • Gancho Perfecto (9a French) July 2011 - Adam scores Sharma's "Gancho Perfecto" in the third attempt (Margalef, Spain)
  • Era Bella (9a French) July 2011 - Second attempt (Margalef, Spain)
  • Overshadow (9a + French) May 2011 - Repetition of Steve McClure's route in Malham (Northern England)
  • La planta de shiva (9b French) April 2011 - first ascent in Villanueva del Rosario in Málaga (Spain)
  • Chilam Balam (9b French) - First repetition, although the first ascent of the route by Bernabé Fernández in 2003 has been questioned.
  • Chaxiraxi (9b French) - March 2011 - first ascent in Oliana (Spain)
  • La Capella (9b French) - February 2011 - first ascent in Siurana
  • Tough enough (400 m, 8c) - End of September 2010 - First continuous free ascent in one day
  • Tanec kuřátek (9a French) - March 30, 2010 - first ascent in Jáchymka, Moravský kras
  • Golpe de Estado (9b French) - Siurana (Spain), March 13, 2010 - First repetition of a route in this level of difficulty
  • A present for the future (9a / 9a + French) - January 2nd, 2010 - first ascent
  • Marina Superstar (9a + / 9b French) - October 20, 2009 - first ascent
  • Fugu (9a French) - Schleier waterfall , September 20, 2009 - First ascent of the route set up by Alexander Huber in 1998.
  • Mazawattee (8c + French) - July 27, 2009 - first ascent, Africa's most difficult climbing route
  • Om (9a French) - June 20, 2009 - First repetition after the first ascent in 1992 by Alexander Huber
  • Corona (9a + French) - Frankenjura, June 6, 2009 - First repetition of the most difficult German route to date
  • Halupca 1978 (9a French) - Osp (Slovenia) - November 25, 2008 - Red point ascent in the second attempt.
  • Open Air (9a +) - Schleierwasserfall - November 17th, 2008 - First repetition after the first ascent in 1996 by Alexander Huber . The route was originally rated 9a by Alexander Huber.
  • Campo Con Corvi (9a French) - October 20, 2008 - first ascent
  • Hotel Supramonte (8b French, 10 SL) - October 18th, 2008 - First onsight ascent of this route
  • White Rose (9a French) - Schleierwasserfall, September 13, 2008 - First repetition after the first ascent by Alexander Huber
  • WoGü (8c French, 7SL) - Kirchlispitzen , June 26, 2008 - First red point ascent, probably the most difficult alpine climbing route in the Alps at the moment
  • Action Directe (9a French) - May 19, 2008
  • La Rambla (9a + French) - February 10, 2008
  • La Novena Enmienda (9a + French) - February 2008
  • Rollito Sharma Extension ( Onsight 8c / 5.14b) - February 2008
  • Digital System (Onsight 8c / 5.14b) - February 2008
  • Open Your Mind (9a / 5.14d) - February 2008
  • Fuck The System (9a / 5.14d) - February 2008
  • Abyss (9a / 5.14d) - 2007
  • Success can be trained (9a / 5.14d) - 2007
  • Martin Krpan (9a / 5.14d) - Osp (Slovenia) - November 11, 2006

Boulder

Ondra at the Boulder Worldcup in Vienna, 2010
  • Jade (flash, col. 8b +) - June 7th, 2015
  • Gioia ( Fb. 8c + ) - December 2011 - Boulder near Varazze , Liguria
  • Terranova (Fb. 8c +) - November 2011 - Boulder in Moravský kras ; the currently hardest boulder in the Czech Republic
  • Confessions ( flash , Fb. 8b ) - December 20, 2009 - Was originally rated 8b +, probably the hardest boulder ever climbed in flash
  • The Dagger (Fb.8b +) - December 18, 2009
  • Armed Response (flash, Fb.8b) - July 30, 2009
  • The Vice (flash, Fb.8b) - July 30, 2009
  • Dreamtime (Fb. 8b +) - March 23, 2008 - First ascent again after the grip broke in December 2009

Competitive climbing

  • World Champion 2007 Youth B
  • Winner of the European Youth Series 2007
  • World Cup overall winner in lead 2009
  • 10 Lead World Cup victories (as of 2015)
  • World Cup overall winner in bouldering 2010
  • 4 World Cup victories in bouldering (as of 2015)
  • Vice European champion 2010 in bouldering and lead
  • World championship title in overall 2011 (lead, bouldering, speed), vice world champion in lead 2009 and bouldering 2011; Third place in lead at the 2011 and 2012 World Championships
  • Rockmaster 2011, 2015 in lead
  • 2014 world champion in bouldering
  • World Champion 2014 in lead
  • Vice European Champion 2015 in bouldering
  • Third in the overall World Cup 2015 in bouldering
  • World Cup overall winner in lead 2015
  • World Champion 2016 in lead
  • Vice world champion 2016 in bouldering
  • Vice world champion 2018 in the disciplines lead and combination
  • World Champion 2019 in the lead

Filmography

  • The Fanatic Search , by Work Less Climb More (Prod.) And by Laurent Triay (Realizor), 2009, DVD, The Fanatic Search - La quête fanatique ( Memento from September 21, 2010 in the Internet Archive )
  • Progression , by Josh Lowell at Big UP Productions, 2009, DVD, Big up productions
  • The Wizard's Apprentice , English documentary about Adam Ondra by Petr Pavlicek, 110 ', produced at Bernartwook, January 2012
  • Reel Rock Tour 7 , Big UP Productions, November 2012, DVD
  • Silence — The Story of Adam Ondra and the World's First 5.15d, by Bernardo Giménez, 2018, AO Production sro

Web links

Commons : Adam Ondra  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ World Cup result in lead climbing 2009
  2. ^ Article in the Prager Zeitung
  3. ^ "Marina Superstar" 9a + / 9b First ascent by Adam Ondra. bergstieg.com, accessed November 3, 2009 .
  4. ↑ Adam Ondra scores WOGÜ. Ostbayern-climb.de, accessed on November 20, 2008 .
  5. ↑ Adam Ondra repeats “Golpe de Estado” 9b!
  6. ↑ Shortnews: Ondra opens “La Capella 9b”, Oddo boulders “Ambrosia.
  7. ↑ adam ondra succeeded in two 8c on sight
  8. ^ Adam Ondra, onsight La cabane au Canada, 9a ( Memento from June 16, 2014 in the Internet Archive )
  9. ↑ www.climbing.com
  10. ↑ http://www.bergleben.de/klettern/207-e_440744.html
  11. ↑ the fight is over
  12. ↑ www.bergstieg.com
  13. ↑ Climbing: [1] Adam Ondra Sends "Project Hard," Suggests 9c (5.15d), September 3, 2017
  14. ↑ Interview with Ondra in Planetmountain (EN).
  15. ^ Portrait of Adam Ondra (CZE). In: bergleben.de. March 1, 2012, accessed March 2, 2014 .
  16. ↑ new world champions in china chosen ( memento from July 11, 2009 in the Internet Archive )
  17. ↑ Competition results at www.bergleben.de
  18. ↑ World Championship 2014: Bouldering and Lead at www.bergleben.de
  19. ↑ IFSC: IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: MEN bouldering
  20. ↑ IFSC: [2]
  21. ↑ Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing? olympicchannel.com
  22. ↑ Czech rock climber Adam Ondra knocked out of World Cup in Japan radio.cz
  23. ↑ acrux.com: Toulouse qualification: canceled volume and Ondra with Olympic ticket , November 28, 2019
  24. ↑ www.lacrux.com accessed on August 16, 2017
  25. ^ Adam Ondra making the FA of Mamichula, 9b from www.ukclimbing.com, accessed on February 14, 2017
  26. ↑ www.climbing.com
  27. ↑ www.ukclimbing.com accessed on February 4, 2014
  28. ↑ www.8a.nu , accessed December 5, 2013
  29. ↑ on www.climbing.com ( Memento from July 20, 2012 in the Internet Archive ); Retrieved July 12, 2012
  30. ↑ on www.czechclimbing.com ; Retrieved October 17, 2011
  31. ↑ Adam Ondra - Gancho Perfecto (9a French) + Sharma Video on www.ukclimbing.com; Retrieved August 12, 2011
  32. ↑ Era Bella and Gancho Perfecto 9a, and 8c + in Spain ( Memento of October 29, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) on www.adamondra.com; Retrieved August 12, 2011
  33. ↑ Adam Ondra scores "Overshadow" (9a +) in Malham ( memento from June 15, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) on klettern.de ; Retrieved May 23, 2011
  34. ^ Adam Ondra - La planta de shiva 9b . czechclimbing.com. Retrieved May 17, 2011.
  35. ↑ Adam Ondra climbs Chilam Balam on bergleben.de; Retrieved March 18, 2011
  36. ↑ Adam Ondra climbs Chilam Balam, 9b. In: Bergstieg.com. April 15, 2011, accessed March 2, 2014 .
  37. ↑ Sarah Burmester: Adam Ondra: 9b first ascent in Oliana . kletter.de. March 29, 2011. Archived from the original on June 22, 2011. Retrieved on May 17, 2011.
  38. ↑ Short news: Ondra opens "La Capella 9b", Oddo boulders "Ambrosia", Lama on the Cerro Torre on bergleben.de; Retrieved February 24, 2011
  39. ↑ Adam Ondra climbs Tough Enough (400 m, 8c). In: bergstieg.com. Retrieved October 16, 2010 .
  40. ↑ Adam Ondra repeats “Golpe de Estado” 9b! (No longer available online.) In: klettern.de. Archived from the original on March 17, 2010 ; Retrieved March 15, 2010 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.bergstieg.at
  41. ↑ Portrait: Climber Adam Ondra - The Sorcerer's Apprentice. In: sueddeutsche.de. Retrieved August 11, 2010 .
  42. ↑ Adam Ondra repeats "Om" (9a) by Alexander Huber. (No longer available online.) In: klettern.de. Archived from the original on June 27, 2009 ; Retrieved June 23, 2009 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.klettern.de
  43. ↑ on www.ukclimbing.com ; Retrieved December 7, 2011
  44. ↑ on www.czechclimbing.com ; Retrieved November 22, 2011
  45. ↑ Adam Ondra flashes "Confessions" (Fb 8b +) in Ticino ( Memento from February 8, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Report on klettern.de about flashing confessions
  46. ↑ IFSC World Cup overall result 2009
  47. ^ Adam Ondra and Hélène Janicot win the Duel and Rock Master 2015
  48. ^ The Wizard's Apprentice . In: adamondrafilm.com . Retrieved January 21, 2014.
personal data
SURNAME Ondra, Adam
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Czech sport climber
DATE OF BIRTH 5th February 1993
PLACE OF BIRTH Brno