Action Directe (climbing route)

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Alexander Megos in the route
View of the Action Directe at the Waldkopf. The wet stripes at the base of the overhang, which are typical of the Franconian Jura, are clearly visible.

The Action Directe at the Waldkopf in the Krottenseer Forest in the Frankenjura was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich on September 14, 1991 and is considered the first climbing route in the UIAA grade XI worldwide . In Adam Ondra's opinion , however, the somewhat older Hubble route by Ben Moon could have been the first of this difficulty. Alexander Megos , who knows both routes, classified Hubble as lighter, which did not result in the previously discussed upgrade of the Hubble route.

For Güllich, Action Directe was the return to difficult climbing problems after years in expedition mountaineering. The route was drilled by Milan Sykora. Since many of the world's best climbers failed because of it, it is now the benchmark for the French level of difficulty 9a (UIAA XI). The route is about 15 meters long and consists of 11 or 12 heavy trains, which start with a characteristic jump from a one-finger hole into a sharp two-finger hole.

The name refers to the French terrorist group Action directe , which alludes to the "attacks" on the fingers, especially on tendons and ligaments , when climbing the route; the name also refers to the direct line on the rock. Wolfgang Güllich used the campus board from 1988 to train for the special requirements of this route. The early repeaters also had to train specially for the route because it was "a whole new kind of contactless climbing", as Alexander Adler called it.

In May 2016 ten of the then 18 repeaters came together on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the first ascent in Auerbach and exchanged their experiences: Alexander Megos reported that Alexander Adler was the only one who had climbed the route with exactly the same grips as Güllich, all of them others would also have used handles on the left or right. Markus Bock and Felix Knaub reported that climbing sport and training had made such progress that (for top climbers) no preparatory training was required, but "training on the route" was sufficient.

Alexander Megos is so far the only climber who was able to master the route from the first bouldering to the successful ascent within one day.

Inspections

The route has been repeated 26 times since its first ascent on September 14, 1991 (as of 2020), two of which are controversial, of which only three repetitions in the first ten years:

  1. 1991 - Wolfgang Güllich , Germany
  2. 1995 - Alexander Adler, Germany
  3. 2000 - Iker Pou, Spain
  4. 2001 - Dave Graham , USA
  5. 2003 - Christian Bindhammer , Germany
  6. 2005 - Richard Simpson, Great Britain (inspection is now in doubt)
  7. 2005 - Dai Koyamada, Japan
  8. 2005 - Markus Bock , Germany
  9. 2006 - Kilian Fischhuber , Austria
  10. 2008 - Adam Ondra , Czech Republic
  11. 2008 - Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza , Spain
  12. 2010 - Gabriele Moroni, Italy
  13. 2010 - Jan Hojer , Germany
  14. 2010 - Adam Pustelnik, Poland
  15. 2011 - Felix Knaub, Germany
  16. 2012 - Rustam Gelmanov , Russia
  17. 2014 - Alexander Megos , Germany
  18. 2015 - Felix Neumärker, Germany
  19. 2015 - Julius Westphal, Germany
  20. 2016 - Stefano Carnati, Italy
  21. 2016 - David Firnenburg, Germany
  22. 2017 - Stephan Vogt, Germany
  23. 2017 - Simon Lorenzi, Belgium
  24. 2018 - Said Belhaj, Sweden (The site is now in doubt.)
  25. 2018 - Stefan Scarperi, Italy
  26. 2019 - Adrian Chmiała, Poland
  27. 2020 - Mélissa Le Nevé, France

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ What Has Ondra Ever Done On Grit? 3 E7 Onsights !. In: www.ukclimbing.com. May 6, 2014, accessed February 12, 2015 .
  2. ↑ Alexander Megos climbs Hubble , June 7, 2016, Sarah Burmester, www.klettern.de
  3. ↑ a b c 25 years of “Action Directe”. More than a piece of rock. In: DAV Panorama. April 2016, p. 29 , accessed January 4, 2018 .
  4. ^ Tilman Hepp: Wolfgang Güllich. Life in the vertical. A biography . 1st edition. Rosenheimer Verlagshaus Alfred Förg, Rosenheim 1993, ISBN 3-475-52747-2 , p. 125 .
  5. ↑ Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview. Retrieved January 18, 2020 .
  6. ↑ Dave Graham Gets 4th Ascent of Action Directe. In: camp4.com (English). May 30, 2001, accessed June 12, 2007 .
  7. ↑ Christian Bindhammer creates Action Directe (11 / 9a). In: bergstieg.com. October 13, 2003, accessed January 12, 2008 .
  8. ^ The Briton Richard Simpson repeats Action Directe. In: climbing.de. October 13, 2005, accessed June 12, 2007 .
  9. ↑ Rich Simpson - did he or he didn't? (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on March 15, 2012 ; Retrieved March 13, 2012 .
  10. ↑ The Japanese Dai Koyamada secures the 7th ascent of Action Directe. In: climbing.de. October 16, 2005, accessed June 12, 2007 .
  11. ↑ Markus Bock also succeeds in repeating Action Directe. In: climbing.de. October 23, 2005, accessed June 12, 2007 .
  12. ↑ Kilian Fischhuber repeats "Action Directe". In: climbing.de. October 3, 2006, accessed June 12, 2007 .
  13. ↑ Adam Ondra climbed Action Directe 11 UIAA. In: czechclimbing.com (English). May 21, 2008, accessed May 21, 2008 .
  14. ↑ 'Action Directe': trilogía completada. (No longer available online.) In: patxiusobiaga.net (Spanish). October 26, 2008, archived from the original on October 31, 2008 ; Retrieved October 27, 2008 .
  15. ↑ Patxi Usobiaga repeats Action Directe F9a. In: ukclimbing.com (English). October 27, 2008, accessed October 30, 2008 .
  16. ^ Action Directe by Gabriele Moroni. In: 8a.nu (English). April 17, 2010, accessed April 18, 2010 .
  17. ^ Action Directe by Jan Hojer (18). In: 8a.nu (English). May 22, 2010. Retrieved May 22, 2010 .
  18. ↑ Adam Pustelnik on Action Directe 9a! (Polish). October 11, 2010, accessed October 11, 2010 .
  19. ↑ Felix Knaub climbed “Action directe” (11) in the Franconian Jura. (No longer available online.) In: klettern.de. November 8, 2011, archived from the original on November 12, 2011 ; Retrieved November 8, 2011 .
  20. ↑ Rustam Gelmanov sale Action Directe 9a ( Memento from July 19, 2012 in the web archive archive.today )
  21. ↑ Alexander Megos repeats ´Action Directe´ (11) in two hours! In: www.frankenjura.com. May 4, 2014, accessed May 5, 2014 .
  22. ↑ Felix Neumärker repeats Action Direct (9a) and To tu jeste nebylo (9a). In: kletterszene.com. May 21, 2015, accessed May 21, 2015 .
  23. ↑ Julius Westphal repeats "Action Directe" (11). In: kletterszene.com. May 21, 2015, accessed June 26, 2015 .
  24. ↑ Article on Rock and Ice , accessed June 15, 2016
  25. ↑ David Firnenburg repeats "Action Directe" (9a) , accessed on November 6, 2016
  26. ↑ Stephan Vogt defeats »Action Directe« , accessed on April 6, 2017
  27. ↑ Quentin Coster: Simon Lorenzi enchaîne "Action Directe", son premier 9a! Retrieved May 15, 2017 (fr-fr).
  28. ↑ Said Belhaj repeats "Action Directe" (9a). Retrieved October 29, 2018 (de-en).
  29. ↑ Hannes Huch: Fame is a bitch . Rokblock, December 6, 2019
  30. ^ Stefan Scarperi: Action Directe 9a Stefan Scarperi. November 3, 2018, accessed November 6, 2018 .
  31. ↑ Adrian Chmiała with the 26th ascent of "Action Directe" (9a). Retrieved May 7, 2019 (de-en).
  32. ↑ Via Ferrata.de: Melissa Le Nevé is the first woman to climb Action Directe (XI) , May 22, 2020 with links to the video at reelrock

Coordinates: 49 ° 38 '  N , 11 ° 36'  E