Northern Franconian Jura climbing area

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Kurt Albert († 2010) climbing in the Northern Franconian Jura

The Northern Franconian Jura climbing area is one of the best-developed climbing areas in the world with over 10,000 routes on more than 1,000 massifs and towers . The climbing area is located in Franconian Switzerland and the Hersbrucker Alb between the cities of Nuremberg , Bamberg , Bayreuth and Amberg . This is where the first hook was cemented in and red point climbing had its roots.

The climbing rocks consist mainly of sedimented limestone from deposits of the shallow sea in the time of the White Jura about 161 to 150 million years ago.

Due to the many perforated rocks and overhangs, the Northern Franconian Jura is one of the most important extra-alpine climbing areas . The Action Directe route , first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich , has long been considered the most difficult free climbing route in the world. Currently, the route is expected supernova of Alexander Megos represent the most difficult route in the climbing area. Due to the firm, grippy rock, you can already take routes of III. Climb vertically.

Routes that climbers from all over the world make a pilgrimage to the Franconian region are called Sautanz , Magnet , Stonelove , Wall Street and Action Directe . All are representative of an era of the red dot movement that originated there and triggered a real climbing fever. Important climbing areas are the Trubachtal , the Rodenstein , the Wiesenttal , the Leinleitertal , the Püttlachtal , the Aufseßal and many other valleys.

Climbing areas

Northern part

Goat fields walls

This part comprises the entire area north of the A 70 and south of the A 70 the areas along the B 22 to Hollfeld with the following sub-areas:

Northwest part

Schauertaler tower over Streitberg

The region comprises the area west of the Heiligenstadt line in Upper Franconia - Streitberg , bounded to the south by the B 470 with the following sub-areas:

  • Burggrub and Oberngrub
  • Frankendorfer climbing garden
  • Streitberg and Muggendorf
    • Matterhorn wall
    • Schauertal tower
    • Streitberger shield
  • Leinleitertal near Veilbronn
  • Deep dishes

Northeast part

Dooser Wand in the upper Wiesent valley

The region comprises the area east of the Heiligenstadt – Streitberg line, bounded to the south by the B 470 with the following sub-areas:











Southwest part

Climbing on Daniel, Röthelfels
The brittle wall in the Todsfeld valley
The Wailing Wall at Sorg

The region comprises the area south of the Ebermannstadt - Pottenstein (Upper Franconia) line to Graefenberg and west of the A 9 with the following sub-areas:

Southeast part

View of the Action Directe at the Waldkopf

The region includes the area east of the A9 in the triangle Pegnitz - Velden - Königstein with the sub-areas

Here climbing history was written with Chasin 'the Trane (IX +), Wallstreet (XI-) and Action Directe (XI). They were the hardest ways of their time.

Southern part

Mittelbergwand in the Hirschbachtal

The region comprises the area east of the A 9 and south of Velden down to the Lauterachtal with the sub-areas:

  • Lauterachtal
  • Lichtenegg and Haunritz
  • Etzelbachtal (Lehenhammertal)
  • Förrenbachtal
  • Hirschbachtal
  • Black fire
  • Between Eschenbach and Artelshofen
  • Sittenbachtal
  • Gotzenberg
  • Schnaittach
  • Ammerthal
  • Neukirchen
  • Illschwang



Zone regulation to protect nature

Sign for zone regulation in the Franconian Jura

Many of the rocks in the Northern Franconian Jura climbing area are designated as nature reserves or natural monuments , some of which are also part of FFH areas . There is also a Franconian Switzerland Nature Park . To protect nature from excessive exposure to climbers and to preserve sensitive ecosystems, a so-called zone regulation was drawn up between the DAV , IG Climbing , nature conservationists and the responsible authorities from 1993 onwards . This includes the classification of each individual rock (with larger rocks also individual sections) in a certain category:

  • Zone 1: quiet zone, general climbing ban
  • Zone 2: Climbing on existing routes is permitted, but opening up new routes is prohibited
  • Zone 3: Climbing is generally permitted, including the development of new tours outside the vegetation zones

In addition, individual rocks are closed completely or for the breeding season (usually from early February to mid or late June) due to breeding birds, especially eagle owls and peregrine falcons , or particularly sensitive plants.

literature

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ https://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/news/artikel/1060
  2. ↑ Zoning concept on the IG Climbing website

Web links