Alexander Megos

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Alexander Megos Sport climbing
Alex Megos shortly before the start of the lead final at the World Cup Innsbruck 2018
Full name Alexander Megos
nation GermanyGermany Germany
birthday August 12, 1993
place of birth Erlangen , Germany
Career
discipline Bouldering , lead , combination
society Section attaining the DAV
status active
Medal table
World championships 0 × gold 1 × silver 1 × bronze
European championships 0 × gold 1 × silver 0 × bronze
World climbing championships
bronze 2018 Innsbruck, AUT Lead
silver 2019 Hachioji, JPN Lead
European climbing championships
silver 2017 Munich, DEU Bouldering
Placements in the climbing world cup
 Podium placements 1. 2. 3.
 Lead 0 1 1
last change: August 23, 2020

Alexander Megos (born August 12, 1993 in Erlangen ) is a German sport climber .

Alexander Megos in the "Action Directe" route , 2014

Career

Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes of up to 300 m when he was ten. From 2006 Megos trained in the state base "Franconia" of the climbing association Bavaria and later at the national base sport climbing in Erlangen-Nuremberg. This was looked after by Patrick Matros and Ludwig "Dicki" Korb, who train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007 Megos achieved his first 8a (French difficulty scale) , in 2009 he climbed his first 8c (French) with “Drive by shooting”, and in 2011 his first 9a (French) with “San Ku Kai”.

Alexander Megos has been actively participating in climbing competitions since 2006. He won two (youth) European championships (2009 and 2010) and one (youth) vice world championship in 2011. In 2009 he won every individual competition in the EYC series. He was vice European bouldering champion in 2017 and won his first lead world cup in Briançon (France) on July 21, 2018.

After graduating from high school in 2012, he focused on rock climbing. On March 24, 2013, he managed the world's first onsight ascent of a route with a difficulty level of 9a with the Estado Critico route in the Spanish climbing area Siurana . In August 2013 Megos climbed the hardest route with RED 9a and the hardest boulder on the Australian continent with Wheelchair . Due to the unusual length for a boulder, he did not rate the difficulty of wheelchair on the usual boulder scale, but on the French scale for a climbing route (9a +).

Alexander Megos is known for extremely fast repetitions of difficult rock climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, in his home climbing area, Franconian Switzerland, he achieved 9 routes in grade 9a (French) or 9a + (French) and 8 routes in grade 8c + (French), including "Modified" 9a + (French), one of the most difficult routes in Franconian Switzerland; also a red point ascent of the " Action Directe " within two hours of the first attempt, which is a record. In addition, he secured the only one-day ascent of the top route "Biographie / Realization " (9a +) in Ceüse, France.

In June 2014, Alexander Megos and Roger Schäli were able to climb the 20-pitch route “FLY” 8c (French) on the Staldeflue (Switzerland) for the first time, which is one of the most difficult big wall climbing routes in the world.

On October 1, 2015, he climbed the “Supernova” route in Franconian Switzerland, presumably establishing the first route in grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries.

With the ascent of the “First Round First Minute” route in December 2015, he succeeded in his first climbing line in grade 9b (French) .

On May 9, 2018, he secured the first ascent of the "Perfecto Mundo" route in Margalef (Spain), a line drilled in by Chris Sharma and planned for a long time, which Megos had tried several times with Sharma in the days before his ascent rated it 9b + (French).

Megos starts for the Erlangen section of the German Alpine Club . He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics .

In May 2020 Megos succeeded with the boulder "Upgrade U" 8C, the hardest boulder in his home area, Franconian Switzerland.

On August 5, 2020, after about 60 days of project planning and specific training, he climbed the "Bibliography" route in the French climbing area of ​​Céüse , which Ethan Pringle had drilled in 2009 , for which he suggests a level of difficulty 9c.

Successes (selection)

Competitions

  • 2008: German champion (youth)
  • 2009: European Champion (Youth A)
  • 2010: European Champion (Youth A)
  • 2011: 2nd place Youth World Cup
  • 2010: World Cup Lead Chamonix 15th place
  • 2014: La Sportiva Legends only 2nd place
  • 2015: CWIF (IFSC Promo Competition) 1st place
  • 2015: North Face Cup (Japan) 1st place
  • 2017: Vice European Champion Bouldering (Munich)
  • 2017: World Cup Lead Kranj (Slovenia) 2nd place
  • 2018: World Cup Lead Chamonix (France) 3rd place
  • 2018: World Cup Lead Briancon (France) 1st place
  • 2018: World Championship Lead Innsbruck (Austria) 3rd place
  • 2018: La Sportiva Legends only 1st place
  • 2019: World Cup Villars (Switzerland) 3rd place
  • 2019: World Cup Lead Chamonix (France) 2nd place
  • 2019: World Championship Hachioji (Japan) Lead Vice World Champion (2nd place)

Climbing routes (selection)

  • 2013: April, "Classified" 11 (9a), 4th attempt, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2013: June, "Dicker Bert" 11 (9a), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2013: August, "RED" 35 (9a), Blue Mountains, Australia
  • 2013: November, "Wheelchair" (9a +), Hollow Mountain Cave Australia
  • 2014: May, “Nice Freshly Baked” 11 (9a), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: June, "Janus" 11 (9a), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: June, "Modified" 11/11 + (9a +), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: July, “Et dieu créa la Flemme” (9a), Ceüse, France
  • 2014: September, "Sonic Kaboom" 11 (9a), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: September, "Geocache" 11/11 + (9a +) Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2015: April, “Schweinbaumeln” 35 (9a), Elphinstone, Blue Mountains , Australia
  • 2015: August, “The bard sings about the miracles of the day” 11 (9a), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2015: October, "Supernova" 11+ (9a + / 9b), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2015: October, “Super Pod” 5.14d (9a), New River Gorge, West Virginia, USA
  • 2016: January, “La Ley Indignata” 11 (9a), Margalef, Spain
  • 2016: August, "Fight Club" 5.15b (American) (9b), Canmore, Canada
  • 2016: October, “Super crackinette” (9a +), Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France
  • 2017: March, "Pasito a Pasito" (9a), Valle de los Condores, Chile
  • 2017: June, "Clash of the titans", (9a +), Nassereith, Austria
  • 2018: May, “Perfecto Mundo”, (9b +), Margalef, Spain
  • 2019: November, "Zoolander", (9a), Red River Gorge, USA
  • 2020: June, “Pornography”, (9a), Ceüse, France
  • 2020: August 5th, “Bibliography” (9c), Céüse, France

Repetitions (selection)

  • 2013: March, “Estado critico” (9a), 1. Onsight worldwide, Siurana, Spain
  • 2013: March, “ La Rambla ” (9a +), 2nd attempt, Siurana, Spain
  • 2013: May, "Corona" 11/11 + (9a +), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014; May, “ Action Directe ” 11 (9a), 3rd attempt, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: July, "Biographie / Realization " (9a +), 3rd attempt, Ceüse, France
  • 2015: October, “Solitary Man” (8c), Onsight (first onsight of an 8c route in Franconian Switzerland), Germany
  • 2015: November, “Demencia senil” (9a +), 3rd attempt, Margalef, Spain
  • 2015: December, “First round first minute” (9b), 3rd inspection, Margalef, Spain
  • 2016: January, “First Ley” (9a +), Margalef, Spain
  • 2016: May, “ Hubble ” (8c + / 9a), Raven Tor, UK
  • 2016: August, "The Path" 5.14aR (trad.), Flash, Lake Louise, Canada
  • 2016: October, "Becoming" 11/11 + (9a +), 1st repetition, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2017: May, "TCT" (9a), onsight, Gravere, Italy
  • 2017: June, "Companion of change", (9a +), 1st repetition, Zillertal, Austria
  • 2017: June, “Jungle Boogie”, (9a +), 4th attempt, Ceüse, France
  • 2017: August, "Speed ​​Intégrale", (9a), Voralpsee, Switzerland
  • 2017: August, “Im Reich des Shogun”, (9a), 3rd attempt, second repetition in 17 years, Basler Jura, Switzerland
  • 2017: September, “Coup de Grace”, (9a), 3rd attempt, 3rd repetition, Ticino, Switzerland
  • 2017: October, "Jaws 2", (9a +), 3rd attempt, Rumney, USA
  • 2017: October, “Capricorn”, (8c +), Flash, Leonidio, Greece
  • 2020: July, "Holy Grail", (9a), 2nd attempt, Frankenjura, Germany

Boulder (selection)

  • 2013: February, Terre de Sienne V13 / 14 (Fb 8B / 8B +), Hueco Tanks, Texas, USA
  • 2013: May, The Pumpenhausen Testpiece (Fb 8B), first ascent, Porth Ysgo, Wales, Great Britain
  • 2013: July, The Wheel of Life (9a / 9a +) (rated as route), Grampians, Australia
  • 2013: July, wheelchair (9a +) (rated as route), first ascent, Grampians, Australia
  • 2013: July, Pigeon Superstition V14 (Fb 8B +), Grampians, Australia
  • 2014: April, Bad Boyz for Life (Fb 8B +), first ascent, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: April, Neverending Story (Fb 8B +), Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • 2014: July, Amandla (Fb 8B +), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2014: August, Olifants Dawn (Fb 8B +), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2014: August, Sky (Fb 8B +), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2014: September, Wrath of the Lich King (Fb 8B + / 8C), 1st repetition, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2014: November, Meadowlark Lemon V14 (Fb 8B +), Red Rocks, California, USA
  • 2014: November, Montecore (Fb 8B +), Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2015: January, Direct North V14 (Fb 8B +), Buttermilks, California, USA
  • 2015: January, Lucid Dreaming V15 (Fb 8C), 3rd ascent, Buttermilks, California, USA
  • 2015: March, Orochi (Fb 8C), 3rd inspection (within 2 hours), Japan
  • 2015: March, Double Demerit (Fb 8B +), 1st repetition, Australia
  • 2016: October, Trainspotting (Fb 8B +), first ascent, Gothenburg, Sweden
  • 2017: July, Monkey Wedding (Fb 8C), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2017: July, Finnish Line (Fb 8C), Rocklands, South Africa
  • 2019: November, Power Animal sit start (Fb 8B +), first ascent, Buttermilks, California, USA
  • 2019: December, Bongo (Fb 8C), 3rd repetition, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2020: April, Half Life (Fb 8C), 1st repetition, Frankenjura, Germany
  • 2020: May, Upgrade U (Fb 8C), first ascent, Frankenjura, Germany

Honors

  • Golden Piton 2013
  • Nomination Salewa Rock Award 2013, 2014, 2018
  • Winner Salewa Rock Award 2015

TV appearances

Web links

Commons : Alexander Megos  - collection of images, videos and audio files

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  1. ↑ Alexander Megos climbs to the top of the world. In: nordbayern.de. June 6, 2013, accessed June 14, 2020 .
  2. ↑ Digitalrock.de: Profile: Alexander Megos accessed on September 14, 2015
  3. ↑ Ifsc-Climbing.org: Profile: Alexander Megos IFSC competition results , accessed on October 30, 2018
  4. ↑ [1] March 29, 2013, accessed September 14, 2015
  5. ↑ [2] November 2013, accessed on September 14, 2015
  6. ↑ [3] June 17, 2014, accessed on September 14, 2015
  7. ↑ [4] May 6, 2014, accessed September 14, 2015
  8. ↑ Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie / Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries ( Memento from January 1, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) accessed on January 1, 2016
  9. ↑ [5] June 19, 2014, accessed September 14, 2015
  10. ↑ Supernova (11+): Alexander Megos succeeds first 11+ in the Franconian Jura! - News about climbing - Frankenjura.com. In: www.frankenjura.com. Retrieved October 3, 2015 .
  11. ↑ Video: First ascent of "Upgrade U" (8C) by Alex Megos. In: www.kletterblock.de. July 8, 2020, accessed August 7, 2020 .
  12. ↑ Delaney Miller: Alex Megos sends the second 5.15d to the world. In: rockandice.com. August 6, 2020, accessed August 12, 2020 .
  13. ↑ Alexander Megos wins the 3rd Lead World Cup in Briançon (France)
  14. ↑ German climber wins bronze at World Championships in Innsbruck
  15. ↑ Vimeo.com: Alex Megos in Modified, 11 (9a + - 5.15a) in Frankenjura , October 15, 2015, accessed on October 16, 2015
  16. ↑ Frankenjura.com: New team by Alex Megos! , accessed October 5, 2015
  17. ↑ Planetmountain.com: Alexander Megos climbs Australia's second 9a , April 9, 2015, accessed September 14, 2015
  18. ↑ Ukclimbing.com: The Bard celebrates the wonders of the day - new 9a by Megos , August 20, 2015, accessed September 14, 2015
  19. ↑ Alex Megos Claims First Ascent of New River Gorge's First 5.14d ( October 15, 2015 memento in the Internet Archive ) December 10, 2015, accessed October 16, 2015
  20. ↑ desnivel.com: Alex Megos celebra el fin de año encadenando “First round, first minute” 9b , accessed on January 2, 2016
  21. ↑ Alex Megos gets the first ascent of "Perfecto Mundo" (9b +). Retrieved May 11, 2018 .
  22. ↑ Climbing.com: Alex Megos Sends Multi-Year Project Bibliography, Suggests 5.15d
  23. ↑ Planetmountain.com: Alexander Megos repeats First Round, First Minute 9b at Margalef , accessed January 1, 2016
  24. ↑ Ukclimbing.com: Alex Megos repeats Hubble June 1, 2016, accessed June 2, 2016
  25. ↑ Planetmountain.com: Arco Rock Legends 2015 won by Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra and John Ellison September 5, 2015, accessed September 14, 2015
  26. ↑ From the rock to the hall. Studio guest Alexander Megos in portrait. In: zdf.de. September 5, 2019, accessed on July 15, 2020 (broadcast date was September 8).
  27. ↑ Climbing with pro Alex Megos. In: daserste.de. December 1, 2019, accessed June 14, 2020 .
personal data
SURNAME Megos, Alexander
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German sport climber
DATE OF BIRTH August 12, 1993
PLACE OF BIRTH gain