Climbing World Championship 2018

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Climbing World Championship 2018
Logo Climbing World Cup 2018
Final route lead women
Final route lead women
city AustriaAustria Innsbruck , Austria
Stadion Olympiaworld Innsbruck, Innsbruck climbing center
opening September 6, 2018
Final day 16th September 2018
timeline
2016 Paris 2019 Hachioji

The Climbing World Championship 2018 is the name of the Climbing World Championship held from September 6 to 16, 2018 in Innsbruck . The disciplines of difficulty climbing , speed climbing , bouldering and combination as well as paraclimbing were held.

organizer

The official organizer of the IFSC Climbing World Championships Innsbruck Tirol 2018 was Innsbruck Tirol 2018 Kletter-WM Veranstaltungs GmbH. The World Cup was organized by the Climbing Association Austria in cooperation with the Austrian Alpine Club . The income from the World Cup amounted to 2.96 million euros and the expenditure amounted to 2.88 million euros.

venue

The qualification competitions took place in the outdoor area of ​​the Innsbruck KI climbing center , which opened in May 2017, while the semi-finals and final competitions and the closing ceremony took place in the Innsbruck Olympic Hall . The opening ceremony and the victory ceremonies were held on the market square in Innsbruck.

Results

Difficulty climbing

Jessica Pilz and Janja Garnbret both reached the top in the women's lead final ; because of the tie in the semifinals, the climbing time was counted and Jessica Pilz won with an 11 second lead (see IFSC rules ). In the men reached Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra both 36+ points; the semifinal points (38+ or 34) decided between places 1 and 2 (“countback”). AustriaAustria SloveniaSlovenia AustriaAustria Czech RepublicCzech Republic 

final winner Second Third
Women 0September 8, 2018 AustriaAustria Jessica Mushroom SloveniaSlovenia Janja Garnbret Korea SouthSouth Korea Jain Kim
Men 0September 9, 2018 AustriaAustria Jakob Schubert Czech RepublicCzech Republic Adam Ondra GermanyGermany Alexander Megos

Speed ​​climbing

The speed climbing was the knockout system played on a standardized 15-meter route. The fastest time in the women was 7:56 seconds and was climbed by Aleksandra Rudzinska in the final , in the men 5:61 seconds and was presented in the quarter-finals by QiXin Zhong . PolandPoland China People's RepublicPeople's Republic of China 

final winner Second Third
Women 13th September 2018 PolandPoland Aleksandra Rudzińska PolandPoland Anna Brożek RussiaRussia Mariia Krasavina
Men 13th September 2018 IranIran Reza Alipourshenazandifar FranceFrance Bassa Mawem RussiaRussia Stanislav Kokorin

Bouldering

final winner Second Third
Women September 14, 2018 SloveniaSlovenia Janja Garnbret JapanJapan Akiyo Noguchi SerbiaSerbia Stasa Gejo
Men 15th September 2018 JapanJapan Kai Harada Korea SouthSouth Korea Jongwon Chon SloveniaSlovenia Gregor Vezonik

combination

The Combination discipline was designed to accommodate sport climbing at the Olympic Games . The set of rules was drafted by seven climbing associations and ratified in March 2017. At the international level, the combination will also be held at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympic Games ; the 2018 World Climbing Championship was the second international event after the 2017 World Youth Championship.

In combination, the individual disciplines Speed, Boulder and Lead (lead climb) are climbed in this order. Each of these disciplines is evaluated according to the IFSC rules; the combined evaluation is the product of the placements in the three disciplines; the climber with the lowest number wins.

Six women and six men were selected for the final from the results of the individual competitions that have already been completed. On September 16, 2018, they climbed a speed knockout final, four boulders and a lead route. Janja Garnbret won the women with 5 points (= 5 × 1 × 1; 5th in speed, 1st in the boulder, 1st in the lead), in the men Jakob Schubert with 4 points (= 2 × 1 × 2; 2 . in speed, 1st in boulder, 2nd in lead). SloveniaSlovenia AustriaAustria 

final winner Second Third
Women 16th September 2018 SloveniaSlovenia Janja Garnbret Korea SouthSouth Korea Sol Sa AustriaAustria Jessica Mushroom
Men 16th September 2018 AustriaAustria Jakob Schubert Czech RepublicCzech Republic Adam Ondra GermanyGermany Jan Hojer

Medal table

Medal table (lead, speed, bouldering and combination)
space country gold silver bronze total
01 AustriaAustria Austria 3 - 1 4th
02 SloveniaSlovenia Slovenia 2 1 1 4th
03 JapanJapan Japan 1 1 - 2
03 PolandPoland Poland 1 1 - 2
05 IranIran Iran 1 - - 1
06th Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea - 2 1 3
07th Czech RepublicCzech Republic Czech Republic - 2 - 2
08th FranceFrance France - 1 - 1
09 GermanyGermany Germany - - 2 2
09 RussiaRussia Russia - - 2 2
11 SerbiaSerbia Serbia - - 1 1

Paraclimbing

Web links

Commons : World Climbing Championship 2018  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. a b Austria Climbing: Disciplines. In: Kletter-WM Innsbruck Tirol 2018. Retrieved on September 16, 2018 .
  2. Climbing World Championships closed with a profit. In: tirol.orf.at. May 14, 2019, accessed May 26, 2019 .
  3. Climbing World Championships: Jessica Pilz wins gold in the lead . In: The press . September 8, 2018 ( diepresse.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
  4. Home victory! Jessica Pilz is world champion! In: innsbruck2018 . September 8, 2018 ( innsbruck2018.com [accessed September 9, 2018]).
  5. Gold for Jakob Schubert! In: innsbruck2018 . September 9, 2018 ( innsbruck2018.com [accessed September 9, 2018]).
  6. General result WOMEN lead. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. IFSC, accessed on September 8, 2018 (English).
  7. General result MEN lead. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. IFSC, accessed on September 9, 2018 (English).
  8. General result WOMAN speed. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 13, 2018 (English).
  9. General result MEN speed. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 13, 2018 (English).
  10. General result WOMEN bouldering. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 14, 2018 (English).
  11. General result MEN bouldering. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 16, 2018 .
  12. Austria Climbing: IFSC Congress in Quebec ratifies Olympic combination format for Tokyo 2020! In: Austria Climbing . March 13, 2017 ( austriaclimbing.com [accessed September 16, 2018]).
  13. IFSC: 100 Days to Go to Buenos Aires . June 28, 2018 (English, ifsc-climbing.org [accessed on September 16, 2018]).
  14. Qualification result WOMEN combined. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 16, 2018 .
  15. Qualification result MEN combined. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 16, 2018 .
  16. General result WOMEN combined. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 16, 2018 .
  17. Climbing World Championships: Pilz crowns home game with combined bronze . In: sport.ORF.at . September 16, 2018 ( orf.at [accessed on September 16, 2018]).
  18. ^ General result MEN combined. In: IFSC Climbing World Championships: Innsbruck (AUT) 2018. Accessed on September 16, 2018 .
  19. Climbing World Championships: Schubert ensures a golden finish . In: sport.ORF.at . September 16, 2018 ( orf.at [accessed on September 16, 2018]).
  20. ^ World Championships. IFSC, accessed September 17, 2018 .