Speed climbing
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/34/Climbing_World_Championships_2018_Speed_%28DSC09055%29.jpg/220px-Climbing_World_Championships_2018_Speed_%28DSC09055%29.jpg)
When speed climbing (also vertical sprint , speed climbing , speed climbing or in short Speed called), it comes to one as quickly as possible route to climb . Speed climbing is carried out both on rock and on artificial walls (mostly in the form of competitions ).
For success in speed climbing, speed and maximum strength , speed , maximum grip and step precision and the ability to precisely memorize the movements of the route are important.
rock
Whereas in the past, speed was primarily necessary for alpine climbing to minimize dangers such as falling rocks and sudden changes in the weather , today it is sometimes the only goal of an ascent. Speed climbing on natural rock often involves technical climbing .
Important routes with speed records
- The Nose : On October 23, 2017, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set Hans Florine and Alex Honnold's record of 2012 (2:23:46) with 2:19:44 . The latter managed to break the 2-hour mark on the nose together with Tommy Caldwell in 2018 : On June 6, 2018, they set the new record with 1 hour 58 minutes. Speed attempts on this route were among other things a topic in the film Am Limit .
- Heckmair route : Ueli Steck climbed the 1650 meter high and around 4 kilometer long route in the north face of the Eiger in winter 2008 in a time of 2 hours and 48 minutes, free solo . This record was beaten on April 20, 2011 by the Swiss Dani Arnold with a time of 2 hours and 28 minutes. On November 18, 2015, Steck managed to beat the time again, climbing the north face in 2 hours and 22 minutes.
Competitions
Speed climbing is one of the three main disciplines of competitive sport climbing . The aim is to climb a given route safely in top rope in the shortest possible time .
It is climbed in the knockout system , i.e. H. two athletes start at the same time on two identical routes. After one round, the routes are swapped so that every athlete has to climb both routes. This ensures equal opportunities if the two routes are not completely identical despite all the care. The average time of the two athletes is compared from the two runs; the faster one wins or qualifies for the next round.
The routes at official speed climbing competitions are 15 meters long and overhanging by 5 degrees. The wall and the sequence of grips have been standardized since the 2005 World Cup , so there have been world record times since then (currently less than 7 seconds for women and less than 6 seconds for men). It is also possible for the athletes to prepare specifically for the movement sequences required on the route. The host of the international competitions is the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC)
The IOC announced in March 2017 that Speed Climbing in the Olympic combined together with bouldering and lead climbing part of the Olympic program at the Summer Games in 2020 in Tokyo will be. There will be 20 athletes at a time, whereby a maximum of two women and two men from the same country can qualify.
World cup
→ Main articles: List of overall world cup winners in climbing and list of world cup winners in climbing
The overall World Cup winners in speed climbing according to the IFSC
year | Men | Women |
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1998 |
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1999 |
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2000 |
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2001 |
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2002 |
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2003 |
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2004 |
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2005 |
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2006 |
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2007 |
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2008 |
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2009 |
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2010 |
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2011 |
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2012 |
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2013 |
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2014 |
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2015 |
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2016 |
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2017 |
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2018 |
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Records
World records
The lists include the world records in speed climbing which are recognized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and which were achieved on corresponding standardized speed walls.
15 meters
Men's
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
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July 5, 2009 |
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6.64 | Qinghai |
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Oct 29, 2010 |
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6.40 | Huaiji |
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July 12, 2011 |
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6.37 | Chamonix |
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July 23, 2011 |
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6.26 | Arco |
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Oct 13, 2012 |
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6.08 | Xining |
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Oct 13, 2012 |
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5.98 | Xining |
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Oct 13, 2012 |
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5.88 | Xining |
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13 Sep 2014 |
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5.60 | Gijón |
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Apr 30, 2017 |
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5.48 | Nanjing |
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Ladies
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
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4th July 2009 |
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9.04 | Qinghai |
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July 12, 2012 |
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8.53 | Chamonix |
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Sep 15 2012 |
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8.37 | Paris |
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Oct 13, 2012 |
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8.33 | Xining |
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Oct 19, 2013 |
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7.85 | Wujiang |
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July 22, 2017 |
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7.32 | Wroclaw |
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Apr 22, 2018 |
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7.32 | Moscow |
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April 26, 2019 |
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7.101 | Chongqing |
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19th Oct 2019 |
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6.99 | Xiamen |
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German records
The lists include the German records in speed climbing which are recognized by the German Alpine Club and which were achieved on corresponding standardized speed walls.
15 meters
Men's
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
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Apr 17, 2011 |
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8.58 | Milan |
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May 21, 2011 |
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8.54 | Edinburgh |
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July 3, 2011 |
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7.91 | Munich |
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July 7, 2013 |
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7.80 | Munich |
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Oct 15, 2017 |
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7.28 | Xiamen |
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July 21, 2018 |
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7.19 | Hilden |
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13 Sep 2018 |
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7,079 | innsbruck |
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April 26, 2019 |
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6.763 | Chong Quin |
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5th July 2019 |
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6.671 | Villars |
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Nov 28, 2019 |
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6.456 | Toulouse |
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Ladies
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
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Apr 17, 2011 |
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12.80 | Milan |
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July 3, 2011 |
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12.01 | Munich |
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July 22, 2017 |
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11.14 | Saarlouis |
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6th July 2018 |
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10.64 | Villars |
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Apr. 2019 |
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9.96 | Chongqing |
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May 26, 2019 |
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9.52 | Kempten |
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June 22, 2019 |
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9.162 | Duisburg |
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22 Sep 2019 |
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8,640 | augsburg |
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10 meters
Men's
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
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July 15, 2010 |
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5.60 | Friedrichshafen |
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July 8, 2011 |
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4.82 | Überlingen |
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Ladies
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
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July 15, 2010 |
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8.56 | Friedrichshafen |
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July 8, 2011 |
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7.71 | Überlingen |
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July 16, 2011 |
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7.18 | Friedrichshafen |
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Web links
- IFSC rules for international sport climbing competitions 2017 , Chapter 8: Speed. International Foundation of Sport Climbing (PDF file, 1.7 MB, English)
- Current IFSC world rankings in men's speed climbing
- Current IFSC world rankings in women's speed climbing
Individual evidence
- ↑ Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds Set New Nose Speed Record. Accessed December 4, 2017
- ↑ New nose speed record on bergstieg.com
- ↑ Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Set Sub-2-Hour Nose Speed Record . In: Climbing Magazine . ( climbing.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ Speed record: Honnold and Caldwell climb "The Nose" in under two hours . In: Spiegel Online . June 8, 2018 ( spiegel.de [accessed September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ Report on www.bergstieg.com , accessed on February 10, 2010
- ↑ New speed record on the north face of the Eiger by Dani Arnold ( Memento of the original from April 26, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. from kletter.de , accessed on May 26, 2011
- ↑ Ueli Steck Takes Back Eiger Speed Record . In: Climbing Magazine . ( climbing.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ Blick: Six minutes faster: Ueli Steck takes back the Eiger record . ( blick.ch [accessed on September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ IFSC Speed Route Plans
- ↑ Report on www.klettern.de , accessed on September 16, 2018
- ↑ IFSC Rankings
- ↑ Overview of the world records on the IFSC website , accessed on October 21, 2019.
- ↑ a b c rankings. Retrieved July 25, 2018 (UK English).
- ^ DAV competitions
- ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) 2018 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved September 17, 2018 (UK English).
- ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - Chong Quin (CHN) 2019 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved April 26, 2019 (UK English).
- ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup - Villars (CHE) 2019 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved July 8, 2019 (UK English).
- ↑ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Qualification MEN speed. Retrieved July 8, 2019 (UK English).
- ↑ German Speed Championship 2017 - Saarlouis, Rocklands Climbing Center. Retrieved December 30, 2017 .
- ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup Speed - Villars (CHE) 2018. Accessed on September 19, 2018 .
- ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup Speed - Chong Quin (CHN) 2019. Accessed April 26, 2019 .
- ↑ Link is missing!
- ↑ German Championship Olympic Combined 2019 - Augsburg. In: www.digitalrock.de. DAV, accessed September 30, 2019 .