Speed climbing
When speed climbing (also vertical sprint , speed climbing , speed climbing or in short Speed called), it comes to one as quickly as possible route to climb . Speed climbing is carried out both on rock and on artificial walls (mostly in the form of competitions ).
For success in speed climbing, speed and maximum strength , speed , maximum grip and step precision and the ability to precisely memorize the movements of the route are important.
rock
Whereas in the past, speed was primarily necessary for alpine climbing to minimize dangers such as falling rocks and sudden changes in the weather , today it is sometimes the only goal of an ascent. Speed climbing on natural rock often involves technical climbing .
Important routes with speed records
- The Nose : On October 23, 2017, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set Hans Florine and Alex Honnold's record of 2012 (2:23:46) with 2:19:44 . The latter managed to break the 2-hour mark on the nose together with Tommy Caldwell in 2018 : On June 6, 2018, they set the new record with 1 hour 58 minutes. Speed attempts on this route were among other things a topic in the film Am Limit .
- Heckmair route : Ueli Steck climbed the 1650 meter high and around 4 kilometer long route in the north face of the Eiger in winter 2008 in a time of 2 hours and 48 minutes, free solo . This record was beaten on April 20, 2011 by the Swiss Dani Arnold with a time of 2 hours and 28 minutes. On November 18, 2015, Steck managed to beat the time again, climbing the north face in 2 hours and 22 minutes.
Competitions
Speed climbing is one of the three main disciplines of competitive sport climbing . The aim is to climb a given route safely in top rope in the shortest possible time .
It is climbed in the knockout system , i.e. H. two athletes start at the same time on two identical routes. After one round, the routes are swapped so that every athlete has to climb both routes. This ensures equal opportunities if the two routes are not completely identical despite all the care. The average time of the two athletes is compared from the two runs; the faster one wins or qualifies for the next round.
The routes at official speed climbing competitions are 15 meters long and overhanging by 5 degrees. The wall and the sequence of grips have been standardized since the 2005 World Cup , so there have been world record times since then (currently less than 7 seconds for women and less than 6 seconds for men). It is also possible for the athletes to prepare specifically for the movement sequences required on the route. The host of the international competitions is the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC)
The IOC announced in March 2017 that Speed Climbing in the Olympic combined together with bouldering and lead climbing part of the Olympic program at the Summer Games in 2020 in Tokyo will be. There will be 20 athletes at a time, whereby a maximum of two women and two men from the same country can qualify.
World cup
→ Main articles: List of overall world cup winners in climbing and list of world cup winners in climbing
The overall World Cup winners in speed climbing according to the IFSC
year | Men | Women |
---|---|---|
1998 | Andrey Vedic Sea | Olga Zakharova |
1999 | Tomasz Oleks | Olga Zakharova |
2000 | Andrey Vedic Sea | Olena Ryepko |
2001 | Maksym Styenkovy | Olga Zakharova |
2002 | Alexander Peshekhonov | Olena Ryepko |
2003 | Tomasz Oleks | Valentina Yurina |
2004 | Sergey Sinitsyn | Tatiana Ruyga |
2005 | Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky | Anna Stenkovaya |
2006 | Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky | Tatiana Ruyga |
2007 | Sergey Sinitsy | Tatiana Ruyga |
2008 | Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky | Edyta Ropek |
2009 | Sergey Sinitsy | Edyta Ropek |
2010 | Stanislav Kokorin | Yuliya Levochkina |
2011 | Lukasz Swir | Edyta Ropek |
2012 | Stanislav Kokorin | Alina Gaidamakina |
2013 | Stanislav Kokorin | Alina Gaidamakina |
2014 | Danyil Boldyrev | Mariia Krasavina |
2015 | QiXin Zhong | Mariia Krasavina |
2016 | Marcin Dzienski | Iuliia Kaplina |
2017 | Vladislav Deulin | Anouck Jaubert |
2018 | Danyil Boldyrev | Anouck Jaubert |
Records
World records
The lists include the world records in speed climbing which are recognized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and which were achieved on corresponding standardized speed walls.
15 meters
Men's
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
---|---|---|---|---|
July 5, 2009 | Qixin Zhong | 6.64 | Qinghai | People's Republic of China |
Oct 29, 2010 | Qixin Zhong | 6.40 | Huaiji | People's Republic of China |
July 12, 2011 | Sergey Abdrakhmanov | 6.37 | Chamonix | France |
July 23, 2011 | Qixin Zhong | 6.26 | Arco | Italy |
Oct 13, 2012 | Stanislav Kokorin | 6.08 | Xining | People's Republic of China |
Oct 13, 2012 | Sergey Abdrakhmanov | 5.98 | Xining | People's Republic of China |
Oct 13, 2012 | Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii | 5.88 | Xining | People's Republic of China |
13 Sep 2014 | Danyl Boldyrev | 5.60 | Gijón | Spain |
Apr 30, 2017 | Reza Alipourshenazandifar | 5.48 | Nanjing | People's Republic of China |
Ladies
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
---|---|---|---|---|
4th July 2009 | Cuilian He | 9.04 | Qinghai | People's Republic of China |
July 12, 2012 | Yuliya Levochkina | 8.53 | Chamonix | France |
Sep 15 2012 | Yuliya Levochkina | 8.37 | Paris | France |
Oct 13, 2012 | Ester Bruckner | 8.33 | Xining | People's Republic of China |
Oct 19, 2013 | Iuliia Kaplina | 7.85 | Wujiang | People's Republic of China |
July 22, 2017 | Iuliia Kaplina | 7.32 | Wroclaw | Poland |
Apr 22, 2018 | Anouck Jaubert | 7.32 | Moscow | Russia |
April 26, 2019 | Yiling Song | 7.101 | Chongqing | People's Republic of China |
19th Oct 2019 | Aries Susanti Rahayu | 6.99 | Xiamen | People's Republic of China |
German records
The lists include the German records in speed climbing which are recognized by the German Alpine Club and which were achieved on corresponding standardized speed walls.
15 meters
Men's
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Apr 17, 2011 | Fabian Bosler | 8.58 | Milan | Italy |
May 21, 2011 | Simon Bosler | 8.54 | Edinburgh | United Kingdom |
July 3, 2011 | Fabian Bosler | 7.91 | Munich | Germany |
July 7, 2013 | Joshua Bosler | 7.80 | Munich | Germany |
Oct 15, 2017 | Jan Hojer | 7.28 | Xiamen | People's Republic of China |
July 21, 2018 | Jan Hojer | 7.19 | Hilden | Germany |
13 Sep 2018 | Jan Hojer | 7,079 | innsbruck | Austria |
April 26, 2019 | Jan Hojer | 6.763 | Chong Quin | People's Republic of China |
5th July 2019 | Jan Hojer | 6.671 | Villars | Switzerland |
Nov 28, 2019 | Jan Hojer | 6.456 | Toulouse | France |
Ladies
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Apr 17, 2011 | Isabell Haag | 12.80 | Milan | Italy |
July 3, 2011 | Isabell Haag | 12.01 | Munich | Germany |
July 22, 2017 | Florence Grünewald | 11.14 | Saarlouis | Germany |
6th July 2018 | Alma's best father | 10.64 | Villars | Switzerland |
Apr. 2019 | Alma's best father | 9.96 | Chongqing | People's Republic of China |
May 26, 2019 | Franziska Ritter | 9.52 | Kempten | Germany |
June 22, 2019 | Franziska Ritter | 9.162 | Duisburg | Germany |
22 Sep 2019 | Alma's best father | 8,640 | augsburg | Germany |
10 meters
Men's
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
---|---|---|---|---|
July 15, 2010 | Maximilian Porscha | 5.60 | Friedrichshafen | Germany |
July 8, 2011 | Maximilian Porscha | 4.82 | Überlingen | Germany |
Ladies
date | Surname | Time (s) | place | |
---|---|---|---|---|
July 15, 2010 | Isabell Haag | 8.56 | Friedrichshafen | Germany |
July 8, 2011 | Isabell Haag | 7.71 | Überlingen | Germany |
July 16, 2011 | Isabell Haag | 7.18 | Friedrichshafen | Germany |
Web links
- IFSC rules for international sport climbing competitions 2017 , Chapter 8: Speed. International Foundation of Sport Climbing (PDF file, 1.7 MB, English)
- Current IFSC world rankings in men's speed climbing
- Current IFSC world rankings in women's speed climbing
Individual evidence
- ↑ Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds Set New Nose Speed Record. Accessed December 4, 2017
- ↑ New nose speed record on bergstieg.com
- ↑ Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Set Sub-2-Hour Nose Speed Record . In: Climbing Magazine . ( climbing.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ Speed record: Honnold and Caldwell climb "The Nose" in under two hours . In: Spiegel Online . June 8, 2018 ( spiegel.de [accessed September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ Report on www.bergstieg.com , accessed on February 10, 2010
- ↑ New speed record on the north face of the Eiger by Dani Arnold ( Memento of the original from April 26, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. from kletter.de , accessed on May 26, 2011
- ↑ Ueli Steck Takes Back Eiger Speed Record . In: Climbing Magazine . ( climbing.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ Blick: Six minutes faster: Ueli Steck takes back the Eiger record . ( blick.ch [accessed on September 8, 2018]).
- ↑ IFSC Speed Route Plans
- ↑ Report on www.klettern.de , accessed on September 16, 2018
- ↑ IFSC Rankings
- ↑ Overview of the world records on the IFSC website , accessed on October 21, 2019.
- ↑ a b c rankings. Retrieved July 25, 2018 (UK English).
- ^ DAV competitions
- ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) 2018 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved September 17, 2018 (UK English).
- ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - Chong Quin (CHN) 2019 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved April 26, 2019 (UK English).
- ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup - Villars (CHE) 2019 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved July 8, 2019 (UK English).
- ↑ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Qualification MEN speed. Retrieved July 8, 2019 (UK English).
- ↑ German Speed Championship 2017 - Saarlouis, Rocklands Climbing Center. Retrieved December 30, 2017 .
- ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup Speed - Villars (CHE) 2018. Accessed on September 19, 2018 .
- ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup Speed - Chong Quin (CHN) 2019. Accessed April 26, 2019 .
- ↑ Link is missing!
- ↑ German Championship Olympic Combined 2019 - Augsburg. In: www.digitalrock.de. DAV, accessed September 30, 2019 .