Speed ​​climbing

Climbing World Championship 2018 in Innsbruck

Speedcup 2012 in Munich

When speed climbing (also vertical sprint , speed climbing , speed climbing or in short Speed called), it comes to one as quickly as possible route to climb . Speed ​​climbing is carried out both on rock and on artificial walls (mostly in the form of competitions ).

For success in speed climbing, speed and maximum strength , speed , maximum grip and step precision and the ability to precisely memorize the movements of the route are important.

rock

Whereas in the past, speed was primarily necessary for alpine climbing to minimize dangers such as falling rocks and sudden changes in the weather , today it is sometimes the only goal of an ascent. Speed ​​climbing on natural rock often involves technical climbing .

Important routes with speed records

• The Nose : On October 23, 2017, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set Hans Florine and Alex Honnold's record of 2012 (2:23:46) with 2:19:44 . The latter managed to break the 2-hour mark on the nose together with Tommy Caldwell in 2018 : On June 6, 2018, they set the new record with 1 hour 58 minutes. Speed ​​attempts on this route were among other things a topic in the film Am Limit .
• Heckmair route : Ueli Steck climbed the 1650 meter high and around 4 kilometer long route in the north face of the Eiger in winter 2008 in a time of 2 hours and 48 minutes, free solo . This record was beaten on April 20, 2011 by the Swiss Dani Arnold with a time of 2 hours and 28 minutes. On November 18, 2015, Steck managed to beat the time again, climbing the north face in 2 hours and 22 minutes.

Competitions

Speed ​​climbing is one of the three main disciplines of competitive sport climbing . The aim is to climb a given route safely in top rope in the shortest possible time .

It is climbed in the knockout system , i.e. H. two athletes start at the same time on two identical routes. After one round, the routes are swapped so that every athlete has to climb both routes. This ensures equal opportunities if the two routes are not completely identical despite all the care. The average time of the two athletes is compared from the two runs; the faster one wins or qualifies for the next round.

The routes at official speed climbing competitions are 15 meters long and overhanging by 5 degrees. The wall and the sequence of grips have been standardized since the 2005 World Cup , so there have been world record times since then (currently less than 7 seconds for women and less than 6 seconds for men). It is also possible for the athletes to prepare specifically for the movement sequences required on the route. The host of the international competitions is the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC)

The IOC announced in March 2017 that Speed Climbing in the Olympic combined together with bouldering and lead climbing part of the Olympic program at the Summer Games in 2020 in Tokyo will be. There will be 20 athletes at a time, whereby a maximum of two women and two men from the same country can qualify.

World cup

→ Main articles: List of overall world cup winners in climbing and list of world cup winners in climbing

The overall World Cup winners in speed climbing according to the IFSC

year	Men	Women
1998	Andrey Vedic Sea	Olga Zakharova
1999	Tomasz Oleks	Olga Zakharova
2000	Andrey Vedic Sea	Olena Ryepko
2001	Maksym Styenkovy	Olga Zakharova
2002	Alexander Peshekhonov	Olena Ryepko
2003	Tomasz Oleks	Valentina Yurina
2004	Sergey Sinitsyn	Tatiana Ruyga
2005	Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky	Anna Stenkovaya
2006	Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky	Tatiana Ruyga
2007	Sergey Sinitsy	Tatiana Ruyga
2008	Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky	Edyta Ropek
2009	Sergey Sinitsy	Edyta Ropek
2010	Stanislav Kokorin	Yuliya Levochkina
2011	Lukasz Swir	Edyta Ropek
2012	Stanislav Kokorin	Alina Gaidamakina
2013	Stanislav Kokorin	Alina Gaidamakina
2014	Danyil Boldyrev	Mariia Krasavina
2015	QiXin Zhong	Mariia Krasavina
2016	Marcin Dzienski	Iuliia Kaplina
2017	Vladislav Deulin	Anouck Jaubert
2018	Danyil Boldyrev	Anouck Jaubert

Records

World records

The lists include the world records in speed climbing which are recognized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and which were achieved on corresponding standardized speed walls.

15 meters

Men's

date	Surname	Time (s)	place
0July 5, 2009	Qixin Zhong	6.64	Qinghai	People's Republic of China
Oct 29, 2010	Qixin Zhong	6.40	Huaiji	People's Republic of China
July 12, 2011	Sergey Abdrakhmanov	6.37	Chamonix	France
July 23, 2011	Qixin Zhong	6.26	Arco	Italy
Oct 13, 2012	Stanislav Kokorin	6.08	Xining	People's Republic of China
Oct 13, 2012	Sergey Abdrakhmanov	5.98	Xining	People's Republic of China
Oct 13, 2012	Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii	5.88	Xining	People's Republic of China
13 Sep 2014	Danyl Boldyrev	5.60	Gijón	Spain
Apr 30, 2017	Reza Alipourshenazandifar	5.48	Nanjing	People's Republic of China

Ladies

date	Surname	Time (s)	place
04th July 2009	Cuilian He	9.04	Qinghai	People's Republic of China
July 12, 2012	Yuliya Levochkina	8.53	Chamonix	France
Sep 15 2012	Yuliya Levochkina	8.37	Paris	France
Oct 13, 2012	Ester Bruckner	8.33	Xining	People's Republic of China
Oct 19, 2013	Iuliia Kaplina	7.85	Wujiang	People's Republic of China
July 22, 2017	Iuliia Kaplina	7.32	Wroclaw	Poland
Apr 22, 2018	Anouck Jaubert	7.32	Moscow	Russia
April 26, 2019	Yiling Song	7.101	Chongqing	People's Republic of China
19th Oct 2019	Aries Susanti Rahayu	6.99	Xiamen	People's Republic of China

German records

The lists include the German records in speed climbing which are recognized by the German Alpine Club and which were achieved on corresponding standardized speed walls.

15 meters

Men's

date	Surname	Time (s)	place
Apr 17, 2011	Fabian Bosler	8.58	Milan	Italy
May 21, 2011	Simon Bosler	8.54	Edinburgh	United Kingdom
0July 3, 2011	Fabian Bosler	7.91	Munich	Germany
0July 7, 2013	Joshua Bosler	7.80	Munich	Germany
Oct 15, 2017	Jan Hojer	7.28	Xiamen	People's Republic of China
July 21, 2018	Jan Hojer	7.19	Hilden	Germany
13 Sep 2018	Jan Hojer	7,079	innsbruck	Austria
April 26, 2019	Jan Hojer	6.763	Chong Quin	People's Republic of China
05th July 2019	Jan Hojer	6.671	Villars	Switzerland
Nov 28, 2019	Jan Hojer	6.456	Toulouse	France

Ladies

date	Surname	Time (s)	place
Apr 17, 2011	Isabell Haag	12.80	Milan	Italy
0July 3, 2011	Isabell Haag	12.01	Munich	Germany
July 22, 2017	Florence Grünewald	11.14	Saarlouis	Germany
06th July 2018	Alma's best father	10.64	Villars	Switzerland
Apr. 2019	Alma's best father	09.96	Chongqing	People's Republic of China
May 26, 2019	Franziska Ritter	09.52	Kempten	Germany
June 22, 2019	Franziska Ritter	09.162	Duisburg	Germany
22 Sep 2019	Alma's best father	08,640	augsburg	Germany

10 meters

Men's

date	Surname	Time (s)	place
July 15, 2010	Maximilian Porscha	5.60	Friedrichshafen	Germany
0July 8, 2011	Maximilian Porscha	4.82	Überlingen	Germany

Ladies

date	Surname	Time (s)	place
July 15, 2010	Isabell Haag	8.56	Friedrichshafen	Germany
0July 8, 2011	Isabell Haag	7.71	Überlingen	Germany
July 16, 2011	Isabell Haag	7.18	Friedrichshafen	Germany

Web links

• IFSC rules for international sport climbing competitions 2017 , Chapter 8: Speed. International Foundation of Sport Climbing (PDF file, 1.7 MB, English)
• Current IFSC world rankings in men's speed climbing
• Current IFSC world rankings in women's speed climbing

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds Set New Nose Speed ​​Record. Accessed December 4, 2017
2. ↑ New nose speed record on bergstieg.com
3. ↑ Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Set Sub-2-Hour Nose Speed ​​Record . In: Climbing Magazine . ( climbing.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
4. ↑ Speed ​​record: Honnold and Caldwell climb "The Nose" in under two hours . In: Spiegel Online . June 8, 2018 ( spiegel.de [accessed September 8, 2018]).
5. ↑ Report on www.bergstieg.com , accessed on February 10, 2010
6. ↑ New speed record on the north face of the Eiger by Dani Arnold ( Memento of the original from April 26, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. from kletter.de , accessed on May 26, 2011 
7. ↑ Ueli Steck Takes Back Eiger Speed ​​Record . In: Climbing Magazine . ( climbing.com [accessed September 8, 2018]).
8. ↑ Blick: Six minutes faster: Ueli Steck takes back the Eiger record . ( blick.ch [accessed on September 8, 2018]).
9. ↑ IFSC Speed ​​Route Plans
10. ↑ Report on www.klettern.de , accessed on September 16, 2018
11. ↑ IFSC Rankings
12. ↑ Overview of the world records on the IFSC website , accessed on October 21, 2019.
13. ↑ ^{a b c} rankings. Retrieved July 25, 2018 (UK English). 
14. ^ DAV competitions
15. ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) 2018 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved September 17, 2018 (UK English). 
16. ↑ IFSC Climbing World Championships - Chong Quin (CHN) 2019 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved April 26, 2019 (UK English). 
17. ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup - Villars (CHE) 2019 - General result MEN speed. Retrieved July 8, 2019 (UK English). 
18. ↑ IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Qualification MEN speed. Retrieved July 8, 2019 (UK English). 
19. ↑ German Speed ​​Championship 2017 - Saarlouis, Rocklands Climbing Center. Retrieved December 30, 2017 . 
20. ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup Speed ​​- Villars (CHE) 2018. Accessed on September 19, 2018 . 
21. ↑ IFSC Climbing Worldcup Speed ​​- Chong Quin (CHN) 2019. Accessed April 26, 2019 . 
22. ↑ Link is missing!
23. ↑ German Championship Olympic Combined 2019 - Augsburg. In: www.digitalrock.de. DAV, accessed September 30, 2019 .