Dani Arnold

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Dani Arnold (2016)

Dani Arnold (born February 22, 1984 in the canton of Uri ) is a Swiss extreme mountaineer .

biography

Dani Arnold grew up in the Uri mountain settlement Biel ob Bürglen in the Schächental . He started free solo ice climbing when he was around 20, although his parents did not support him. He became known to the general public primarily for his speed record when he climbed the north face of the Eiger in 2011. He climbed the wall solo in 2 hours and 28 minutes and was thus 20 minutes faster than the previous record holder Ueli Steck , who then undercut Arnold's time in 2015 by 6 minutes.

Arnold was already known in the climbing scene before 2011, among other things for the speed record of 1 hour and 35 minutes on the west ridge of the Salbitschijen . Furthermore, in 2010, with Stephan Siegrist and Thomas Senf, he managed the first winter ascent of the Torre Egger in Patagonia.

In January 2012 Arnold climbed the mixed climbing route The Hurting in Scotland as the first non-Scotch red point . The Hurting is considered to be one of the world's most difficult trad mixed climbing routes.

In April 2013 he and David Lama made the first ascent of the central headwall on the 1,500-meter-high east face of Moos Tooth in Alaska. The two routes called Bird of Prey (6a, M7 +, 90 °, A2) took around 48 hours.

On April 22, 2015, he managed the fastest solo ascent of the Matterhorn north face in 1h 46min.

At the end of July 2018, he set a new record time on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses . He climbed the Walker pillar (4208 meters) solo in the Mont Blanc massif via the Cassin route in 2:04 hours. With this, he holds the speed record and replaced Ueli Steck, who had needed 2:21 hours for another route in the winter of 2008. In addition to the speed record on the Matterhorn, Arnold holds two of the three speed records of the Great North Face , while the record is held by Ueli Steck on the Eiger .

Arnold is a mountain guide , married and lives in Bürglen.

documentation

  • Matthias Affolter: Mountains in your head. Film format, 2014, 93 min.

Publications

  • Why all that? Records & reflections from extreme alpinist Dani Arnold. 2018.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. Christian Thiele: Dani Arnold: "Too slow is dangerous" Interview in: alpin.de 6/2016.
  2. Emil Bischofberger: You know: This stone has to hold, otherwise you will be dead , Interview, Tages-Anzeiger , December 27, 2018, pp. 28-29.
  3. a b Olivier Joliat: “Yes, I take risks” In: Coop newspaper No. 6 of February 4, 2014, p. 135, (PDF).
  4. Six minutes faster: Ueli Steck recovers the Eiger record. blick.ch, accessed on November 18, 2015 .
  5. ^ 'Swiss machine' Ueli Steck reclaims the Eiger record. SWI swissinfo.ch, accessed on November 18, 2015 .
  6. ^ The Hurting XI 11 - Trad climbing in the Scottish highlands. from bergstieg.com, accessed March 4, 2012.
  7. David Lama and Dani Arnold first climb the route. ( Memento from May 6, 2017 in the Internet Archive )
  8. Dani Arnold sets a speed record on the Grandes Jorasses north face. In: lacrux.com on August 14, 2018, accessed December 27, 2018.
  9. Tim Ehrensperger: Swiss climber breaks Ueli Steck's speed record. In: Berner Zeitung .ch from August 15, 2018, accessed on December 27, 2018.
  10. ^ Website for the film