David Lama

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David Lama (2014)

David Lama (born August 4, 1990 in Innsbruck ; † April 16, 2019 in Banff National Park , Canada ) was an Austrian sport climber and alpinist . He was considered an exceptional talent worldwide.

Life

David Lama's father comes from the Mount Everest region in Nepal , his mother from Innsbruck. From the age of six, David climbed in the sport climbing group of the Austrian Alpine Club in the Innsbruck section . David Lama got into climbing after attending a climbing course with Peter Habeler at the age of five , who recognized his talent. His first trainer was Reinhold Scherer, who at the time looked after a small group of eight to ten climbing children. His nickname "Fuzzy" comes from this time. He competed in his first competition at the age of seven as the youngest participant in the Hohe-Munde-Cup in Telfs , where he came second. At the age of nine he already won the Junior Cup of the Alpine Club. Lama climbed his first 8a route, “Kindergarden” in Slovenia, when he was ten. At the time, he was the youngest climber to manage an ascent of this level of difficulty.

In 2004 and 2005 he won the overall ranking of the European Youth Cup as well as the World Youth Championships in Edinburgh and Beijing . In 2006, he was the first climber who managed to win both a bouldering world cup and a lead climbing world cup in his first season in the World Cup . At the same time, he became the youngest World Cup winner in history.

After further victories in competitions, he has been concentrating on alpinism since 2010 , where he achieved difficult first ascents with Peter Ortner and Stephan Siegrist, among others . One of his greatest successes was the first free ascent of the compressor route on Cerro Torre with Peter Ortner in 2012. For this project, the two were honored with a special award at the Piolet d'Or 2013 . From the resulting film material, the documentary Cerro Torre - Not the touch of a chance was produced, which was awarded the audience award at the St. Anton Film Festival in August 2014 .

Both in 2015 and 2016, David Lama and Conrad Anker attempted to climb the 6,895 meter high Lunag Ri in Nepal for the first time via the west pillar. However, both companies failed. After Conrad Anker suffered a heart attack on the second attempt during the ascent and the two climbers had to cancel the venture prematurely, Lama decided three days later to venture the ascent solo, but had to turn back just below the summit. On October 25, 2018, he managed the first ascent of Lunag Ri single- handedly , for which he was posthumously awarded a Piolet d'Or in 2019 .

For years Lama received weather forecasts from Innsbruck meteorologist Charly Gabl .

David Lama last lived in Götzens near Innsbruck.

Avalanche accident in Canada

David Lama died together with Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley in an avalanche on the east face of Howse Peak in Banff National Park . The rope team has been missing since April 16, 2019. The Canadian National Park Authority assumed early on after reconnaissance flights by helicopter that the climbers had died. Due to the bad weather , the bodies of the three climbers could not be recovered until April 21, 2019. The group had reached the summit on a new combined rock and ice route in the left section of the wall and was descending a rope-free descent through a snow channel when they were hit and carried away by the avalanche. The height of the fall was about 800 meters. The cause of the avalanche is Wecht fracture suspected. This assumption is supported by the testimony of a witness who accidentally observed the wall from the highway, as well as the thin layer of snow (maximum 90 centimeters) that covered the three bodies.

David Lama's ashes were buried in Kathmandu , Nepal , according to the Buddhist Sherpa culture .

Sporting successes

David Lama at the “1. Free Solo Masters "in Lienz (September 2014)

youth

  • Youth European Cup overall winner 2004 and 2005
  • Youth World Champion 2004 and 2005

Championships

  • European champion in lead in 2006
  • 2007 European champion in bouldering
  • 3rd place at the World Championships 2009 Xining , China (lead)

Boulder World Cup

1st place at

  • UIAA Climbing World Cup , Hall, 2006
  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Fiera di Primiero, 2008
  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Reunion, 2008

Leading World Cup

1st place at

  • UIAA Climbing World Cup, Dresden, 2006
  • IFSC World Cup, Penne, 2006
  • IFSC World Cup, Kranj, 2006
  • IFSC World Cup, Imst, 2007
  • IFSC World Cup, Imst, 2008

rock

On-sight climbing:

  • 2004: Gorges du Loup (France). "Devers Satanique" 10- (8a +)
  • 2006: Spain. numerous routes up to 10+ (8b +)
  • 2006: Yosemite , USA. Route Alien (5.12b)
  • 2011: Great pinnacle in Italy. Camillotto Pellissier route (8a +)

Red point ascents and Alpine activities:

  • 2004: Gorges du Loup (France). "7pm JP Chaud" 8c (10 + / 11-), his first route in this degree
  • 2007: Niederthai (Austria). In a single day he climbed “Gondor” 11- (8c), “Mordor” 11- / 11 (8c + / 9a) and “In Memo Reini” 11- (8c)
  • 2008: North face of the Sagwandspitze in the Zillertal. Lama and Jorg Verhoeven managed the first ascent of the Desperation of the Northface route (820 m, 7b, 17 pitches)
  • 2008: Cochamò Valley in Chile . Several first ascents on the granite walls bordering the valley with Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Jorg Verhoeven
  • 2009: Pamir Altai ( Kyrgyzstan ). First free ascent of the Asan (4230 m) over the northwest face, together with Nina Caprez , Giovanni Quirici, Stephan Siegrist and Rainer Eder
  • 2010: Valle del Laghi (Italy). Lama and Jorg Verhoeven managed the first free ascent of "Brento Centro" (8b, 28 pitches) on Monte Brento , after which they climbed the entire route in one day
  • 2010: Dolomites (Italy). Lama repeated "Bellavista" (11-) on the western pinnacle after a day of trying
  • 2011: Cerro Torre (Patagonia). Lama and Peter Ortner managed the technical ascent of Cerro Torre via the "Compressor Route" IX + / X- (8a)
  • 2011: Eiger north face (Switzerland). Lama climbed the 24 pitches of "Paciencia" (8a), one of the most difficult alpine routes in the Alps, together with Peter Ortner
  • 2011: Kashmir (India). Lama, Stephan Siegrist and Denis Burdet climbed a first ascent, "Yoniverse", on Cerro Kishtwar
  • 2011: Lofer (Austria). Lama repeated " Baptism of Fire" (8b) by Alexander Huber as well as "Stoamandl" (8b), "Donnervogel" (8b) and "Woher Kompass" (8a +)
  • 2011: Rognon du Plan Inferier, France. Lama climbed the American Beauty route (8a +)
  • 2012: Cerro Torre (Patagonia). David Lama and Peter Ortner managed the first ascent of the “Compressor Route” (IX + / X-) on the southeast flank of Cerro Torre without artificial aids in 24 hours
  • 2012: Lama and Ortner managed to climb the Trango Tower (6251 m) in the Karakoram via the Eternal Flame route (IX-; Albert / Güllich). A few days later, the duo reached the summit ridge of the Chogolisa (7665 m) at the eastern end of the Baltoro Glacier
  • 2013: Sagwand (Austria). First winter ascent of the “Schiefer Riss” route on the Sagwand in the Valser Valley, together with Hansjörg Auer and Peter Ortner, from the entrance to the summit in just under 24 hours
  • 2013: Moose's Tooth, Alaska . First ascent of the central headwall on the 1500 m high east face of Moose's Tooth in Alaska with Dani Arnold . The two of them needed around 48 hours for the route known as the “Bird of Prey” (6a, M7 +, 90 °, A2)
  • 2015: Avataara (9a), Lebanon . First ascent in the Baatara Gorge
  • 2017: Bernese Alps (Switzerland). With Peter Habeler from Zillertal, his discoverer and first sponsor, Lama climbed the classic Heckmair tour through the north face of the Eiger
  • 2017: Solu Khumbu (Nepal). With Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel, Lama reached the summit of Ama Dablam (6812 m) on October 15th. The tour was intended to acclimate the trio's second expedition to the southeast pillar of Annapurna III (7555 m) - the expedition was canceled, however, as Auer and Blümel left the project due to safety concerns
  • 2018: Rolwaling Himal (Nepal). First ascent (solo) of Lunag Ri in Nepal over the west pillar, after three attempts (2015, as well as in November 2016, after his partner Conrad Anker suffered a heart attack on the second attempt and both had to turn back)
  • 2018: Solu Khumbu (Nepal). Lama and three Austrian friends climbed the Cholatse (6501 m) via the normal route
  • 2019: Alberta (Canada). Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Jess Roskelley climbed the mixed route Andromeda Strain (M5, 700 m) on Mount Andromeda (3450 m)

Honor

In 2020, a newly described species of butterfly was named by the discoverer Peter Huemer Lamas Nelken-Palpenfalter (Caryocolum lamai). This was discovered in the Alps and only found in a small area in the western Alps of Italy and France. With Lama and two other extraordinary alpinists, the name giver chose as namesake, who "also have a special relation to nature and species protection."

book

Filmography

Web links

Commons : David Lama  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ issuu.com
  2. ↑ ifsc.wavecdn.net
  3. ↑ bergstieg.com
  4. ↑ Holger Kreitling: Above, without. David Lamas fight at Cerro Torre. Die Welt , March 12, 2014, accessed October 1, 2015 .
  5. ↑ Award for climbing Cerro Torre "by fair means" . In: alpenverein.at, accessed on April 22, 2019.
  6. ↑ a b Sebastian Schulke: "The mountain is like a white canvas" . Neue Zürcher Zeitung , December 25, 2016, accessed on December 29, 2016
  7. ↑ a b La Crux climbing magazine: David Lama succeeds first ascent of Lunag Ri. In: La Crux climbing magazine. October 29, 2018, accessed October 29, 2018 .
  8. ↑ Alpin.de: Piolets d'Or for Lama and Auer. In: Alpin.de Adventure Mountain. Bene Benedikt, August 3, 2019, accessed on August 6, 2019 .
  9. ↑ David Lama: Patagonia 2011. In: Personal blog. March 4, 2011, accessed on July 6, 2020 (German).
  10. ↑ Stephanie Geiger: No more hope for missing mountaineers in Canada in: Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung updated on April 19, 2019, accessed on May 6, 2019.
  11. ↑ Death of Lama, Auer and Roskelley confirmed. In: orf.at. Retrieved April 22, 2019 .
  12. ↑ Stephanie Geiger: Controversy after the tragedy on Howse Peak in: Neue Zürcher Zeitung of April 23, 2019, accessed on May 5, 2019.
  13. ↑ David Lama is buried in Nepal. In: Upper Austrian news. April 29, 2019, accessed April 30, 2019 .
  14. ↑ ifsc.wavecdn.net
  15. ^ American Alpine Journal: Asan Expedition 2009. In: AmericanAlpineClub.org. American Alpine Club, March 24, 2010, accessed June 18, 2019 .
  16. ↑ bergstieg.com
  17. ↑ planetmountain.com
  18. ↑ alpin.de
  19. ↑ faz.net- David Lama
  20. ↑ David Lama and Dani Arnold first climb the route ( Memento from May 6, 2017 in the Internet Archive )
  21. ↑ Klaus Molidor: A question of honor. In: Sportaktiv.com. Top Times Medien, July 8, 2017, accessed July 5, 2019 .
  22. ↑ David Lama: An Unexpected Turn. In: davidlama.com. Red Bull Media House, December 21, 2017, accessed June 8, 2019 .
  23. ↑ Martin Schauhuber: David Lama climbs Lunag Ri. In: derstandard.at. Oscar Bronner, November 27, 2018, accessed June 18, 2019 .
  24. ↑ Gripped Magazine: David Lama in the Rockies. In: Gripped.com. GrippedPub, April 10, 2019, accessed June 18, 2019 .
  25. ↑ Butterflies named Messner, Habeler and Lama orf.at, April 29, 2020, accessed April 29, 2020.
  26. ↑ Peter Huemer: Integrative revision of the Caryocolum schleichi species group - a striking example of a temporally changing species concept (Lepidoptera, Gelechiidae) Alpine Entomology 4 (April 23, 2020) pp. 39–63, accessed April 29, 2020 - https : //doi.org/10.3897/alpento.4.50703
personal data
SURNAME Lama, David
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian sports climber and alpinist
DATE OF BIRTH 4th August 1990
PLACE OF BIRTH innsbruck
DATE OF DEATH April 16, 2019
Place of death Banff National Park , Canada