Piolet d'Or

The Piolet d'Or ( French for golden ice ax ) is probably the most important award for exceptional performance in extreme mountain sports . It has been awarded annually since 1991 by the French magazine Montagne Magazine in cooperation with the French extreme mountaineering association Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM).

Since 2009 an honorary award for the life's work of outstanding alpinists has been given. This award bears since 2012 after the first prize winner Walter Bonatti , the term Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement, Walter Bonatti Award .

The jury is made up of prominent mountaineers and alpine journalists, alternating every year. Until 1998 , when the award was introduced, Jean-Claude Marmier , President of the GHM, was an integral part of every jury.

After criticism of the awarding mode and the basic idea of ​​valuing alpine achievements with prizes had been raised during the award ceremony in 2007, the awarding of the award was suspended in 2008. There was criticism again in 2013 after the jury, consisting of Stephen Venables , Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner , Katsutaka Yokoyama and Silvo Karo, awarded all 17 nominated climbers who were in six successful rope teams in 2012.

List of award winners

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• No .: Number of awards
• Year : year of the award ceremony

The respective columns can be sorted by clicking the symbol in the column header.

No.	year	Award winners	mountain	Height (m)	Mountains	power
27	2019	David Lama	Lunag Ri	6,895	Himalayas	First ascent of the west ridge (1500 m, 90 °) of the Lunag Ri, Solo
		Hansjörg Auer (2)	Lupghar Sar West	7.157	Karakoram	First ascent of the west face (1000 m, M4 55 °) of Lupghar Sar West, Solo
		Aleš Česen (2)	Latok I	7.145	Karakoram	Inspection of the north ridge and the south face of Latok I (2500 m, ED +)
		Luka Stražar (2)
		Tom Livingstone
26th	2018	Zdeněk Hák	Hidden Peak	8,068	Karakoram	Opening of the route Satisfaction (2600 m, ED + WI5 + M7) on Hidden Peak, "which for the first time leads through the entire southwest face".
		Marek Holeček (2)
		Kenro Nakajima	Shispare	7,611	Karakoram	First ascent of the northeast flank of the Shispare (2700 m, WI5 M6)
		Kazuya Hiraide
		Frédéric Degoulet	Nuptse II	7,742	Himalayas	Climbing the south face of Nuptse II (2200 m, WI6 M5 +)
		Benjamin Guiguonnet
		Hélias Millerioux
25th	2017	Nick Bullock	Nyainqêntanglha	7,046	Transhimalaya	First ascent of the north pillar (1600 m ED +) of the Nyainqêntanglha southeast (7046 m) .
		Paul Ramsden (4)
		Dmitry Golovchenko (2)	Thalay Sagar	6,904	Himalayas	Opening of the “Moveable Feast” route (1200 m, ED 2, M7, WI 5, VI, A3) on the north face of the Thalay Sagar (6904 m).
		Dmitry Grigoriev
		Sergey Nilov (2)
24	2016	Mykyta Balabanov	Talung	7,348		First ascent of the north-northwest pillar of the Talung (7348 m) in Nepal via the opened route Daddy Magnum Force (1700 m, ED + with a maximum of M6 A3).
		Mychailo Fomin
		Paul Ramsden (3)	Gave thing	6,571		First ascent of the Gave Ding (6571 m) in Nepal via the north face (1600 m, ED +).
		Mick Fowle (3)
		Lise Billon	Cerro Riso Patron	2,550		First ascent of the northeast pillar of Cerro Riso Patron (2550 m) in Chile via the opened Hasta las Webas route (1000 m, ED- with a maximum of AI5 + M5 90 ° X).
		Antoine Moineville
		Diego Simari
		Jerome Sullivan
		Marko Prezelj (4)	Cerro Kishtwar	6,173		First ascent of the east face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173 m) in the Indian Kishtwar Himalayas over the opened route Light Before Wisdom (1200 m, ED + 5.11 WI6 M6 A2).
		Hayden Kennedy
		Manu Pellissier
		Urban Novak
23	2015	Tommy Caldwell	The Fitz Traverse		To the	Crossing the peaks of Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l'S.
		Alex Honnold
		Alexander Gukov	Thamserku	6,623	Himalayas	First ascent over the southwest face
		Alexey Lonchinsky
		Aleš Česen	Hagshu	6,657	Himalayas	First ascent of the 1350 meter high north face
		Luka Lindič
		Marko Prezelj (3)
22nd	2014	Zdeněk Hrubý	Talung	7,439	Himalayas	Ascent of the north face of the Talung in alpine style
		Marek Holeček
		Simon Anthamatten	Kunyang Chhish East Summit	7,400	Karakoram	First ascent over the southwest face
		Hansjörg Auer
		Matthias Auer
		Raphael Slawinski	K6 west summit	7,040	Karakoram	First ascent of the K6 Westgifels via the northwest face
		Ian Welsted
		Ueli Steck (2)	Annapurna	8.091	Himalayas	Solo ascent of the south face
		Mark Allen	Mount Laurens	3,052	Alaska chain	Northeast pillar
		Graham Zimmerman
		Stéphane Benoist	Annapurna	8.091	Himalayas	Separate honor
		Yannick Graziani
21st	2013	Tatsuya Aok	Kyashar	6,770	Himalayas	First ascent of the 2200 m high south pillar in alpine style
		Yasuhiro Hanatani
		Hiroyoshi Manome
		Dmitry Golovchenko	Muztagh Tower	7,283	Karakoram	First ascent of the northeast edge
		Alexander Lange
		Sergey Nilov
		Kyle Dempster	Ogre	7,285	Karakoram	New route over the southeast ridge, the southeast face and the south face
		Hayden Kennedy
		Josh Wharton
		Sandy Allan	Nanga Parbat	8,125	Himalayas	First ascent of the entire Mazenograt
		Rick Allen
		Sébastien Bohin	Kamet	7,756	Himalayas	First ascent of the southwest face
		Didier Jourdain
		Sébastien Moatti
		Sébastien Ratel
		Mick Fowler (2)	Shiva	6,142	Himalayas	First ascent of the northeast ridge ("Bug Shivas")
		Paul Ramsden (2)
20th	2012	Mark Richey	Saser Kangri II	7,513	Karakoram	Four-day first ascent in alpine style ( The Old Breed : WI4, M3 )
		Steve Swenson
		Freddie Wilkinson
		Nejc Marcic	K7 (west summit)	6,615	Karakoram	New route in the west wall ( Dreamers of the Golden Caves : WI5, M5, A2)
		Luka Stražar
		Bjørn-Eivind Årtun ( † )	Torre Egger	2,685	To the	Special prize for the new route in the south face ( Venas Azules : WI6, M5) Årtun was already nominated last year, but died a few weeks before the award ceremony.
		Ole song
19th	2011	Yasushi Okada	Mount Logan	5,959	Elias chain	First ascent of the southeast face ( I-TO : ED +, WI5, M6)
		Katsutaka Yokoyama
		Sean Villanueva	Tingmiakulugssuit			Big wall climbing : Devils Brew new route ( 6c ) and eight other new routes on the west and south coast of Greenland
		Nicolas Favresse
		Olivier Favresse
		Ben Ditto
18th	2010	Denis Urubko	Cho Oyu	8,188	Himalayas	First ascent in the south-east face in alpine style ( Kazakh Dedeshko-Urubko : 6b, A2 / A3) Urubko became the 15th climber on all eight-thousanders with the ascent .
		Boris Dedeshko
		Jed Brown	Xuelian Feng (West Ridge)	6,422	Tian Shan	Climbing the north face of the west ridge ( The Great White Jade Heist : WI5, M6, V)
		Kyle Dempster
		Bruce Normand
17th	2009	Kazuya Hiraide	Kamet	7,756	Himalayas	First ascent of the southeast face in alpine style ( Samurai directe : M5, WI5 +) Taniguchi was the first woman to be awarded the Piolet d'Or.
		Kei Taniguchi
		Fumitaka Ichimura	Kalanka	6,931	Himalayas	First ascent of a route in alpine style in the north face (M5)
		Yusuke Sato
		Kazuki Amano
		Ueli Steck	Tengkangpoche	6,487	Himalayas	First ascent of the north face in alpine style ( Checkmate : M7, WI5, 6 / A0)
		Simon Anthamatten
	2008	Not awarded for services rendered in 2007, i. H. In 2008 no Piolet d'Or was awarded
16	2007	Marko Prezelj (2)	Chomolhari	7,314	Himalayas	First ascent of the northwest ridge (M6, 5c)
		Boris Lorencic
15th	2006	Steve House	Nanga Parbat	8,125	Himalayas	First ascent of the Rupalwand in alpine style on a new route at the central pillar (WI4, M5, 5.9)
		Vince Anderson
14th	2005	Russian expedition	Jannu	7,711	Himalayas	First ascent of the north face in the big wall style (WI4, 6b / A3) Expedition leader Alexander Odintsov is listed in the honor on behalf of the eleven climbers .
13	2004	Valery Babanov (2)	Nuptse Shar I	7,804	Himalayas	First ascent via the southeast pillar (M5, 5b)
		Yuri Koschelenko
12	2003	Mick Fowler	Siguniang Shan	6,650	Qionglai Shan	First ascent of a route over the central couloir of the north face (ED +, AI6, M6, 6b)
		Paul Ramsden
11	2002	Valery Babanov	Meru (central peak)	6.310	Himalayas	First ascent in the single-handedly in the north wall (M5, 6a / A1 / 2)
10	2001	Thomas Huber	Shivling	6,543	Himalayas	First ascent of a route over the direct north pillar ( Shiva's Line : 6b / A4)
		Ivan Wolf
9	2000	Lionel Daudet	Burkett Needle	2,590	Boundary ranges	First ascent of a route in the southeast face ( Voyage des clochards célestes : 7a + / A3)
		Sébastien Foissac
8th	1999	Andrew Lindblade	Thalay Sagar	6,904	Himalayas	First ascent of the north face (WI5, 5.9)
		Athol Whimp
7th	1998	Russian expedition	Makalu	8,485	Himalayas	First ascent of the western flank Expedition leader Sergey Efimow is listed in the honor on behalf of the nine climbers .
6th	1997	Tomaž Humar	Ama Dablam	6,856	Himalayas	First ascent of the north face ( Stane Belak Strauf Memorial Route : AI5, 5c / A2 +)
		Vanja Furlan
5	1996	Andreas Orgler	Mount Bradley		Alaska chain	First ascent of a route in the south face ( Pearl : 6c (VIII -) / A3) and other extreme routes in the vicinity of the Ruth Glacier .
		Heli Neswadba
		Arthur Wutscher
4th	1995	François Marsigny	Col d'Esperanza		To the	New route up to the saddle between Cerro Torre and Cerro Adela ( Col of Hope or Pass der Hoffnung , Marsigny-Parkin : ED +) and a dramatic return during a period of bad weather.
		Andy Parkin
3	1994	French expedition			Pamir	Some first ascents in the Pamir by a junior expedition of the Club Alpin Français , whose members were on average 20 years old.
2	1993	Michel Piola	Torres del Paine (South Tower)	2,500	To the	First ascent of a route in the east face ( Dans l'œil du cyclone : ED +, 6b / A4)
		Vincent Sprungli
1	1992	Marko Prezelj	Kangchenjunga (South Summit)	8,476	Himalayas	First ascent of a route in alpine style on the south pillar and second ascent of the mountain
		Andrej Štremfelj

Honorary award for life's work

Awardees who received the
Piolet d'Or Career or Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement (2009 to 2011) and the
Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement, Walter Bonatti Award (since 2012)

No.	year	Award winners	Selected life's work
11	2019	Krzysztof Wielicki
10	2018	Andrej Štremfelj
09	2017	Jeff Lowe
08th	2016	Wojciech Kurtyka	"Kurtyka's greatest successes include the first winter ascent of the Troll Wall in Norway (1974), the ascent of the Changabang via a new route (1978), the first ascent of the east face of the Dhaulagiri in alpine style (1980), the first ascent on Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak (1983) , the crossing of the north, middle and main peaks of Broad Peak with Jerzy Kukuczka (1984) and the ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV with Robert Schauer (1985). "
07th	2015	Chris Bonington	Most difficult activities in the Alps, the Himalayas and in Patagonia. Many first ascents.
06th	2014	John Roskelley	Did the most difficult tours in the Himalayas and Karakoram , including Dhaulagiri- NO ridge and Nanda-Devi -NW wall. First to climb Gauri Sankar , Great Trango and Uli Biaho Tower .
05	2013	Kurt Diemberger	Stand on six eight-thousanders , including Broad Peak (1957) and Dhaulagiri (1960) as the first to climb. Tirich Mir West IV in alpine style . Climb the three large north faces of the Alps : Eiger north face , Matterhorn north face and the Walker pillar on the Grandes Jorasses .
04th	2012	Robert Paragot	3rd ascent of Grand Capucin east face ( 3838  m ) 1953, first ascent of Aconcagua south face ( 6961  m ) 1953, first ascent of Grand Capucin north face 1955, 2nd ascent of Muztagh Tower ( 7273  m ) a few days after the first ascent in 1956, first ascent of Jannu ( 7711  m ) 1962, first ascent of Nevado Huascarán north face ( 6768  m ) 1966, first ascent of Makalu west pillar ( 8485  m ) 1971
03	2011	Doug Scott	First ascent of Changabang ( 6864  m ) 1974, first ascent of Mount Everest south-west face ( 8848  m ) with bivouac on the south summit (approx. 8700  m ) 1975, first ascent of Ogre ( 7285  m ) and descent with broken ankles 1977, first ascent of Kangchenjunga north ridge ( 8586  m ) 1979, first ascent of Shishapangma south face ( 8027  m ) 1982
02	2010	Reinhold Messner	Opening of the alpine level of difficulty VIII on Heiligkreuzkofel ( 2907  m , central pillar ) 1968, 1st  solo ascent of the Philipp-Flamm (VI) route on the Civetta ( 3220  m ) 1969, 1st solo ascent of Les Droites north face ( 4000  m ) 1969 First person on all 14 eight-thousanders 1970–1986, including seven new routes
01	2009	Walter Bonatti	First ascent of Grand Capucin east face ( 3838  m ) 1951, first ascent of the southwest pillar " Bonattipfeiler " (VI / A2) Petit Dru ( 3733  m ) single-handedly 1955, first ascent of Gasherbrum IV ( 7932  m ) 1958, first winter solo attempt on the Matterhorn north face ( 4478  m ) on a new route in 1965

Web links

• Official website

Individual evidence

1. ↑ 2012 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Robert Paragot. (URL) (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on March 20, 2012 ; accessed on March 28, 2012 (English). 
2. ^ Steffen Kern: Piolet d'Or canceled. (No longer available online.) In: Klettern.de. January 18, 2008, archived from the original on November 21, 2015 ; Retrieved June 18, 2008 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
3. ↑ Cf. Piolet d'Or ( Memento of the original of July 28, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Jury. 
4. ↑ ^{a b} Piolet d'Or 2013: Award for all six nominees! (url) Austrian Alpine Association, accessed on September 27, 2013 . 
5. ↑ ^{a b c} Piolets d'Or to Lama, Auer and Livingstone. Bergstieg.com, August 5, 2019, accessed October 26, 2019 . 
6. ↑ ^{a b c} Piolets d'Or: These are the 2018 winners. Alpine , September 26, 2018, accessed on October 26, 2019 . 
7. ↑ Derek Franz: Jury selects two teams for Piolets d'Or awards this year for 2016 ascents. Alpinist, April 15, 2017. Accessed April 15, 2017. (English)
8. ↑ Jury awards four “Golden Ice Axes” Piolets d'Or 2016: Winners have been announced! Alpin , March 23, 2016. Accessed October 14, 2016.
9. ↑ Appreciation of the 2014 achievements ( memento of the original from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. on the Piolet d'Or website 
10. ↑ Sarah Burmester: Alex Honnold & Tommy Caldwell climb Fitz Traverse. (No longer available online.) In: kleben . Motor Presse Stuttgart , February 20, 2014, archived from the original on June 26, 2015 ; Retrieved June 25, 2015 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
11. ↑ Ralph Stöhr: Piolet d'Or 2014: “Alpine Oscar” awarded for major first ascents ( memento of the original from March 16, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The  archive link was inserted automatically and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Message from April 1, 2015 on klettern.de
12. ↑ Dominik Osswald: What happened that night? Ueli Steck's ascent of Annapurna over the south face is the alpine achievement of the century. There is only one problem: there is no evidence. The magazine N ° 10, March 7, 2015, pp. 12–19 (PDF)
13. ↑ ^{a b c d} The 2012 recipients are… (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on March 30, 2012 ; accessed on March 29, 2012 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
14. ↑ The two recipients of the 19e Piolets d'Or are… (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on April 3, 2012 ; accessed on March 29, 2012 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
15. ↑ ^{a b} The nominated ascents. (PDF; 47 kB) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, formerly in the original ; accessed on March 29, 2012 (English).  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.    
16. ↑ The two recipients of the Piolets d'Or for ascents in 2009 are ... (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on September 24, 2015 ; accessed on March 29, 2012 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
17. ↑ ^{a b} The Ascents Nominated for the 18th Piolets d'Or are ... (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on March 30, 2012 ; accessed on March 29, 2012 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
18. ↑ ^{a b c d} The 2009 recipients are .... (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on March 30, 2012 ; accessed on March 30, 2012 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
19. ↑ ^{a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p} At each Piolets d'Or event, the jury rewards expeditions from the previous year. (URL) Retrieved March 30, 2012 (English). 
20. ↑ Anna Piunova: Piolet d'Or -2006. (URL) mountain.ru, accessed on March 30, 2012 (English). 
21. ↑ Steve House - Climbing Biography. (URL) stevehouse.net, accessed on March 31, 2015 (English). 
22. ↑ Anna Piunova: Piolet d'Or 2004 goes to Jannu North Face! (URL) mountain.ru, accessed on March 30, 2012 (English). 
23. ^ Ang Karma Sherpa: Valeri Babanov and his fine Himalayan ascents. (URL) everestnews.com, accessed March 30, 2012 . 
24. ↑ Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden win 12th Piolet d'Or. (URL) planetmountain.com, accessed March 30, 2012 (English). 
25. ↑ Piolet d'Or - 2002. (URL) russianclimb.com, accessed on March 30, 2012 (English). 
26. ↑ Thomas Huber: Shiva's Line. (URL) himalayanclub.org, 2001, accessed March 30, 2012 . 
27. ^ Piolet d'or 1999 awarded to Lionel Daudet and Sebastien Foissac. (URL) planetmountain.com, 2001, accessed March 30, 2012 (English). 
28. ^ Andrew Lindblade: To Thalay With Love . 1998 ( full text in Google book search).
29. ↑ Sergey Efimow: The west face of Makalu . 1998 ( full text in Google book search).
30. ↑ Tomaž Humar: Ama Dablam: North-West Face. (PDF; 2.2 MB) In: Alpine Journal. 1997, pp. 80-84 , accessed March 30, 2012 (English). 
31. ↑ Ama Dablam 6812 m, Northeast Face Region: Nepal Himalaya . climbandmore.com, accessed March 30, 2012 (URL).
32. ^ Andreas Orgler - In Memoriam. (URL) mountainfuture.at, archived from the original on January 23, 2007 ; accessed on March 31, 2012 . 
33. ^ Rutas del Cerro Torre. (URL) ktml.freeservers.com, accessed April 2, 2012 (Spanish). 
34. ↑ Anna Piunova: Piolet d'Or. (URL) mountain.ru, accessed April 2, 2012 (Russian). 
35. ↑ David Sharman: South America and Antarctica I992. (PDF; 2.3 MB) In: Alpine Journal. 1993, p. 267 , accessed April 2, 2012 (English). 
36. ^ Claude Gardien: Portrait of a visionary. (url) (No longer available online.) pioletsdor.net, archived from the original on March 20, 2017 ; accessed on March 19, 2017 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
37. ↑ Piolets d'Or Lifetime Award. Honor for Wojciech Kurtyka. Alpin , March 9, 2016, accessed October 14, 2016 . 
38. ↑ The seventh Piolet d'Or Career will be awarded this year to: Chris Bonington. (url) (No longer available online.) pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on April 2, 2015 ; accessed on March 31, 2015 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
39. ↑ 2014 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: John Roskelley. (url) (No longer available online.) pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on October 20, 2014 ; accessed on November 5, 2014 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
40. ↑ 2013 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Kurt Diemberger. (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on February 24, 2016 ; accessed on February 18, 2013 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
41. ^ Claude Gardien: 2012 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Robert Paragot. (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on March 20, 2012 ; accessed on April 2, 2012 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
42. ↑ 2011 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Doug Scott. (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on April 16, 2011 ; accessed on April 2, 2012 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
43. ↑ 2010 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Reinhold Messner. (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on April 3, 2012 ; accessed on April 2, 2012 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
44. ↑ 2009 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Walter Bonatti. (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on March 30, 2012 ; accessed on April 2, 2012 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.