Shivling
| Shivling | ||
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| height | 6543 m | |
| location | Uttarakhand ( India ) | |
| Mountains | Gangotri Group ( Garhwal Himalaya ) | |
| Dominance | 2.46 km → Meru | |
| Notch height | 850 m | |
| Coordinates | 30 ° 52 '49 " N , 79 ° 3' 48" E | |
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| First ascent | June 3, 1974 by Laxman Singh with the Sherpas Dorje, Pemba Tharkay, Pasang Tsering and Ang Tharkay over the west wall and the west ridge | |
| Normal way | West ridge (objectively very dangerous) | |
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The Shivling is a 6543 m high mountain in the north Indian part of the Himalayas .
It lies in the Gangotri Group ( Garhwal Himalayas ) in the state of Uttarakhand . The distinctive shape resembles a steep pyramid and is reminiscent of the Walliser Matterhorn , which is why the mountain is also known as Matterhorn Peak . Due to its wild shape, combined with the high difficulty of an ascent, the Shivling is a popular destination among extreme mountaineers.
geography
The Shivling is located west of the Gangotri Glacier , opposite the Bhagirathi group . The “holy river” Bhagirathi , which forms the largest tributary of the Ganges , rises to the north at around 4000 m . The “ Gaumukh ” glacier gate of the Gangotrigletscher is considered to be the source of the Ganges and is the destination of a well-known and frequently used pilgrimage route. The base camp is reached via this pilgrimage route from Gangotri . Directly to the west is the 6,450 m high Meru , further west the 6,772 m high Bhrigupanth . To the north-west is the three-pinned Manda group ( 6568 m ).
The Shivling consists of steep rock faces on three sides, only the west side is flat enough to form firn flanks. These are strongly fissured by Séracs . He has a twin peak.
The notch height is 850 meters.
Surname
The name of the Shivling refers to the Hindu god Shiva . The Shivling is a symbol of Shiva's creative power. The shape of the mountain is reminiscent of a linga , a symbol that is closely related to Shiva , especially from the north .
During their first ascent of the neighboring Bhagirathi III , the British Colin Kirkus and Charles Warren named the Shivling for the first time Matterhorn Peak after its steep, pyramid-like shape .
Ascent history
Under Hindu - pilgrims is the Shivling because of its striking appearance and visibility of the sacred source of the Ganges known. In the west it became known as Matterhorn Peak after the British expedition in 1933 on neighboring Bhagirathi III . In 1938 a German expedition led by Rudolf Schwarzgruber was on the way to neighboring mountains. Due to the steepness and the large number of Séracs , they reported "no feasible routes" on the Shivling. In the following years there are no first attempts to climb.
It was not until June 3, 1974, when the Indian Laxman Singh and the Sherpas Dorje, Pemba Tharkay, Pasang Tsering and Ang Tharkay first climbed the Shivling over the west wall and the west ridge. The ridge leads into a col between the twin summit and from there via a couloir to the main summit. This expedition was an operation of the Indian-Tibetan border police. This increase could only be repeated in 1980. Today it is considered a “ normal route ”, although the route leads through steep and dangerous Séraczonen and is not always accessible. In 1980 the north ridge was first climbed by a Japanese expedition.
The east ridge was first climbed in 13 days in 1981 by an international expedition group, including Doug Scott . Over 60 pitches (up to VI. Level of difficulty ) had to be conquered, some with big wall technique and technical climbing ( A3 ). Today this ascent is considered an "alpine masterpiece and a milestone in the history of the mountain."
In the 1980s, further expeditions over the south pillar, the south-east ridge and through the north face were successful. The German Thomas Huber and the Swiss Iwan Wolf were able to climb the direct north pillar (VII./A4) for the first time in 2000. For this ascent, the two received the Piolet d'Or , probably the most important award for exceptional performance in extreme mountain sports. In May 2012, the Russian Valeri Vladimirovich Rosow carried out the first base jump from the summit, which at the time was the second highest base jump from a mountain. Today more than ten routes of various types lead to the summit.
literature
Guides and maps
- U. and E. Neummann: Adventure Trekking: Indian Himalaya - Ladakh, Garhwal, Sikkim . Bruckmann publishing house. Munich.
- Jan Babicz: Peaks and Passes of the Garhwal Himalaya . Alpinistyczny Club Eksploracyjny.
- Northern India . 1: 1,500,000, Nelles Verlag
- Garhwal West / Garhwal West . 1: 150,000, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research (SSAF)
further reading
- Rollo Steffens: Traumberg Shivling . Article in Alpin - Das Bergweltmagazin, pages 102-107. Issue No. 11, November 2000. Olympia-Verlag.
- Ed Douglas: Shivling . Article in World Mountaineering (Audrey Selkeld, Editor). Bulfinch Press 1998. ISBN 0-8212-2502-2 , pp. 258-261.
- Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables: Himalaya - Magic Lines . Bergverlag Rother , Munich 1996. ISBN 3763370420 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Rollo Steffens: Traumberg Shivling . Article in Alpin - Das Bergweltmagazin, pages 102-107. Issue No. 11, November 2000. Olympia-Verlag.
- ^ A b Ed Douglas: Shivling . Article in World Mountaineering (Audrey Selkeld, Editor). Bulfinch Press 1998. ISBN 0-8212-2502-2 , pp. 258-261.
- ↑ Corrected version of the SRTM data , available under Viewfinder Panoramas
- ↑ Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables: Himalaya Alpine-Style . Hodder and Stoughton 1995. ISBN 0-340-64931-3 , pages 99-102.
- ↑ Himalaya: Russian base jumper jumps from six-thousanders on Spiegel.de