Thomas Huber (mountaineer)

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Thomas Huber (2009)

Thomas Huber (born November 18, 1966 in Palling ) is a German mountaineer and mountain guide .

Life

Thomas Huber is the eldest son of three siblings of the former bank employee and later branch manager Thomas Huber senior. As a passionate mountain hiker, Huber sen. from an early age his children Thomas and Alexander went on mountain tours. Thomas jun. and his younger brother Alexander later made a name for himself as an extreme mountaineer. They picked up their nickname " Huberbuam " from their childhood days to give their joint website a memorable name. Thomas Huber has been climbing since he was ten. While he was still studying sports and business administration , he planned to open a sports hotel in Berchtesgaden . The attempt failed and when his wife became pregnant, he decided to turn his hobby into a profession as an extreme climber. Since 1992 he has been a certified mountain and ski guide . He lives in Berchtesgaden with his wife Marion and their three children.

The documentary Am Limit (2007) observes the brothers in their passion, so-called speed climbing . In 2011 he was diagnosed with a benign kidney tumor that was surgically removed. In July 2016, while filming, Huber fell sixteen meters in free fall on a rock face on the Brendlberg near Berchtesgaden and suffered a skull fracture; in August 2016 he was able to go on an expedition again.

Important inspections

  • 1992
    • Second ascent of Shogun in Berchtesgaden.
  • 1994
  • 1996
  • 1997
  • 1998
    • First free ascent of El Niño ( 5.13b ) on El Capitan and thus the first free ascent of the North America Wall .
    • Red point ascent by freeriders (El Capitan). Both inspections with his brother Alexander.
  • 1999
    • Third ascent of Dreamcatcher (Thunklamm / Austria).
    • Second ascent of the southwest face of Latok IV (6445 m).
  • 2000
    • First ascent of the direct north pillar on Shivling  (6543 m) together with Iwan Wolf .
    • First ascent of a new free climbing route on El Capitan: Golden Gate (together with his brother Alexander).
  • 2001
    • First ascent of Ogre  III (6800 m).
    • Second ascent of Ogre I (7285 m), on which several expedition teams had previously failed.
  • 2003
    • First red point ascent by Zodiac  ( X + ) on El Capitan.
  • 2004
    • Fastest ascent of an El Capitan route: Zodiac in 1:52 hours with his brother Alexander (for comparison: experienced rope teams need an average of 2–5 days for this route).
    • Ascent of the western summit of Arwa Spire (6088 m) in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas .
  • 2005
    • Crossing Torre Standhart - Herron - Torre Egger in Patagonia .
    • Start of the shooting of Am Limit . Record attempt in speed climbing on the route The Nose . The record was 2 hours and 48 minutes (rope teams need between 3 and 5 days). While training in Yosemite Valley, Thomas' brother Alexander fell from a height of 17 meters after breaking his grip and sustained serious injuries to his ankles.
  • 2006
    • When trying to climb the north face of the Three Peaks in one day with Dean Potter (and return to the base of the wall by base jump) tendon tear in the shoulder.
    • Second attempt to break the record on The Nose , again while filming Am Limit . Failed again because Thomas fell while attempting to record.
  • 2007
    • Speed ​​record on the nose in 2:45:45 on October 8, 2007. Four days earlier, the Huber brothers had already beaten the record of 2:48:50 set in 2002 by Hans Florine and Yūji Hirayama by 15 seconds. On July 2, 2008, this record was undercut by Hans Florine and Yūji Hirayama with 2:43:33 and improved on October 12, 2008 to 2:37:05.
  • 2008
    • First ascent of the Silla west face "El Bastardo" in Patagonia .
    • "Three peaks" in one day: Western pinnacle ( Alpenliebe , IX; base jump from the Scoiattolikante ), large pinnacle ( phantom of the pinnacle , IX +; base jump from the ring band ), small pinnacle ( Ötzi meets Yeti , VIII +).
    • First ascent of the west face of Holtanna , the third highest peak of the Drygalski Mountains in Queen Maud Land , Antarctica , together with his brother Alexander and Stephan Siegrist.
    • Ascent of Ulvetanna , the highest peak of the Drygalski Mountains in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, in fog and blowing snow, together with his brother Alexander and Stephan Siegrist.
  • 2009
    • First red point ascent of "Eternal Flame" (IX + / X-, UIAA) at the Trango Tower (also Nameless Tower) (Karakorum) in summer 2009 together with Franz Hinterbrandner, Mario Walder and his brother Alexander.

Quotes

“ I am a brutal machine. When I go, I go. "

- Thomas Huber

“ My family lives from my going to the battlefield and playing Hercules. "

- Thomas Huber, 2006

Awards

Books

Movies
  • At the limit . Documentary, Germany 2007, 95 min., Script and director: Pepe Danquart , production: Hager Moss Film, Lotus Film and Quinte Film.
  • The Huberbuam . TV reportage in 3D , Germany, 2011, 45 min., Written and directed by Jens Monath, first broadcast: October 3rd, 2011. The first stereo 3D production by ZDF about the Huber boys free climbing with overhanging passages in the Berchtesgaden Alps.
  • Bavarian Direct - Adventure at the end of the world . (Alternative title: Die Bayrische Direttissima - Huberbuam extreme. ) Documentary, Austria, 2012, 50:14 min., Director and camera: Franz Hinterbrander and Max Reichel, series: Bergwelten , first broadcast: April 26, 2013 on ServusTV , production: Timeline Production , ServusTV, table of contents and online video from ServusTV. About the expedition on Mount Asgard on Baffin Island .

Others

  • Thomas Huber is the singer of the Berchtesgaden rock band Plastic Surgery Disaster .
  • With the establishment of the AtemWeg Foundation - Foundation for Research into Lung Diseases in 2010, Thomas Huber, together with other celebrities, supports the foundation's activities as a breathing ambassador.

Web links

Commons : Thomas Huber  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Korbinian Eisenberger: father of the Huberbuam. Out and about with the inalienable. In: Süddeutsche Zeitung , November 18, 2014.
  2. ↑ a b Malte Roeper : Thomas, the Huberbua. In: BR , May 14, 2018.
  3. ↑ Anna Ntemiris: Thomas Huber: A border crosser who fascinates. In: Oberhessische Presse , September 17, 2014.
  4. ↑ ses: This is how I won the battle against the kidney tumor. In: tz , July 21, 2011, accessed on May 19, 2018.
  5. ↑ Stefan Nestler: Thomas Huber: "Thank you for being allowed to live!" - Interview. In: Deutsche Welle . July 19, 2016. Retrieved May 19, 2018 .
  6. ↑ Stefan Nestler: Thomas Huber: "I drive with a laughing heart." In: Deutsche Welle. August 13, 2016. Retrieved May 19, 2018 .
  7. ↑ El Bastardo . ( Memento from August 1st, 2012 in the web archive archive.today ). In: huberbuam.de .
  8. ↑ a b Book tip: Expedition Antarctica • Huberbuam: Ice Age. In: Alpin , January 27, 2011.
  9. ↑ a b "At minus 46 degrees in the wall". In: Neue Osnabrücker Zeitung , January 22, 2009, interview with Alexander Huber.
  10. ↑ Video: Extreme climbing - The "Huberbuam" in the Antarctic. In: Spiegel TV , March 19, 2009, 2:44 min., Accessed May 19, 2018.
  11. ↑ In the film: At the limit .
  12. ↑ Dirk von Nayhauß: Thomas Huber: “You mustn't doubt!” In: Alpin , No. 1, 2007, interview, only visible at the beginning. Reprinted in: D. v. Nayhauß: Extreme on the mountain: In conversation with 20 alpine stars. 2013, ISBN 978-3-492-40535-5 .
  13. ↑ Summary of the film Climbing at the Limit. ( Memento from January 29, 2008 in the Internet Archive )
  14. ↑ Press release: ZDF shows first 3D in-house production / climbing documentary: with the Huber boys on the Karma route. In: Presseportal.de / ZDF , September 29, 2011, accessed on May 19, 2018.
  15. ^ Record review by Dorian Gorr: Plastic Surgery Disaster - Endless. In: Metal Hammer , December 23, 2013, accessed May 19, 2018.
personal data
SURNAME Huber, Thomas
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH November 18, 1966
PLACE OF BIRTH Palling