Conrad Anker

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Conrad Anker

Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962 ) is an American rock climber , mountaineer and author who is mainly active in the Himalayas and Antarctica . In 1999, Conrad Anker was a key member of the search team that found the body of British climber George Mallory high on the north face of Mount Everest . Anker is the climber who discovered Mallory's body in a scree field at 8,150 meters on the huge north face of Everest. Anker lives in Bozeman , Montana .

2016 suffered anchor while trying, along with David Lama the Lunag Ri to the first ascent of a heart attack.

Important climbs and expeditions

  • 1987 Southeast Face of Gurney Peak, Kichatna Mountains, Alaska Range , Alaska , USA. First ascent with Seth 'ST' Shaw, Robert Ingle and James Garrett; Peak reached on May 8, 1987.
  • 1989 Northwest Face of Mount Hunter , Alaska Range , Alaska , USA. First ascent with Seth 'ST' Shaw, summit July 3, 1989.
  • 1990 Rodeo Queen , Streaked Wall, Zion National Park , first ascent together with Mugs Stump
  • 1992 East Buttress (eastern tip) of the Middle Triple Peak , Kichatna Mountains , Alaska, USA, second ascent with Seth Shaw
  • 1992 Shunes Buttress , Red Arch Mountain, Zion , USA, first rapid climb with Dave Jones
  • 1994 Badlands (YDS VI 5.10 A3 WI4 +, 1000m), southeast face, Torre Egger, Patagonia . Conrad Anker, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (USA), first ascent on December 12, 1994.
  • 1997 Northwest face (V 5.8, 2100m) of Peak Loretan, Ellsworth Mountains , Antarctica (Solo) on 15. – 16. January 1997
  • 1997 Rakekniven, Queen Maud Land , Antarctica , first ascent with Alex Lowe and Jon Krakauer . Featured in the main article of the February 1998 issue of National Geographic magazine .
  • 1997 Tsering Mosong , Latok II, Karakorum , first ascent with Alexander Huber , Thomas Huber and Toni Gutsch
  • 1997 Continental Drift , El Capitan , Yosemite, California, USA, FA with Steve Gerberding and Kevin Thaw
  • 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, Mount Everest , Tibet
  • 1999 Shishapangma , American Ski Expedition, Tibet. Anker survived a massive avalanche in which his climbing partner Alex Lowe and cameraman David Bridges are killed. Report in the PBS series NOVA in February 2003
  • 2002 National Geographic Expedition to the calving grounds of the Tibetan Chiru antelope. The team, consisting of Anker, Galen Rowell, Rick Ridgeway and Jimmy Chin, walked 400 kilometers on the uninhabited Changthang Plateau and climbed a seven-thousander they named Chiru Mustagh.
  • 2005 Southwest ridge of Cholatse , Khumbu , Nepal - Summit with Kevin Thaw, Kris Erickson, John Griber and Abby Watkins on May 12, 2005.
  • 2007 Leads Altitude Everest Expedition 2007, which Leo Houlding, Jimmy Chin and Kevin Thaw joined to follow Mallory's final steps on Everest.
  • 2011 Shark's Fin , Meru Peak , FA with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk
  • In 2016, Anker suffered a heart attack while attempting the first ascent of Lunag Ri .

Anchor ascended also important routes in Yosemite Valley ( California ), Zion National Park ( Utah ), on Baffin Island ( Canada ), and in the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica.

Publications

  • Conrad Anker: Gumbies on Gurney . In: American Alpine Club (Ed.): American Alpine Journal 1988 . 30, No. 62, NYC, NY, USA, 1988, pp. 69-75.
  • Conrad Anker: Hunter's Northwest Face . In: American Alpine Club (Ed.): American Alpine Journal 1990 . 42, No. 64, NYC, NY, USA, 1990, pp. 36-38.
  • Conrad Anker: With You in Spirit . In: American Alpine Club (Ed.): American Alpine Journal 1998 . 40, No. 72, Golden, CO, USA, 1998, pp. 140-145.
  • Conrad Anker, David Roberts: The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mt. Everest . Simon and Schuster / Touchstone, New York, NY, USA 2001 (original 1999), ISBN 0-684-87151-3 .

Movies

  • Shackleton 's Antarctic Adventure (2001).
  • Light of the Himalaya (2006). Documentary, directed by Michael Brown.
  • The Endless Knot (2007), documentary. Directed by Michael Brown.
  • The Wildest Dream (2010), documentary. Director: Anthony Geffen.
  • Meru (2015), documentary about climbing Meru Peak.

swell

  1. ↑ http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/everest/lost/search/day.html
  2. ^ Conrad Anker: Conrad Anker: Sustainability a Driving Force in Today's Business World . In: Bozeman Daily Chronicle , March 14, 2011. Retrieved July 21, 2011. see note at bottom 
  3. ↑ [1] .
  4. ↑ Conrad Anker: Gumbies on Gurney . In: American Alpine Club (Ed.): American Alpine Journal 1988 . 30, No. 62, NYC, NY, USA, 1988, pp. 69-75.
  5. ^ Conrad Anker: Hunter's Northwest Face . In: American Alpine Club (Ed.): American Alpine Journal 1990 . 42, No. 64, NYC, NY, USA, 1990, pp. 36-38.
  6. ^ First Ascent Info . Big wall dot com. Retrieved February 6, 2008.
  7. ^ Conrad Anker, David Roberts : The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest . Simon and Schuster, 2000, ISBN 0-7432-0192-2 , p. 100.
  8. ↑ Eric Bjornstad: Desert Rock: Rock Climbs in the National Parks . Chockstone press, Evergreen, CO, USA 1996, ISBN 0-934641-92-7 , p. 67.
  9. ↑ Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre . Climbing in Patagonia. Archived from the original on June 20, 2009. Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved May 27, 2009. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.climbinginpatagonia.freeservers.com
  10. ^ Conrad Anker: With You in Spirit . In: American Alpine Club (Ed.): American Alpine Journal 1998 . 40, No. 72, Golden, CO, USA, 1998, pp. 140-145.
  11. ↑ Jon Krakauer , Wiltsie, Gordon: On the Edge of Antarctica: Queen Maud Land . In: National Geographic Magazine . February 1998, pp. 46-69.
  12. ↑ Alex Huber, Thomas Huber: The American Alpine Journal 1998 . American Alpine Club, New York, NY, USA 1998, ISBN 0-930410-78-5 , pp. 34-42.
  13. ^ Steve Schneider: The American Alpine Journal 1998 . American Alpine Club, New York, NY, USA 1998, ISBN 0-930410-78-5 , p. 187.
  14. ↑ Alex Chadwick: Chang Tang's Endangered Antelope. In: www.npr.org. National Public Radio, April 15, 2003, accessed September 25, 2019 .
  15. ↑ The Himalayan Cataract Project team Summits Cholatse! . In: MountEverest.net . ExplorersWeb. May 12, 2005. Archived from the original on October 11, 2008. Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved September 1, 2009.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.mounteverest.net
  16. ^ Mariah Coley: Shark's Fin Full Report . Retrieved November 5, 2012.
  17. ↑ «The mountain is like a white canvas» . nzz.ch. Accessed January 8, 2016

Web links

personal data
SURNAME Anker, Conrad
BRIEF DESCRIPTION American rock climber, mountaineer, and author
DATE OF BIRTH November 27, 1962