Ogre (mountain)
Ogre - Baintha Brakk | ||
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Ogre (center), south side of Baintha above the Uzun Brakk glacier |
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height | 7285 m | |
location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
Mountains | Panmah Muztagh ( Karakoram ) | |
Dominance | 41.65 km → Kanjut Sar | |
Notch height | 1891 m ↓ Sim La ( 5394 m ) | |
Coordinates | 35 ° 56 '53 " N , 75 ° 45' 12" E | |
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First ascent | July 13, 1977 by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott | |
Baintha Brakk (right of center) from WNW above the Simgang Glacier - from Hispar La |
The Ogre (actually Baintha Brakk , spoken for example Benta Brak ) is a 7,285 m high mountain in the Pakistani- controlled part of the Karakoram or the disputed Kashmir region .
Origin of name
The name Baintha Brakk is derived from the Alm Baintha on the Biafo glacier . The name Ogre means "ogre" and goes back to William Martin Conway , who invented numerous English names for mountains in the Karakoram.
location
The Ogre is the highest peak of the Panmah Muztagh , the group of the Karakoram that lies northwest of the more famous Baltoro Muztagh . It rises to the north of the Biafo Glacier between the firns of the Simgang and Choktoi glaciers . Neighboring to the southeast is the massif of the Latok group . 2 km south-southeast rises the 6,960 m high Baintha Brakk II and in front of it the Ogre's Thumb rock needle.
Access is from Skardu and Askole via the Biafo Glacier to Baintha. From there you can reach the south side and the west ridge of the Ogre via the Uzun-Brakk glacier.
Ascent history
The first ascent of the Ogre, considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world, was not made until 1977 by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott over the west ridge.
Then 20 expedition teams failed when attempting a second ascent. Thomas Huber , Iwan Wolf and Urs Stoecker did not succeed in a second ascent over the south pillar until July 21, 2001 .
A third ascent on a new route in the south face of the summit was made on August 21, 2012 by Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy. Her compatriot Josh Wharton had also accompanied her on the ascent, but had to stop the ascent at about 6,800 meters due to an onset of altitude sickness. For this achievement, Dempster, Kennedy and Wharton were awarded the Piolet d'Or in 2013.
literature
- Thomas Huber: Ogre - the summit of dreams . blv-Verlag, 2002, ISBN 3-405-16374-9
Web links
- The Ogre, Pakistan on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Baintha Brakk at Peakware (English)
- Photo at summitpost.org
- Photos at caingram.com
Individual evidence
- ^ William Martin Conway: Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram-Himalayas. 1894, p. 386. ( Available online at www.archive.org )
- ^ Christian Bonington: The Ogre . American Alpine Journal, 1978, vol. 21st
- ^ Thomas Huber: Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Ogre, Second Ascent and Ogre III, First Ascent . American Alpine Journal, 2002, vol. 44.
- ↑ EpicTV: Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, The Ogre, New Route, South Face - Piolets d'Or 2013 Winners. April 9, 2013, accessed June 7, 2020 .