Ogre (mountain)

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Ogre - Baintha Brakk
Ogre (center), south side of Baintha above the Uzun Brakk glacier

Ogre (center), south side of Baintha above the Uzun Brakk glacier

height 7285  m
location Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan )
Mountains Panmah Muztagh ( Karakoram )
Dominance 41.65 km →  Kanjut Sar
Notch height 1891 m ↓  Sim La ( 5394  m )
Coordinates 35 ° 56 '53 "  N , 75 ° 45' 12"  E Coordinates: 35 ° 56 '53 "  N , 75 ° 45' 12"  E
Ogre (mountain) (Karakoram)
Ogre (mountain)
First ascent July 13, 1977 by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott
Baintha Brakk (right of center) from WNW above the Simgang Glacier - from Hispar La

Baintha Brakk (right of center) from WNW above the Simgang Glacier - from Hispar La

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Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1

The Ogre (actually Baintha Brakk , spoken for example Benta Brak ) is a 7,285  m high mountain in the Pakistani- controlled part of the Karakoram or the disputed Kashmir region .

Origin of name

The name Baintha Brakk is derived from the Alm Baintha on the Biafo glacier . The name Ogre means "ogre" and goes back to William Martin Conway , who invented numerous English names for mountains in the Karakoram.

location

The Ogre is the highest peak of the Panmah Muztagh , the group of the Karakoram that lies northwest of the more famous Baltoro Muztagh . It rises to the north of the Biafo Glacier between the firns of the Simgang and Choktoi glaciers . Neighboring to the southeast is the massif of the Latok group . 2 km south-southeast rises the 6,960  m high Baintha Brakk II and in front of it the Ogre's Thumb rock needle.

Access is from Skardu and Askole via the Biafo Glacier to Baintha. From there you can reach the south side and the west ridge of the Ogre via the Uzun-Brakk glacier.

Ascent history

The first ascent of the Ogre, considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world, was not made until 1977 by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott over the west ridge.

Then 20 expedition teams failed when attempting a second ascent. Thomas Huber , Iwan Wolf and Urs Stoecker did not succeed in a second ascent over the south pillar until July 21, 2001 .

A third ascent on a new route in the south face of the summit was made on August 21, 2012 by Americans Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy. Her compatriot Josh Wharton had also accompanied her on the ascent, but had to stop the ascent at about 6,800 meters due to an onset of altitude sickness. For this achievement, Dempster, Kennedy and Wharton were awarded the Piolet d'Or in 2013.

literature

Web links

Commons : Baintha Brakk  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ William Martin Conway: Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram-Himalayas. 1894, p. 386. ( Available online at www.archive.org )
  2. ^ Christian Bonington: The Ogre . American Alpine Journal, 1978, vol. 21st
  3. ^ Thomas Huber: Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Ogre, Second Ascent and Ogre III, First Ascent . American Alpine Journal, 2002, vol. 44.
  4. EpicTV: Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, The Ogre, New Route, South Face - Piolets d'Or 2013 Winners. April 9, 2013, accessed June 7, 2020 .