Doug Scott

Doug Scott, 2015

Doug Scott , CBE (actually Douglas Keith Scott , born May 29, 1941 in Nottingham ) is a former mountaineer and was one of the best British extreme mountaineers , especially in the 1970s and 80s, and is considered one of the most successful high-altitude climbers of all time. From 1999 to 2001 Doug Scott was President of the British Alpine Club . He is married to the Indian mountaineer Sharavati (Sharu) Prabhu.

His charitable commitment is also remarkable: He founded the Community Action Nepal Foundation to improve the living conditions of the local mountain population in Nepal. He also campaigned for fair working conditions for porters who are hired by mountaineering expeditions to transport luggage to the base camp and who often have to do hard physical labor for the lowest wages.

Doug Scott received the title of Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 1994 and the Patron's Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society in 1999 . In 2011 he received the Piolet d'Or for his life's work.

Special alpine achievements

Doug Scott was involved in 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia, during which he reached 40 peaks. All these summit ascents were either first ascents , first ascents of new routes or first ascents in alpine style . Except for the 1975 ascent of Mount Everest, all tours were conducted with a minimum of equipment.

• 1967 First ascent of the south face of Koh-i-Bandaka in the Hindu Kush .
• 1974 First ascent of Changabang .
• 1975 First ascent of the southwest face of Mount Everest together with Dougal Haston , first British ascent of Mount Everest, bivouac at an altitude of over 8700 m.
• 1976 First ascent of the north face of Mount McKinley .
• 1977 First ascent of the extremely difficult Ogre together with Chris Bonington . This ascent was associated with a martyrdom of days of descent, as he had broken both ankles and the team had to bivouac more often than planned due to a weather change during the descent . The Ogre could only be climbed again in 2001, in between more than 20 expeditions had failed.
• 1978 attempt on the west side of the K2 .
• 1979 First ascent of the Kangchenjunga north ridge. Third ascent of the Kangchenjunga main summit, first ascent in alpine style and without additional oxygen, together with Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker .
• 1979 First ascent of the Nuptse north face.
• 1980 expedition to the K2 west ridge. Scott reaches an altitude of approximately 7000 meters.
• 1981 First ascent of the Shivling East Ridge.
• 1982 First ascent of the Shishapangma south face.
• 1983 First ascent of Lobsang Spire .
• 1983 ascent of Broad Peak .
• 1983 attempt at K2. A height of approx. 8000 meters is reached.
• 1988 First ascent of Jichu Drake .
• 1994 Doug Scott climbs the last of the Seven Summits (after the more difficult Carstensz pyramid version).

Other peaks that Doug Scott has climbed are the Baruntse , Latok III , Makalu , Mount Kenya and Pik Lenin . He was also the first Briton to climb the famous Salathé Wall on El Capitan (1971).

Book publications

• Doug Scott, Himalayan Climber: A Lifetime's Quest to the World's Greater Ranges , ISBN 1-898573-16-6
• Doug K. Scott, Big wall climbing , ISBN 0-7182-0967-2 .
• Doug Scott and Alex Macintyre, The Shishapangma Expedition , ISBN 0-89886-723-1 .
• Doug Scott, Mountaineer (1992)

Web links

• Literature by and about Doug Scott in the catalog of the German National Library
• Doug Scott's homepage
• Brief biography ( Memento from January 31, 2008 in the Internet Archive )
• Biographical video documentation on the occasion of the Piolet d'Or 2011, tvmountain.com (2:13 min.)

Individual evidence

1. ↑ 2011 - Doug Scott pioletsdor.net