Lenin Peak

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Lenin Peak
Lenin peak from Sary-mogol.jpg
height 7134  m
location Tajikistan / Kyrgyzstan border
Mountains Transalai Mountains ( Pamir )
Dominance 85.9 km →  Pik Ismoil Somoni
Notch height 2790 m ↓  (4344 m)
Coordinates 39 ° 20 '55 "  N , 72 ° 52' 37"  E Coordinates: 39 ° 20 '55 "  N , 72 ° 52' 37"  E
Lenin Peak (Kyrgyzstan)
Lenin Peak
First ascent September 25, 1928 by Karl Wien , Eugen Allwein and Erwin Schneider
Normal way Alpine tour
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The Pik Lenin ( Russian Пик Ленина Pik Lenina , Kyrgyz Ленин Чокусу Lenin Čokusu , Tajik and 2006 Қуллаи Ленин Qullai Lenin , originally "Pik merchant" or "merchant-tip") is the highest mountain in the Transalai chain in the northern part of Pamir ( Central Asia).

At 7134  m , it is behind the Ismoil Somoni peak (formerly: “Pik Stalin”, “Peak Communism”, 7495  m ) the fifth highest peak of the Pamir.

On July 3, 2006, the Tajik government announced, according to Russian media, that Lenin Peak is now known as Independence Peak ( Tajik Қуллаи Истиқлол Qullai Istiqlol ). According to the Tajik President's website, he has had the name Pik Abuali ibni Sino ( Tajik Қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино Qullai Abualij ibni Sino ; Tajik spelling of the Persian philosopher Avicenna ) and the name Pik Independence , a good 100 km away, since July 4, 2006 . lower mountain of spades revolution .

history

The mountain was discovered in 1871 by the Russian explorer Alexei Pawlowitsch Fedtschenko and named after the then Russian Governor General of Turkestan , Konstantin Petrowitsch von Kaufmann , Pik Kaufmann (Russian Pik Kaufmana ).

On September 25, 1928, the German-Soviet Alai-Pamir expedition led by Willi Rickmer Rickmers , Nikolai Gorbunow and Nikolai Krylenko managed to reach the summit of Lenin Peak for the first time. The summit conquerors replaced the altitude record set by Alexander Mitchell Kellas and two Sherpas 17 years earlier with the ascent of Pauhunri . From Kusgun Tokai via Altin Masar we went through the Sauk-Sai Valley in an easterly and then northwards direction over the Sauk-Sai Glacier . After four days, Karl Wien , Eugen Allwein and Erwin Schneider ( 7000er-Schneider ) set up their last high camp at 5700 meters above sea level, but in the first attempt only came to a secondary peak (called the corner pillar ) at 6100 meters above sea level. On September 25th, they finally found the right route and reached the summit after about seven hours of ascent via an ice wall inclined at about 55 ° and the east ridge.

That same year, the mountain after the leader of the October Revolution , Vladimir Ilyich Lenin in Lenin renamed.

There are 16 routes to the summit, nine on the south side and seven on the north side. Since some routes are technically uncomplicated, the mountain is very popular and well visited in summer.

In 1958, Ekaterina Chasjanowna Mamlejewa climbed Lenin Peak , making her the first 7000 Soviet woman . In 1974 a team of eight female climbers led by Elvira Shataeva had an accident on the summit ridge on the occasion of the International Pamir Expedition in a storm.

On July 13, 1990, 43 alpinists in Camp II at an altitude of 5300 m were buried by a glacier breaking off 1.5 km wide as a result of an earthquake, including four Germans. It was the worst mountain climbing accident in the history of the Soviet Union.

The mountain is one of the five seven-thousand-meter peaks on the territory of the former USSR . The Snow Leopard Order is given to the climbers who have conquered all five peaks.

Minor peaks

A ridge leading from the Lenin Peak, 3 km south-southeast situated 6842  m high spades Marshal Zhukov ( ⊙ ). The 6,495  m high Marshal Zhukov Pass separates the two peaks. The first ascent of Marshal Zhukov Peak took place in 1958 by Kirill Kuzmin . The summit was named after the Soviet Marshal Georgi Konstantinowitsch Schukow (1896–1974).

Web links

Commons : Lenin Peak  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ next higher point at 38 ° 57 ′  N , 72 ° 1 ′  E
  2. ↑ president.tj ( Memento of the original from November 29, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.president.tj
  3. ^ Erwin Schneider: Pik Lenin 7130 on September 25, 1928 . In: XXV. Annual report of the Academic Alpine Association Berlin 1927/28 , Berlin 1928, p. 35 ff.
  4. ↑ NZZ of June 3, 2011: The Unknown Russian
  5. ↑ Пик Ленина отпускает своих жертв ( Memento of the original from January 20, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. ( Lenin Peak releases his victims. ) From mk.ru, December 7, 2011 (Russian). Retrieved August 1, 2017 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.mk.ru
  6. ↑ The Alps 1975: International Expedition 1974 to the Russian Pamir Mountains
  7. ↑ a b Pik Marshal Zhukov at Peakware (English)
  8. ↑ Yevgeniy Gippenreiter, Vladimir Shataev: Six and Seventhousanders of the Tien Shan and the Pamirs (PDF 4.6 MB) Alpine Journal, 1996, 122-130.