Jengish Chokusu

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Dschengisch Tschokusu - Tomur Feng -
Pik Pobedy - Pik Pobeda
View from the north (from the left): Dschengisch Tschokusu, Pik Vascha-Pschawela

View from the north (from left): Jengish Chokusu, Vasha-Pschawela peak

height 7439  m
location Ak-Suu Rajon in Issykköl ( Kyrgyzstan ), Aksu Konaxeher
District in Aksu Administrative Region in Xinjiang ( PR China )
Mountains Kokshaal Tau ( Tian Shan )
Dominance 559 km →  Kongur
Notch height 4146 m ↓  ( 3293  m )
Coordinates 42 ° 2 '5 "  N , 80 ° 7' 46"  E Coordinates: 42 ° 2 '5 "  N , 80 ° 7' 46"  E
Dschengisch Tschokusu (Kyrgyzstan)
Jengish Chokusu
First ascent 1956 by a team from Vitaly Abalakov
particularities highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan

The Dschengisch Tschokusu Kyrgyz Жеңиш Чокусу ; in China: Tomur Feng ( Chinese  托 木 爾 峰  /  托 木 尔 峰 , Pinyin Tuōmù'ěr Fēng ); also: Pik Pobedy or Pik Pobeda ( Russian for "Victory Summit" based on the Soviet victory in World War II), is the highest mountain in Tian Shan at 7439  m and also the highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan .


It is also often referred to as "the northernmost seven-thousander in the world". Geographically exact, however, is the Khan Tengri ( 7010  m ) to the north, which is recognized as 7000m, although it only measures 6,995 meters without its ice cap.

The Dschengisch Tschokusu is glaciated and is located on the border between Kyrgyzstan and the People's Republic of China , east of Lake Issyk Kul , approx. 15 km south of the second highest peak in the Tian Shan, the Khan Tengri, which was believed to be the highest peak in the Tian Shan until 1944 . The Chinese half of the mountain is located in the county wensu county of the district of Aksu in the Uygur Autonomous Region of Xinjiang and the Tomur Nature Reserve dominated. The Zoëzdocka glacier , a tributary glacier of the southern Engiltschek glacier , flows on the north flank . The western Tschong-Terek glacier stretches on the southeast flank, and the eastern Temirsu glacier on the southwest flank .

Ascent history

The first ascent was probably made in 1956 by a team from Vitaly Abalakov . It cannot be ruled out that Leonid Gutman, Yevgeny Ivanov and Alexander Sidorenko were already on the summit on September 19, 1938. However, they miscalculated by more than 500 m and believed they were only 6930 m above sea level. The first winter ascent was made on February 2, 1990 by an international team. Valery Khrishchaty , Sergei Bogomolov , Gennady Bogomolov, Sergei Ovcharenko and Gennady Mikhailov reached the summit. Anatoly Bukreev had previously had to turn back at an altitude of 7,400 meters. A Kyrgyz team managed the second winter ascent on February 8, 2017.

The mountain is one of the five seven-thousand-meter peaks on the territory of the former USSR . The Snow Leopard Order is given to the climbers who have conquered all five peaks.

Minor peaks

There are several secondary peaks on the mountain ridge of Jengish Chokusu:

4.2 km west of the main peak lies the Pik (Jawaharlal) Nehru (or Neru ; Russian Пик Джавахарла́л Не́ру , 6742  m ), named after the Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru .

2.5 km west of the main summit is the Vasha -Pschawela peak (or west summit, 6918  m ), named after the Georgian writer and natural philosopher Vasha-Pschawela .

The east summit ( 6762  m , notch height 362 m) of the Dschengisch Tschokusu is 4.65 km east of the main summit. On its northeast ridge, the mountain range descends to the 5488  m high Tschong-Terek-Pass . There is the eastern end point of the Kokschaal-Tau .


Web links

Commons : Dschengisch Tschokusu  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Article Kokschaal-Tau in the Great Soviet Encyclopedia (BSE) , 3rd edition 1969–1978 (Russian)http: //vorlage_gse.test/1%3D062688~2a%3DKokschaal-Tau~2b%3DKokschaal-Tau
  2. Kay Tschersich: Kyrgyzstan, Terskej-Alatau-Traverse from Kyzyl Suu to Ak Suu, Trekking in Tienschan (= OutdoorHandbuch. Volume 151). Conrad Stein Verlag, Welver 2005, ISBN 3-89392-551-1 , p. 14.
  3. American Alpine Journal, 1991, Volume 33, pp. 71f. ( online )