Pik Ismoil Somoni
Pik Ismoil Somoni | ||
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Pik Ismoil Somoni |
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height | 7495 m | |
location | Nohija Tawildara in Nohijahoi tobei dschumhurij ( Tajikistan ) | |
Mountains | Chain of the Academy of Sciences ( Pamir ) | |
Dominance | 278 km → Kongur Jiubie (sub-peak of Kongur ) | |
Notch height | 3402 m ↓ (4093 m) | |
Coordinates | 38 ° 56 '33 " N , 72 ° 0' 54" E | |
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First ascent | September 3, 1933 by Yevgeny Abalakov | |
Normal way | Hochtour glaciated |
Ismoil Somoni Peak ( Tajik Қуллаи Исмоили Сомонӣ / Qullai Ismoili Somonij ; Russian Пик имени Исмаила Самани / Pik Imeni Ismaila Samani ) is the highest mountain in Tadschikistan and the fourth highest of the Pamirs .
history
At times after the Russian conquest and the Soviet Union , it was the highest mountain in each country. From 1932 to 1962 it was called Pik Stalin (Russian пик Сталина / Pik Stalina ), named after Josef Stalin , and from 1962 to 1998 Pik Communism (Russian пик Коммунизма / Pik Kommunisma ). The current name goes back to the Tajik "father of the nation", the Samanid ruler Ismail I (Tajik Исмоил Сомонӣ / Ismoil Somonij ).
Until 1928, Lenin Peak ( 7134 m ), 90 km away, was considered the highest mountain in the Soviet part of the Pamir. A calculation of the Soviet-German Alai-Pamir expedition under Willi Rickmer Rickmers , however, showed an even higher elevation. At first, the Ismoil Somoni was identified with the Garmo peak ; It was not until 1932 that further Soviet expeditions made it clear that these were two different mountains.
In 1933 a large Soviet expedition made the first ascent of Stalin Peak. There were considerable difficulties because of the altitude and the extreme cold; Of the six climbers in the top group, only Yevgeny Abalakov was able to complete the first ascent on September 3, 1933. Expedition leader Nikolai Gorbunow had to give up shortly before the summit. A climber had an accident while climbing.
The mountain is one of the five seven-thousand-meter peaks on the territory of the former USSR. The Snow Leopard Order is given to the climbers who have conquered all five peaks.
Three glaciers ( Fortambek , Moskvin and Walter glaciers ) lie on the north side of the mountain.
literature
- Eva Maurer: Paths to Stalin Peak. Soviet alpinists, 1928–1953 . Chronos, Zurich 2010, ISBN 978-3-0340-0977-5 .
Web links
- Pik Ismail Samani, Tajikistan on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Pik Imeni Ismail Samani at Peakware (English)
- Pik Kommunizma at summitpost.org
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Pointdexter, Joseph: Between heaven and earth. The 50 highest peaks. Könemann, Cologne 1999, ISBN 3-8290-3561-6 , p. 73
- ↑ Eva Maurer: The Soviet Alpinism in the Pamir. Thoughts on the first ascent of Stalin Peak 70 years ago. In: NZZ. September 11, 2003, accessed August 15, 2013 .