Yevgeny Mikhailovich Abalakov
Yevgeniy Abalakov ( Russian Евгений Михайлович Абалаков * 4 . Jul / 17th February 1907 greg. In Krasnoyarsk ; † 24. March 1948 in Moscow ) was a Soviet mountaineers . He became famous for the first ascent of Stalin Peak .
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Yevgeny Abalakov was a sculptor , mountaineer and master of alpinism . He graduated from the Moscow Art Institute in 1932 and became a member of the Union of Fine Artists of the USSR (Soyuz Chudozhnikov SSSR). In 1933, as the only participant in the expedition, he succeeded in the first ascent of Stalin Peak , which was the highest mountain in the Soviet Union with a height of 7495 m (renamed in 1962 and since then known as Communism Peak, name since 1998 Pik Ismoil Somoni; now the highest Summit of Tajikistan ). He also climbed over 50 other significant peaks, carried out scientific research in the mountainous regions of the Pamir and Tianshan, and wrote maps of these areas. During the Second World War he volunteered for the Red Army and took part in the Battle of Moscow and the fighting in the Caucasus in 1941/42 . During his military service he taught in a school for military mountaineering.
His brother Vitaly Michailowitsch Abalakow (1906-1986) was also a mountaineer.
Yevgeny Abalakov died in Moscow on the night of March 23-24, 1948 at the age of 41 under circumstances that were not exactly clarified. It seems certain that he was poisoned and that government agencies prevented an investigation into his death for years.
Several mountain peaks in the Pamir , Tianshan and other mountains are named after Yevgeny Abalakov , as well as a street in their hometown of Krasnoyarsk after him and his brother Vitali.
Web links
- Fixed point technology ( Memento from January 6, 2015 in the Internet Archive )
- Анатолий Ферапонтов. ; Восходители. Евгений Абалаков .
- "Abalakow firn safety sling" for pick ax (PDF file; 232 kB)
- Article Абалаковы (The Abalakovs) in the Great Soviet Encyclopedia (BSE) , 3rd edition 1969–1978 (Russian)
Individual evidence
- ^ Eva Maurer: Soviet Alpinism in the Pamir , September 11, 2003
personal data | |
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SURNAME | Abalakov, Yevgeny Mikhailovich |
ALTERNATIVE NAMES | Абалаков, Евгений Михайлович (Russian spelling) |
BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Soviet climber |
DATE OF BIRTH | February 17, 1907 |
PLACE OF BIRTH | Krasnoyarsk |
DATE OF DEATH | March 24, 1948 |
Place of death | Moscow |