Erwin Schneider (mountaineer)

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Erwin Schneider (around 1930)

Erwin Hermann Manfred Schneider (born April 13, 1906 in St. Joachimsthal ; † August 18, 1987 in Lech am Arlberg ) was an Austrian mountaineer and cartographer .

origin

Erwin Schneider was born on April 13, 1906 as the legitimate son of the hut manager Anton Schneider, who grew up in Kitzbühel , and Johanna born in Idria . Zazula was born in house no. 415 in the Bohemian town of Sankt Joachimsthal and was baptized a Catholic on May 10, 1906 in the name of Erwin Hermann Manfred Schneider. His grandfather was Florian Schneider from Klausen near Bozen.

Success as a mountaineer

A sensational achievement was the first ascent of Pik Lenin ( 7134  m ) on July 25, 1928 together with Karl Wien and Eugen Allwein - at the time the record for the highest mountain climbed - with the German-Soviet Alai-Pamir expedition . In the course of the international Himalaya expedition led by GO Dyhrenfurth in 1930, Schneider reached four more seven-thousand-meter peaks in the Kangchenjunga region and, together with other expedition members, improved the summit record to 7462 meters at Jongsang Ri .

At that time, only eleven seven-thousand-meter peaks had been climbed, Erwin Schneider had been involved in five of these first ascent, which had earned him some fame in mountaineering circles. At the beginning of his career, Hermann Buhl reverently referred to him as the “King of the Seven Thousand”.

Schneider was a member of the first two German-Austrian Alpine Club expeditions in the Peruvian Andes . In the course of a total of three expeditions in 1932, 1936 and 1939, 12 of the 18 six-thousanders of the Cordillera Blanca were first climbed (also mountains of the Cordillera Huayhuash ) and mountain maps of the region were created for the first time. In addition to his work as a cartographer, Schneider achieved many first ascents in particular.

Erwin Schneider was also a member of the tragic German Nanga Parbat expedition of 1934 . Together with Peter Aschenbrenner he reached a height of 7895  m , until a change in the weather caused most of the team to perish and the ascent was canceled. Schneider and Aschenbrenner were subsequently accused, among other things, of violating their duty to provide assistance. Ultimately, however, the two of them could not prove any wrongdoing and ultimately these disputes in the aftermath were also ideologically and competitively motivated.

An invitation to participate in the expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1953, during which Hermann Buhl managed the first ascent, was turned down by Schneider after disagreements with the organization management. According to Buhl's reports, Schneider gave him valuable information about the nature of the summit region in advance.

Services as a cartographer

Erwin Schneider was a member of the working group for comparative high mountain research , official cartographer of the German Alpine Association and had the title of professor.

In the follow-up to the Peru expeditions, several maps and books about the Peruvian Andes were published, which he was instrumental in creating.

Together with Rüdiger Finsterwalder , he created a large-scale map of parts of Nepal - the so-called "Schneider maps". These are considered by many experts to be unsurpassed worldwide in the way they depict extreme high mountain landscapes. In particular, the first high-quality maps of the Khumbus and the mountains around Mount Everest were created.

First ascents (excerpt)

Asia

South America

  • Huascarán Sur (highest mountain in Peru with 6746 m) on July 20, 1932, together with Wilhelm Bernard, Philipp Borchers, Erwin Hein, Hermann Hoerlin, Nestor Montes and Faustino Rojo on today's normal route.
  • Chopicalqui (6345 m) on August 3, 1932, together with Borchers, Hein and Hoerlin over the southwest ridge.
  • Artesonraju (6025 m) on August 19, 1932 together with Hein over the north ridge and north-east spur.
  • Huandoy (6395 m) on September 12, 1932 together with Hein over the southern slopes.
  • Copa (6188 m) on September 26, 1932 together with Hein over the west side.
  • Quitaraju (6036 m) on June 17, 1936 together with Arnold Awerzger over the west ridge.
  • Pucajirca Sur (6039 m) on July 1st, 1936 solo.
  • Siula Grande (6344 m) on July 28, 1936 together with Awerzger over the north ridge.
  • Rasac (6017 m) also solo in 1936.

literature

  • Dyhrenfurth, Günter O. (Eds.), Duvanel, C., Erwin Schneider and others: Himalaya. Our expedition in 1930. Berlin 1931.
  • Ebster, Fritz / Kinzl, Hans and Erwin Schneider: Cordillera Blanca. Map. Vienna 1949.
  • Niels Gutschow and Hermann Kreutzmann: Mapping the Kathmandu Valley with Aerial Photographs by Erwin Schneider. Kathmandu 2013.
  • Kinzl, Hans and Erwin Schneider: Cordillera Blanca (Peru). Innsbruck 1950.
  • Kinzl, Hans, Erwin Schneider and others: Cordillera Huayhuash. Peru. A picture of a high tropical mountain range. Andes tour of the Austrian Alpine Club in 1954. Innsbruck 1955
  • Hellmich, Walter et al.: Khumbu Himal. East Nepal map series 1: 50,000 in six sheets. 1965-1974.
  • Patzelt, Gernot: The mountain and glacier falls from Huascarán - Cordillera Blanca - Peru. Innsbruck 1983.

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Hafner et al .: Erwin Schneider on memory. Wagner. Innsbruck (2004)
  2. ↑ Státní oblastní archiv v Plzni, Jáchymov No. 58, p. 300f.
  3. ↑ Summit records in the Himalayas
  4. ↑ GO DYHRENFURTH: "THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1930" published in April 1, 1931 in THE HIMALAYAN JOURNAL 03 (www.himalayanclub.org)
  5. ↑ www.austria-lexikon.at - Biographies: Erwin Schneider
  6. ↑ Our Himalaya Expedition 1930 by Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth, Zurich, Hermann Hoerlin, Schwäbisch Hall, Erwin Schneider, Hall (Tyrol), Ulrich Nieland, Ulm (Danube) in the magazine of the German and Austrian Alpine Club Vol. 62 (1931)
  7. ↑ Buhl, Hermann: Eight thousand over and under, Nymphenburger Verl., Munich 1954 (and numerous later editions)
  8. ↑ Kiendler, Hermann: The Andes, Panico Alpinverlag, Köngen 2007
  9. ↑ According to some statements, they “only” came up to an altitude of 7850  m (see main article for more information).

Web links

personal data
SURNAME Schneider, Erwin
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Schneider, Erwin Hermann Manfred
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian mountaineer and cartographer
DATE OF BIRTH April 13, 1906
PLACE OF BIRTH Saint Joachimsthal
DATE OF DEATH August 18, 1987
Place of death Lech am Arlberg