German-Austrian Alpine Association expeditions in the Peruvian Andes

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In the 1930s, a total of three German-Austrian Alpine Association expeditions to the Peruvian Andes took place. The expeditions of 1932 and 1936 were organized by the German and Austrian Alpine Association (DuOeAV) and the successor organization of 1939, the German Alpine Association . In the course of these expeditions, 12 of the 18 six-thousanders of the Cordillera Blanca and some peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash were climbed for the first time and mountain maps of the region were created for the first time.

1932

The first expedition to the Cordillera Blanca started in March 1932 and lasted until the end of the year. The goals were ascent, scientific research and the creation of a map. The expedition was led by Philipp Borchers and had other members in Wilhelm Bernard, Erwin Hein, Hermann Hoerlein, Hans Kinzl and Erwin Schneider . First ascents:

  • Huascarán Sur (highest mountain in Peru with 6746 m) on July 20th through Bernard, Borchers, Hein, Hoerlein and Schneider via today's normal route.
  • Chopicalqui (6345 m) on August 3rd through Borchers, Hein, Hoerlein and Schneider over the southwest ridge.
  • Artesonraju (6025 m) on August 19 through Hein and Schneider over the north ridge and northeast spur.
  • Huandoy (6395 m) on September 12th through Hein and Schneider over the southern slopes.
  • Copa (6188 m) on September 26th through Hein and Schneider over the west side. Hoerlein undertook scientific measurements of cosmic rays and spent three weeks continuously at heights of over 5500 m.

1936

A smaller expedition led by Hans Kinzl and with Erwin Schneider and Arnold Awerzger had two other participants visited the Cordillera Blanca and achieved the following first ascents:

  • Pucajirca Sur (6039 m) on July 1st by Schneider.
  • Quitaraju (6036 m) on June 17th through Awerzger and Schneider over the west ridge.
  • Champará (5740 m) in the far north of the Cordillera Blanca.

The actual main goal of the expedition, however, was the Cordillera Huayhuash, which has now been visited by mountaineers for the first time. In addition to creating a topographic overview map, these peaks were climbed for the first time:

  • Siula Grande (6344 m) on July 28th through Awerzger and Schneider over the north ridge.
  • Rasac (6017 m) solo by Schneider.
  • In addition, two unsuccessful attempts to climb the Yerupajá by Awerzger, Kinzl and Schneider.

1939

In 1939, another larger expedition, led by Hans Kinzl, followed, with the particular aim of exploring the southern Cordillera Blanca. The six participants also included W. Brecht, Heckler, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid and H. Schweizer. The following were climbed for the first time:

  • Palcaraju (6274 m) on June 7th through Brecht, Rohrer, Schmid and Schweizer over the northeast ridge.
  • Ranrapalca (6162 m) on June 25th through Brecht, Rohrer, Schmid and Schweizer over the northeast ridge.
  • Tocllaraju (6034 m) on July 31 through Brecht and Schweizer over the northwest ridge .
  • Chinchey (6309 m) on August 2nd through Brecht and Schweizer over the north ridge.
  • Also in August: first ascent of Hualcan (6122 m) by Rohrer and Schmid over the south ridge.

In addition, during this expedition the Huascarán Norte (6555 m) was climbed repeatedly by Brecht, Heckler, Rohrer, Schmid and Schweizer. However, on August 28, 1939, two of the participants were killed by an avalanche and, as World War II broke out a few days later , the immediate return trip also failed. For example, Kinzl did not reach his home in Innsbruck until April 1941.

Follow-up time

In 1952, 1954 and 1964 further expeditions to Peru took place through Kinzl. In 1954, for example, the Sarapo in the Cordillera Huayhuash was climbed for the first time.

swell