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View of Carhuacocha

View of Carhuacocha

height 6635  m
location Huaraz , Peru
Mountains Cordillera Huayhuash , Andes
Coordinates 10 ° 16 ′ 6 ″  S , 76 ° 54 ′ 20 ″  W Coordinates: 10 ° 16 ′ 6 ″  S , 76 ° 54 ′ 20 ″  W
Yerupaja (Peru)
First ascent 1950 by Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah

The Yerupaja or Nevado Yerupaja is a mountain of the Cordillera Huayhuash in north-central Peru and part of the high mountain range of the Andes .

At 6635 m (according to other sources: 6617 m) it is the second highest peak in Peru and the highest point of the Cordillera Huayhuash. The summit was first climbed in 1950 by Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah , the north summit "Yerupaja Norte" in 1965 by Roger Bates and Graeme Dingle from Wellington .

In 1969 the anniversary expedition of the PES Innsbruck traveled to the Andes. The goal was the unclimbed east face of the Yerupaja. Their ascent succeeded Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler . However, they had to turn back on the summit ridge because the summit structure was made of rubble and the summit guard was made of soft snow; besides, it was too late in the afternoon. While Messner and Habeler first climbed the Yerupaja Chico ( 6121  m ) a few days later , Sepp Mayerl and Egon Wurm reached the summit of the Yerupaja Grande via the south-east pillar. They crossed the pre-summit, bivouacked near the summit (where Messner and Habeler had stepped out of the wall) and crossed below the summit to the right ridge, from where they could climb to the main summit.

So far, there have been only a few successful climbs of the Yerupaja summit because it is considered to be one of the most difficult Andean peaks to climb. The most popular access is from Huaraz via Chiquian and Jahuacocha .

In 1986 Erich Gatt and Klaus Springfeld (both from Innsbruck) managed the Direttissima of the Yerupaja West Face as a mini-expedition. It is considered to be the highest ice wall in the Andes. The descent was via the normal west wall.

See also

Web links

Commons : Yerupaja  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Reinhold Messner: Departure for adventure. The world's most famous alpinist tells us. Bergisch Gladbach 1979, pp. 122-133.