Reinhold Messner

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Reinhold Messner at the Frankfurt Book Fair 2017
Signature of Reinhold Messner in October 2016

Reinhold Andreas Messner (born  September 17, 1944 in Brixen , South Tyrol ) is an Italian extreme mountaineer , adventurer , author and former member of the European Parliament ( Verdi Grüne Vërc ).

Messner is one of the most famous mountaineers in the world. He and Peter Habeler were the first people to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1978 without the aid of bottled oxygen. Messner was the first to stand on the peaks of all fourteen eight-thousanders (1970–1986, each without bottled oxygen). He was also the first to climb an eight-thousander single-handedly ( Nanga Parbat 1978) and two years later he was the first to reach the highest peak on earth without bottled oxygen and single-handedly. He was also the second to climb all the peaks of the Seven Summits in 1986 . He also crossed the Antarctic (1989/1990 with Arved Fuchs ), Greenland (1993) and the Gobi Desert (2004).

Life

Reinhold Messner, Monte Rite 2002

Messner grew up with his eight siblings - Helmut (* 1943), Günther (1946–1970), Erich (* 1948), Waltraud (* 1949), Siegfried (1950–1985), Hubert (* 1953), Hansjörg (* 1955) and Werner (* 1957) - in Villnöß in South Tyrol. Today he lives in Merano and in July / August often at his listed Juval Castle at the entrance to the Schnalstal in South Tyrol's Vinschgau . He breeds yaks in the mountain village of Sulden am Ortler and has set up the Yak and Yeti restaurant in a renovated mountain farm . He also maintains the Messner Mountain Museum . His second home is Munich .

Messner studied surveying at the University of Padua . For a year he taught mathematics in a middle school.

Messner has been reflecting on his occasional extreme actions and planning in detail and publicly since the 1990s. This has made him, like many extreme athletes , a sought-after trainer at manager seminars. In 1992 Messner and Herbert Henzler , the former Germany boss of McKinsey , founded an association for top German managers, the Similauner   (after the mountain of the same name ), for joint mountain tours, downhill skiing races and professional lectures.

Messner was married to Uschi Demeter from 1972 to 1977. A daughter comes from his connection with Nena Holguin. On July 31, 2009, he married his long-time partner, the Viennese textile designer Sabine Stehle, with whom he has three children.

Importance for mountaineering

Messner changed the style of high-altitude mountaineering in the 1970s and 1980s . Inspired by the Austrian alpinist Hermann Buhl and the Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti , Messner was one of the first to transfer the style and tactics of alpine climbing to high altitude mountaineering in the Himalayas . He was the first to climb the eight-thousander in alpine style without bottled oxygen, infrastructure and fixed ropes , single-handedly, with a mountain partner or with small, flexible groups on the mountain, whereby the peaks no longer, as was customary until then, were no longer costly for weeks in expedition style with numerous high-altitude camps " besieged ”. In fact, thanks to the light and minimal equipment, the eight-thousanders could be climbed and left quickly in favorable weather conditions. So the time spent in the death zone was minimized.

“Reinhold Messner was one of the first ranks of young alpinists who rebelled against police operations, the cult of camaraderie and heroic phrases and who also allowed the new spirit of the time to blow on the mountains - admittedly also new phrases that were now psychological instead of heroic and of 'motivation' and of 'natural highs' resounded instead of honor and manliness. Messner took pleasure in breaking the sacred taboos of the climbing world. "

- Der Spiegel , July 23, 1979

Messner placed the end in itself of mountaineering as a psychological and physical borderline and self-awareness at the center of his undertakings and communicated this through the mass media . At the same time, with more than 80 book publications (as of 2014) about his adventures and expeditions, which have a suggestive language rich in metaphors , he has also contributed to the popularity of mountaineering as an extreme sport. As a rhetorically versed, often polemical mountaineer, Messner achieved a form of media presence and self- marketing that was previously unknown to mountaineers during and after his time as an active athlete . In addition to extraordinary sporting successes and records, his often polarizing statements on mountaineering, mass tourism and environmental issues contributed to this.

Political activity

Messner has been committed to environmental protection since the 1980s ; Among other things, he was an open promoter of the alternative list, which was running in 1983, for the other South Tyrol of the later green member of the European Parliament, Alexander Langer . In 1999 Messner himself was elected to the European Parliament for five years as a non-party candidate for the Greens of South Tyrol ( Verdi Grüne Vërc ) . From July 20, 1999 to July 19, 2004 he represented the Italian Greens there ( Federazione dei Verdi ). He then applied for re-election to the Bavarian Greens , but was not accepted as a candidate there. In spring 2012, in the run-up to a referendum, he promoted the expansion of Munich Airport .

Others

In September 1991 Messner happened to be present at the Ötzi find with Hans Kammerlander , after two days earlier the German mountain hikers Erika and Helmut Simon from Nuremberg had discovered the mummified corpse from the Neolithic Age in the ice of the Similaun glacier in the Ötztal Alps .

Expeditions

Ascent until 1970

Reinhold Messner drew attention to himself until 1970 mainly through his achievements in the Alps. By 1964 he carried out over 500 climbing tours, mostly in the Dolomites . In 1965 he was the first to climb the Ortler north face. A year later he climbed the Walker pillar of the Grandes Jorasses and the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero . In 1967 he undertook the first ascent of the Agnér north-east face and the first winter ascent of the Agnér north edge and the Furchetta north face. 1968 followed the next first ascents that the Heiligkreuzkofel -Mittelpfeilers and direct Marmolada -Südwand. The following year Messner took part in an Andes expedition, where he and Peter Habeler successfully climbed the Yerupaja east face to the summit ridge and a few days later the first ascent of the 6,121 meter high Yerupaja Chico. He also made the first solo ascent of the Droites north face, the Philipp intersection on the Civetta and the south face of the Marmolata di Rocca . Because of his achievements, Messner gained the reputation of being one of the best mountaineers in Europe. Therefore, in 1970 he was invited to a large Himalayan expedition. In the light of later successes, 1970 can be seen as one of the turning points in Messner's life and career.

Ascent of the eight-thousander after 1970

Reinhold Messner was the first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders on earth without additional oxygen. His ascents were always among the first twenty ascents of the respective mountain. In detail these are:

Location of the eight-thousanders
year Mountain (summit height in meters)
1970 Nanga Parbat (8125)
1972 Manaslu (8163)
1975 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) (8080)
1978 Mount Everest (8848), Nanga Parbat (8125)
1979 K2 (8611)
1980 Mount Everest (8848)
1981 Shishapangma (8027)
1982 Kangchenjunga (8586), Gasherbrum II (8034), Broad Peak (8051)
1983 Cho Oyu (8188)
1984 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) (8080), Gasherbrum II (8034)
1985 Annapurna (8091), Dhaulagiri (8167)
1986 Makalu (8485), Lhotse (8516)

Ascent of Nanga Parbat

Rupal wall of Nanga Parbat

Reinhold Messner undertook a total of five expeditions to Nanga Parbat . In 1970 and 1978 he reached the summit. In 1971, 1973 and 1977 he did not succeed in doing so, although in 1971 he was mainly looking for his brother's body.

Rupal wall 1970

In May and June 1970 Reinhold Messner took part in the Nanga Parbat south face expedition led by Karl Herrligkoffer , which had the goal of climbing the still unclimbed Rupal face, the highest steep face on earth. His brother Günther came up as a substitute . On the morning of June 27th, Reinhold Messner had started from the last high camp alone, assuming that the weather would soon worsen. but his brother surprisingly climbed after him and caught up with him before the summit. In the late afternoon they both reached the top of the mountain and had to put in an emergency bivouac without a tent, sleeping bags or stove due to the approaching evening. The following events are the subject of a long-term, also legal dispute between the expedition participants at the time and have not been finally resolved. At first it was only certain that Reinhold Messner descended over the Diamir flank and made the first crossing of Nanga Parbat (the second crossing of an eight-thousander after Mount Everest in 1963). He reached the valley after six days with severe frostbite and survived. His brother Günther, however, died. Reinhold Messner reported that his brother was lost when they descended on the Diamir flank. When they went down together, they were always far apart from each other.

Disputes and legal proceedings initially took place in the years immediately after the expedition between Reinhold Messner and the expedition leader Herrligkoffer. After his death and a quarter of a century of calm, the dispute flared up again in October 2001, when Reinhold Messner surprisingly raised accusations against his comrades at the time for failure to provide assistance. The comrades at the time also point out that Reinhold Messner told them about his thoughts on crossing the mountain in advance of climbing the summit; Messner himself asserts, however, that he made the decision for relegation on the Diamir side spontaneously and for safety reasons together with his brother. A series of new books ( Max-Engelhardt von Kienlin , Hans Saler , Ralf-Peter Märtin , Reinhold Messner) heated up the dispute (including speculation and personal attacks) and led to further legal proceedings.

In 2005 it was clarified that Reinhold Messner's version is correct, according to which his brother perished while descending the Diamir flank and not, as some critics suspected, when retreating over the Rupal wall. On the Diamir side, body parts and pieces of equipment were discovered on July 17, 2005 at an altitude of around 4600 meters. According to Reinhold Messner, he was able to identify his brother using the shoes and a jacket. DNA examinations of a bone residue at the Medical University of Innsbruck in October 2005 showed, according to the participating pathologist Walther Parson and his colleagues: The probability that the examined toe bone came from Messner's brother is “17.8 million times higher than that from him of a stranger ”. This proved that the glacier corpse was Günther Messner. However, the exact circumstances of death remain unknown.

The drama was filmed in 2008/2009 by Joseph Vilsmaier on the basis of the memories of Reinhold Messner and without the participation of the other expedition participants at the time under the title " Nanga Parbat ". The feature film was shown in cinemas from mid-January 2010 and cannot be regarded as a completely authentic documentation of the events of that time.

Reinhold Messner suffered frostbite, especially on his feet. Seven toes had to be amputated. As a result, he has not been able to climb rocks as well as before since the 1970 expedition. He turned to the higher mountains where there is a lot of ice.

Solo ascent 1978

After three failed expeditions, Reinhold Messner managed to climb Nanga Parbat alone in 1978, becoming the first person to climb an eight-thousander from the base to the summit on his own. He used the southern part of the Diamir flank and chose a new route for the ascent. He left the base camp on August 6th and reached the summit on the afternoon of August 9th, in which only a doctor friend and the obligatory escort officer were staying. Since an earthquake on August 8th had destroyed his ascent route, on August 11th, after a bad weather day, he left all his luggage below the summit and climbed back down to the base camp in a forced march over a dangerous direct route.

Ascent of Manaslu

In 1972 Messner succeeded in climbing Manaslu over the previously completely unknown south face of the mountain, of which there were not even any pictures. From the last high camp he climbed up with Franz Jäger, who turned around before reaching the summit. Shortly after reaching the summit, the weather changed and heavy fog and snowfall came up. At first Messner got lost on the way back, but later found his way back to the high camp, where Horst Fankhauser and Andreas Schlick were already waiting for Messner and Jäger. Jäger did not come back, although his calls could be heard from the camp. Orientation had become too difficult. Fankhauser and Schlick therefore began their search that evening, but they too got lost and initially sought protection in a snow cave. Messner himself was no longer able to search. The following day only Horst Fankhauser came back. Andi Schlick had left the snow cave that night and got lost too. Thus the expedition had to complain about two deaths. Messner was later accused of never allowing Franz Jäger to descend the mountain alone; an allegation that has been retracted by other participants in this Manaslu expedition.

Ascent of the Gasherbrum I

The ascent of Gasherbrum I was a milestone in mountaineering. For the first time, a small alpine-style expedition managed to climb an eight-thousander. Until then, all eight-thousanders had been climbed in the expedition style . Together with Peter Habeler , Messner achieved the second ascent of the mountain on August 10, 1975. With this ascent, Messner was the first person ever to climb more than two eight-thousanders.

In 1984 Messner reached the summit again, this time together with Hans Kammerlander . This happened as part of the only double crossing of two eight-thousanders (Gasherbrum I and II) to date, i.e. That is, they did not descend to base camp in between. In contrast to Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1996 , they chose a direct route from the first to the second mountain. This was also done in the alpine style, i.e. without having to create depots beforehand. The hike to the base camp as well as the start and return from the double crossing were documented in Werner Herzog's film Gasherbrum - The Shining Mountain .

Climbing Mount Everest

Mount Everest, in front of the Nuptse and on the right the Lhotse

On May 8, 1978, Reinhold Messner stood together with Peter Habeler on the summit of Mount Everest . They were the first people to do this without using additional oxygen. Before this ascent, it was disputed whether this would even be possible without any consequential damage to health. As participants in an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz, Messner and Habeler climbed the southern route to the summit. Reinhard Karl was also present on this expedition , who was the first German to reach the summit (with additional oxygen).

Two years later, on August 20, 1980, Messner was once again standing on the highest mountain on earth. This time, too, he climbed without additional oxygen. For his solo ascent he chose the north route to the summit, where he crossed above the north saddle in the north face to the Norton Couloir and was the first to climb this steep gorge to the summit. Messner spontaneously decided on this route during the ascent in order to avoid the exposed northeast ridge. Before this solo ascent, he had not set up any camps on the mountain.

Ascent of the K2

The K2 from Concordiaplatz seen

For 1979 Messner planned to climb the K2 on a new, direct route through the south face, which he called "Magic Line". The small expedition led by Messner consisted of six mountaineers, the Italians Alessandro Gogna , Friedl Mutschlechner and Renato Casarotto , the Austrian Robert Schauer and the German Michl Dacher as well as the German journalist Jochen Hoelzgen and the doctor Ursula Grether, who injured herself on the approach, and von Messner and Mutschlechner had to be carried to Askole. Because of the danger of avalanches in the originally planned route and the loss of time on the approach, the decision was made to go to the Abbruzzengrat. The route was equipped with fixed ropes and high camps, but the help of high carriers and the use of bottled oxygen was dispensed with. On July 12th, Messner and Dacher reached the summit, after which the weather deteriorated and the attempts of the other participants failed.

Ascent of Shishapangma

During his stay in Tibet as part of the Everest solo trip, Messner already had the opportunity to explore Shishapangma . A year later, Messner, together with Friedl Mutschlechner , Oswald Oelz and Gerhard Baur, set up the base camp on the north side of the only eight-thousander that is entirely on Chinese territory. Sometimes as a ski ascent, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the summit on May 28 in very bad weather.

Ascent of the Kangchenjunga

In 1982 Messner wanted to be the first ever mountaineer to climb three eight-thousanders in one year. He planned to start on Kangchenjunga , and then climb Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak .

Messner had decided on a new ascent variant in the north face. Since there was still a lot of snow at the time of the expedition, Messner and Mutschlechner made very slow progress. Due to the mountaineering difficulties, the mountaineers were forced to use fixed ropes. On May 6th, Messner, Mutschlechner and Ang Dorje stood on the summit. There Mutschlechner suffered frostbite on his hands, and later on his feet. While bivouacking on the descent, Messner and Mutschlechner's tent tore up, and Messner also fell ill. He suffered from an amoebic abscess in his liver, which made him very weak. Only with the help of Mutschlechner did he make it back to base camp.

Ascent of the Gasherbrum II

After climbing Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Europe because the frostbite had to be treated, and Messner also needed rest. So neither of them could finish the trilogy as planned. Messner was able to be cured of his amoebic abscess in the liver and then traveled to Gasherbrum II , which he was then unable to cross via new routes as planned. His rope companions Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir were not strong enough for that. Nevertheless, all three reached the summit in a storm on July 24th. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later when crossing the GI-GII.

Ascent of Broad Peak

With Broad Peak, Messner climbed the third eight-thousander in 1982. At that time he had the only permit to climb this mountain, but Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka came towards him . They actually had a permit to climb the K2 and took advantage of the geographic proximity to also climb Broad Peak (illegally). Messner himself again stood on the summit with Khan and Sabir on August 2nd; the three climbers had set off for neighboring Broad Peak immediately after climbing Gasherbrum II. The ascent was done with a variant in the entry on the normal route.

Ascent of Cho Oyu

In the winter of 1982/1983 Messner attempted the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu . He came to about 7500 m altitude. There, the large masses of snow forced him to turn back. On this expedition, Hans Kammerlander was Messner's mountain partner for the first time. A few months later he reached the summit on May 5th, along a partially new route together with Kammerlander and Michl Dacher .

Ascent of Annapurna

In 1985 Messner managed to climb Annapurna . He and Kammerlander reached the summit on April 24 via a new route in the north-west face. Also on this expedition were Reinhard Patscheider , Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach the summit. The weather was already not good when Messner and Kammerlander climbed it; because of heavy snowfall, the other three had to help them descend.

Ascent of Dhaulagiri

Messner failed on the Dhaulagiri south face in 1977

Messner had tried to climb Dhaulagiri as early as 1977 and 1984, but failed. In 1985 he had success. He climbed the normal route (northeast ridge) with Kammerlander. After only three days of climbing, they reached the summit in a strong thunderstorm on May 15th.

Ascent of the Makalu

Messner tried four times to climb Makalu . It failed in 1974 on the south wall and in 1981 on the southeast ridge. In the winter of 1985/1986 Messner tried the first winter ascent of Makalu via the normal route. This did not succeed either. It was not until February 2009 that Simone Moro and Denis Urubko successfully climbed the Makalu for the first time in winter.

In 1986 Messner, together with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner, managed to climb the normal route. Although they had to turn back twice on the mountain on this expedition, they reached the summit on the third attempt on September 26th. During this expedition, Messner witnessed the death of Marcel Rüedi , who had climbed the 9th eight-thousander with the Makalu. Rüedi was on the way back from the summit and was watched by Messner and the other mountaineers descending. He was progressing slowly, but apparently safely. The tea for reception was already brewed when Rüedi disappeared behind a ridge of snow and did not appear again. He was found dead a short time later.

Ascent of the Lhotse

Messner climbed his last eight-thousander, the Lhotse , on October 16, 1986 together with Hans Kammerlander over the normal route. Both climbers had to struggle with the strong wind in the summit area. In order to be able to reach the summit this year and before the onset of winter, the Lhotse base camp was approached directly by helicopter from Makalu base camp. Messner was the first person to successfully climb all 8000m peaks before Jerzy Kukuczka . After this ascent, Messner has never been on an eight-thousander again. In 1989 Messner led a European expedition on the south face of the mountain. The aim of this was to find a way through the then still unclimbed wall. Messner himself, however, no longer wanted to rise. The expedition was also unsuccessful.

Further tours after 1970

Reinhold Messner (2004)

The Messner Mountain Museum

From 2003 Messner worked on the project of a mountain museum. On June 11, 2006 the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, which unites the growth and decay of the mountains, the cultures in the Himalayan region and the history of South Tyrol in one museum. The MMM consists of the central part at Sigmundskron Castle , which focuses on the relationship between mountain and people, as well as five branches in which individual topics are dealt with:

  • The Juval Castle in Burggrafenamt dedicated to the theme of the mystical mountains as Kailash or Uluru , and their religious dimensions.
  • The MMM on Monte Rite (2181 meters) is dedicated to the subject of rocks, especially the Dolomites. The history of the development of the Dolomites is discussed. It is housed in an old fort.
  • The fourth MMM is located in Sulden am Ortler . Everything here revolves around ice cream. The history of mountaineering in ice and the great glacier masses of the earth are discussed. Next to the MMM is the “Yak und Yeti” inn.
  • The fifth MMM was opened in July 2011 at Bruneck Castle in Val Pusteria . In addition to the presentation of the different mountain peoples, such as Sherpa , Tibetans and Hunza , guests from mountain regions should report on their lives in the castle every year.
  • The sixth MMM on Plan de Corones deals with the topic of climbing and was opened in July 2015. There will be no other museums, according to Messner, who at the opening of the museum designed by Zaha Hadid also considered the completed MMM project as his “15th Eight-thousanders ".

Publications

Reinhold Messner - Juval Castle

1970-1979

  • Back to the mountains. Mountaineering as a way of life. Thoughts and images. An illustrated book . Athesia, Bolzano 1970.
  • The red rocket on Nanga Parbat: script for a film that can never be shown . Nymphenburger, Munich 1971, ISBN 3-485-01754-X .
  • Departure for adventure. Mountain experiences from 5 continents . Athesia, Bolzano 1972.
  • Storm at Manaslu. Himalayan Expedition Report . BLV, Munich 1972, ISBN 3-405-11234-6 .
    • New edition: Storm on Manaslu. Drama on top of the world . Frederking & Thaler, Munich 2008, ISBN 978-3-89405-858-6 .
  • The seventh degree. Extreme mountaineering: technique, training, experience . BLV, Munich 1973, ISBN 3-405-11261-3 .
  • The extremes. 5 decades 6th degree. BLV, Munich 1974, ISBN 3-405-11305-9 .
  • Via ferrata I - Dolomites . Athesia, Bozen 1974.
  • Mountain peoples of the earth: ... before their tracks disappear . Athesia, Bozen 1975.
  • Arena of solitude. Expeditions yesterday, today, tomorrow . Athesia, Bozen 1976.
  • The challenge - two and one eight-thousander . BLV, Munich 1976. ISBN 3-405-11884-0 .
  • The big walls - stories, routes, experiences . BLV, Munich 1977. ISBN 3-405-11795-X .
  • Via ferrata II - Eastern Alps . Athesia, Bozen 1978.
  • Border area of ​​the death zone . Kiepenheuer & Witsch, Cologne 1978, ISBN 3-462-01293-2 .
  • Everest - Expedition to the end point . BLV, Munich 1978, ISBN 3-405-12088-8 .
  • Going it alone Nanga Parbat . BLV, Munich 1979, ISBN 3-405-12090-X .
  • The Alps (Sigloch Edition, Künzelsau), 1979.

1980-1989

  • K2 - mountain of mountains . BLV, Munich 1980.
  • The glass horizon. Through Tibet to Mount Everest . BLV, Munich 1982, ISBN 3-405-12594-4 .
    • New edition: Everest Solo - The glass horizon . S. Fischer, Frankfurt 2000, ISBN 3-10-049413-X .
  • My way . Goldmann, Munich 1982.
  • All of my peaks . Herbig, Munich 1982, ISBN 3-7766-1223-1 .
  • Conquered peaks . Herbig, Munich 1982.
  • 3 × 8000 - My Great Himalayan Year . Herbig, Munich 1983, ISBN 3-7766-1281-9 .
  • Become a mountaineer with Reinhold Messner . BLV, Munich 1984, ISBN 3-405-12814-5 .
  • Reinhold Messner's reading book . Bruckmann, Munich 1985, ISBN 3-7654-1984-2 .
  • Race to the summit . Herbig, Munich 1986, ISBN 3-7766-1398-X .
  • Free climbing with Paul Preuss . BLV, Munich 1986, ISBN 3-405-13128-6 .
  • Survived - All 14 eight-thousanders . BLV, Munich 1987, ISBN 3-405-13416-1 .
  • The goddess of turquoise. The way to Cho Oyu . Bergverlag-Rother, Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-7010-2 .
  • My dolomites . Herbig, Munich 1989, ISBN 3-7766-1545-1 .
  • The option. In 1939, 86% of South Tyroleans voted to give up their homeland, why? A lesson in contemporary history . Piper, Munich Ed. 1989, ISBN 3-492-03290-7 .
  • The most beautiful peaks in the world . Sigloch Edition, Künzelsau 1989, ISBN 3-89393-060-4 .
  • The freedom to go wherever I want . Piper, Munich 1989, ISBN 3-492-03354-7 .

1990-1999

2000-2010

Since 2011

literature

  • Gero von Boehm : Reinhold Messner. April 27, 2009. Interview in: Encounters. Images of man from three decades. Collection Rolf Heyne, Munich 2012, ISBN 978-3-89910-443-1 , pp. 661-670.
  • Volker Caysa , Wilhelm Schmid : Reinhold Messner's philosophy: Make sense in a world without sense. edition Suhrkamp, ​​Frankfurt a. M. 2001, ISBN 978-3-518-12242-6 .
  • Andreas Gottlieb Hempel: The Messner Mountain Museums. Architecture and mountains. Callwey, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3-7667-1911-9 .
  • Magdalena Maria Messner, Udo Bernhart (photos): Reinhold Messner, self-sufficient & mountain farmer. blv, Munich 2014, ISBN 978-3-8354-1307-8 .
  • Wibke Backhaus: Stories from the "mountain of fate". Revisions of the heroic in Reinhold Messner's expedition reports from Nanga Parbat. In: zeitgeschichte , 43, 2016, no. 1, pp. 39–54.

Filmography

  • Gasherbrum - The shining mountain . Director: Werner Herzog , 1984. Film about Messner and Kammerlander and their double transgression of Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I.
  • Do you understand fun? - Kiosk on the Matterhorn with Reinhold Messner , 1988.
  • Mount Everest - death zone. Documentation, 50 min., Released on DVD in 2002. Documentation about the first ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen in 1978 by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler .
  • “I'm a semi-nomad myself.” With Reinhold Messner in the Mongolian steppe. Documentation, 45 minutes, a film by Elke Werry, production: SWR , first broadcast: January 29, 2006.
  • Messner's Alps. Three-part television documentary, presented by Reinhold Messner, produced by Schwenk Film GmbH with SWR, Wega Film, France 5, S4C Wales, MEDIA-Plus of the European Union, Fernsehfonds Austria, MFG Baden-Württemberg and Filmfonds Rhône-Alpes. First broadcast: ARD 30./31. December 2007, January 1, 2008.
  • Höhenrausch: With Reinhold Messner in the Dolomites. Documentation, 45 min., A film by Andreas Ammer , production: Bayerischer Rundfunk , first broadcast: May 5, 2005. A portrait in which Messner's literary and philosophical significance is dealt with above all.
  • Nanga Parbat . Motion pictures. Director: Joseph Vilsmaier in collaboration with Reinhold Messner. Release date: January 14, 2010. Length: 104 minutes. The film traces the tragic events of 1970 in which Messner's brother died on Nanga Parbat.
  • Messner . Docudrama, Germany 2012. Director: Andreas Nickel. Length: 108 minutes. Release date: September 27, 2012. The film shows interviews with Reinhold Messner's closest confidante, archive material, family photos, recreates important life stages of the South Tyrolean extreme athlete and tries to find out what drives him.

Director

  • Still Alive - Drama on Mt. Kenya . Docudrama 2016. Director: Reinhold Messner. The film tells the story of two medical students from Innsbruck, one of whom had anaccidenton Mt. Kenya in 1970, and his rescue operation.
  • Cerro Torre myth . Documentation and report, Argentina / Chile 2020. Direction: Reinhold Messner. The director goes in search of the truth about the unproven first ascent by Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger on January 30, 1959.

Honors

Web links

Commons : Reinhold Messner  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Wikiquote: Reinhold Messner  - Quotes

Articles and interviews

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Clemens Kratzer: Messner - the film . In: Alpin - Das BergMagazin . No. 9 , 2012, ISSN  0177-3542 , p. 9 .
  2. ↑ Lisa Stocker: Waltraud Kastlunger and her brothers. BRIGITTE-woman.de, April 9, 2009, accessed August 15, 2012 .
  3. ↑ Group picture: Similauner In: Manager Magazin , May 15, 2008.
  4. ^ Dietmar Student: Networks. The secret power circles of managers. In: Manager Magazin , No. 3, March 7, 2011.
  5. ↑ Reinhold Messner tricked the curious: married a day earlier. In: OÖNachrichten. Upper Austria. Online GmbH & Co.KG, August 1, 2009, accessed on September 12, 2019 .
  6. ^ Reinhold Messner, Sandro Filippini: Walter Bonatti. Il fratello che non sapevo di avere . Mondadori Electa, 2015, ISBN 978-88-918056-0-7 ( com.br [accessed November 29, 2017]).
  7. ↑ Departure for the death zone. Messner's expedition to the K-2, part 2 . In: Der Spiegel . No. 31 , 1979, pp. 123 ( online - 30 July 1979 ).
  8. ↑ Advertising page of the airport company
  9. ↑ Dominik Hutter & Marco Völklein: No to the third runway - it's not always easy for posters either . In: Süddeutsche Zeitung . June 20, 2012
  10. ↑ Interview with Markus Pirpamer derstandard.at, accessed on February 7, 2016
  11. ↑ Reinhold Messner: Departure for adventure. The world's most famous alpinist tells us. Bergisch Gladbach 1979, ISBN 3-404-01151-1 , pp. 122-133.
  12. ↑ DNA test: Günther Messner was the glacier corpse. In: www.tagesspiegel.de. Retrieved March 16, 2016 .
  13. ^ Walther Parson, Anita Brandstätter, Harald Niederstätter, Petra Grubwieser, Richard Scheithauer: Unraveling the mystery of Nanga Parbat . In: International Journal of Legal Medicine . tape 121 , no. 4 , May 4, 2006, ISSN  0937-9827 , p. 309-310 , doi : 10.1007 / s00414-006-0098-6 ( springer.com [accessed March 2, 2017]).
  14. ↑ DNA testing cannot end a dispute. In: https://www.merkur.de/ . Retrieved March 16, 2016 .
  15. ↑ Website for the movie Nanga Parbat ( Memento from February 26, 2012 in the Internet Archive )
  16. ↑ kbu: The feet of the extreme mountaineer. In: stern , November 3, 2006.
  17. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n Messner, Reinhold: Survived - All 14 eight-thousanders with chronicle , BLV, Munich 2002, 8th, revised edition, ISBN 3-405-15788-9 .
  18. ↑ Spinning fashion: Messner - Il film. July 7, 2016, accessed October 17, 2016 .
  19. ↑ Messner, Reinhold and Gogna, Alessandro: K2 - Mountain of Mountains . BLV, Munich 1980, ISBN 3-405-12220-1 .
  20. ↑ a b Messner, Reinhold: All my peaks . Herbig, Munich 1983, ISBN 3-7766-1780-2 .
  21. ^ OV: Shisha Pangma. In: American Alpine Journal 1989, p. 287 (AAJO) , accessed November 23, 2012.
  22. ↑ personal communication from a Sherpa who was present at the time
  23. ↑ Kammerlander, Hans: Bergsüchtig . Piper, Munich 2001, 6th edition, ISBN 3-492-23245-0 , p. 81 ff.
  24. ↑ Thomas Kunze: Messner's 15th eight-thousander. In: Berliner Zeitung , July 8, 2006.
  25. ^ Website of the MMM
  26. ↑ Peter Prantner: Messner drives Zaha Hadid to the summit. "The climber's 6th prank". In: orf.at. July 23, 2015, accessed August 1, 2015 .
  27. ^ Excerpt ( memento of September 24, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) from Reinhold Messner's reading book , 1985.
  28. ↑ Best of Understand Fun - Kiosk on the Matterhorn with Reinhold Messner on YouTube
  29. ↑ Summary of "Höhenrausch: With Reinhold Messner in the Dolomites" ( Memento from August 27, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) at Bayerischer Rundfunk
  30. ↑ Summary and criticism of "Nanga Parbat" ( memento from January 16, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) at Bayerischer Rundfunk
  31. ↑ Table of contents and film data , cinema.de, accessed on October 3, 2012
  32. ↑ Interview: “Still Alive?”: Reinhold Messner on his first directorial work. Retrieved October 13, 2016 .
  33. ↑ "Myth of Cerro Torre": Reinhold Messner on the search for traces, bergwelten.com, September 13, 2019, accessed on May 21, 2020.
  34. ^ Kurier: Academy ROMY: The prices for the stars behind the stars . Article dated April 11, 2019, accessed April 12, 2019.
  35. ↑ Butterflies named Messner, Habeler and Lama orf.at, April 29, 2020, accessed April 29, 2020.
  36. ↑ Peter Huemer: Integrative revision of the Caryocolum schleichi species group - a striking example of a temporally changing species concept (Lepidoptera, Gelechiidae) Alpine Entomology 4 (April 23, 2020) pp. 39–63, accessed April 29, 2020 - https : //doi.org/10.3897/alpento.4.50703
personal data
SURNAME Messner, Reinhold
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Messner, Reinhold Andreas (full name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian extreme mountaineer, adventurer, politician (South Tyrol), MEP
DATE OF BIRTH September 17, 1944
PLACE OF BIRTH Brixen