Ama Dablam
| Ama Dablam | ||
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| height | 6814 m | |
| location | Solukhumbu District ( Nepal ) | |
| Mountains | Mahalangur Himal ( Himalaya ) | |
| Dominance | 11.19 km → Baruntse north summit | |
| Notch height | 1027 m ↓ Amphulapcha La ( 5787 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 27 ° 51 '40 " N , 86 ° 51' 41" E | |
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| First ascent | 1961 by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Michael Ward and Wally Romanes | |
| Normal way | Southwest ridge | |
 Panorama - Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam |
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The Ama Dablam ( Sanskrit : "mother and her necklace") is a 6814 m high mountain in the Mahalangur Himal in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas .
The mountain is also known as the " Matterhorn of Nepal ". In addition to the main peak, it consists of a smaller secondary peak, which is 5563 m high, as well as 5 main ridges (southwest ridge [normal path], northwest ridge [Tsuro ridge], north ridge, east ridge, south ridge) [Lagunak ridge]) and 5 main walls (west wall [Mingbo wall], north-west wall [Duwo wall], north-east wall, south-east wall, south wall).
The ascent requires an official permit ( Permit ) the Nepalese government and the presence of a liaison officer. The ascent is technically relatively demanding.
Ascent history
The Ama Dablan first came into the focus of expeditions after Nepal opened its borders to foreigners in 1949.
Fred Beckey allegedly made his first unofficial ascent attempt in 1955 . In 1958, John Cunningham and Giuseppe Pirovano reached an altitude of approx. 6100 meters on the southwest ridge as part of the Gregory expedition . They had to give up there. A year later, the British Michael Harris and George Fraser did not return from an attempt to climb the north ridge as participants in the British Sola Khumbu Expedition . They were last seen at an altitude of about 6500 meters and have been considered lost ever since.
In 1961 Edmund Hillary was on an expedition in the Khumbu to investigate altitude sickness and acclimatization . A climbing permit for the Ama Dablam was not available, nevertheless, during Hillary's absence, a group of his expedition made an illegal attempt to climb it. On March 13, 1961, the New Zealander Mike Gill , the American Barry Bishop and the British doctor Michael Ward reached the summit. They climbed the mountain via the so-called normal route, which runs over the southwest ridge. The Nepalese government reacted and ordered the expedition to be stopped immediately. After two weeks of negotiations and payment of a fine, Hillary was able to continue the expedition.
The second ascent of Ama Dablam did not take place until 1979, after no climbing permits had been granted for years. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe climbed the heavily furrowed south face single-handedly. In the autumn of that year, a French expedition led by Raymond Renaud made the ascent. This over the north ridge, which is considered very difficult.
At the same time, under the leadership of Edmund Hillary's son, Peter Hillary, a New Zealand team tried to climb the extremely demanding and over 2000 meter high Mingbo West Face. The New Zealander Ken Hyslop was fatally hit by a large falling piece of a hanging glacier, the other three climbers were injured. A rope team with Reinhold Messner , Wolfgang Nairz and Oswald Oelz who was staying in the base camp organized the rescue of the injured. Messner and Oelz recovered the mountaineers who could be flown out by helicopter.
In 1980 another attempt to climb the west face failed. For this, the New Zealander Rob Hall managed the second ascent over the north ridge. At the age of 19, Hall was the youngest summit climber of Ama Dablam.
The east ridge was first conquered in 1983 by Alain Hubert and André Georges.
In 1985 a mixed group from the USA and Spain climbed the southeast ridge ("Lagunak ridge") for the first time. A month later, Americans Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy successfully climbed the east face in alpine style .
The north-west ridge was conquered as the last unclimbed ridge in 2001 by Jules Cartwright and Rich Ross.
In April 2002, an ascent by Hans Kammerlander and cameraman Hartmann Seeber was broadcast live on ARD television.
In November 2006, an avalanche from a Sérac hit camp 3, which was actually considered safe, and partially tore it into the abyss. Three climbers and three Sherpas died .
In November 2009 the 16-year-old Scottish teenager Calum Macintyre climbed the Ama Dablam as the youngest climber to date. On November 11, 2017, Russian base jumper Valery Rosov, sponsored by Red Bull , died while attempting a parachute jump from the summit.
literature
- Edmund Hillary, Desmond Doig: Snowmen and Mountaineers. German Book Association Berlin, 1964.
- Robb Segavio: Ama Dablam - 50 years of adventures on the holy horn. Waanders-Siddharta Publishing, Feldkirch, Austria, 2010.
- Robb Waanders: Ama Dablam: Fifty Years of Adventure and Field Research. Siddharta Publishing, Feldkirch 2013/2015
Web links
- Ama Dablam on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Leipzig Ama Dablam Expedition 2006
- Image gallery of Ama Dablam from different perspectives on flickr.com (CC-BY)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Mountain conquered by teenager , BBC News , Nov. 6, 2009
- ↑ Russian extreme athlete Valery Rosov has died. t-online.de , November 12, 2017, accessed April 27, 2018 .