Hans Kammerlander

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Hans Kammerlander, 2001

Hans Kammerlander (* 6. December 1956 in Ahornach ) is a native of South Tyrol Italian professional mountaineer and - skiers .

The mountaineer is known for his tours in different mountains around the world. In addition to numerous first and solo ascents in the Alps , he has climbed mountains in Asia and South America , including twelve eight-thousanders . Together with Reinhold Messner , he managed the first double crossing on eight-thousanders: Gasherbrum II directly followed by the Hidden Peak . On Mount Everest , he attempted the first complete ski run from the summit, but unfavorable snow conditions prevented a full run. In addition, from 1996 to 2006 he held the record for the fastest ascent of the highest mountain in the world. He gives lectures on many of his mountain tours, mainly in German-speaking countries.

biography

Hans Kammerlander was born as a “latecomer” and sixth child of a mountain farming family in Ahornach and still lives there today. He grew up as a typical mountain farmer's child who had to go to school in the morning and help out on the farm the rest of the day. When Hans was ten years old, his mother died; then an older sister took over the role of mother.

At the age of eight he climbed his first mountain in 1964. After being asked by a couple of tourists on his way to school for the way to the Großer Moosstock ( 3,059  m , in the Durreck group ), he secretly followed them to the summit. In the following years, Kammerlander's alpine ventures increased steadily. His brother Alois found out about the numerous, rather daring tours in 1971 and registered the now 15-year-old for a climbing course so that he could learn "how to use the rope". At the age of 16, Kammerlander began to work on the construction sites of the booming South Tyrol. He joined in 1973 the Maple Acher mountain running association with and operating the sport competitively for six years. Since the end of his active time he has continued to do mountain runs, now as the main part of his training. At the age of 18, Kammerlander began training as a mountain guide and ski instructor in South Tyrol's first training course, where he met his future rope partners Hanspeter Eisendle and Friedl Mutschlechner . At the age of 21 he was allowed to take the exams in 1977 and after passing them he was a state-certified mountain and ski guide and ski instructor. For years, Kammerlander worked on the side for the local mountain rescue service in his home community.

Kammerlander completed a large number of climbing tours in the Alps, including 50 first ascents (including the second Sella tower, Fata Morgana, or Shit Hubert on Piz Ciavazes ). In addition, he managed 60 solo ascents up to VI. Difficulty level , for example on the Civetta , the Drei Zinnen , the Heiligkreuzkofel and the Marmolada in the Dolomites . In the Western Alps , Kammerlander climbed the north faces of the Matterhorn (1976), Grandes Jorasses and Eiger (1981), which are among the great north faces of the Alps .

Kammerlander, who was also the head of the Alpine School in South Tyrol for many years (15 years from 1988 to 2003), is best known for climbing 12 of the 14 eight-thousanders in the Himalayas and Karakoram , seven of them together with Reinhold Messner . In 1990 he was the first person to ski down from the summit of Nanga Parbat , followed in 1996 from the summit of Mount Everest .

Kammerlander met the Dalai Lama twice, the first time in 2005 in Brixen and a second time during his stay in Milan in early December 2007 . He supports educational projects in Nepal and energy aid projects in Cambodia .

Hans Kammerlander is divorced and has a daughter.

On November 26, 2013, while drunk, Kammerlander caused a traffic accident in South Tyrol near Uttenheim , in which he himself was seriously injured and his opponent was fatally injured. According to media reports at home and abroad, the killed René Eppacher was considered to be the cause of the accident, Kammerlander's manager Sigi Pircher intervened against the Rai Tagesschau , which Hans Kammerlander had identified as the perpetrator.

On February 5, 2015, Kammerlander reached a court settlement with the public prosecutor to avoid charges of negligent homicide : the verdict was two years probation and one year driving license revocation for negligent homicide and drink-driving.

Special alpine tours

Solo ascents

Before his expeditions in the Himalayas, Kammerlander was a climber in the Alps. His tours also included numerous solo ascent of famous and difficult walls:

year mountain wall route Degree annotation
1976 First Sella tower Schober Rossi VI
1978 Small pinnacle South wall Egger-Sauschek VI +, A0 1. Solo ascent
Yellow edge VI–
Smallest pinnacle Cassin route VI
First Sella tower Tissi route VI–
Piz Ciavazes South wall Schubert route VI–
1979 Tofana di Rozes Southwest edge VI
Southeast edge VI, A2
1980 Vulture wall Southwest wall Pallet loader VI, A0 1. Solo ascent
Great pinnacle North face Mauro Minuzzo route VI, A1
First Sella tower South pillar VI–
Cinque Torri Torre Grande Via Germania VI +
Torre Seconda North intersection VI +
1981 Cima Scotoni Southwest wall Dibona Memorial Route VI +
Punta di Frida Southeast wall Comici V-VI
Brunico Tower Northwest wall VI
Winklerturm South wall Steger route VI
1983 Peitlerkofel North face Messner route VI– 1. Solo ascent

Enchaînement of the north walls of Ortler and Großer Zinne

In 1991, Kammerlander succeeded in enchaînement of the north faces of Ortler ( 3905  m ) and Großer Zinne ( 2999  m ). After the tragic Manaslu - Expedition of 1991 (see below ) Kammerlander was traumatized psychologically and had mountain climb stopped. But he kept a promise to his nephew that led them to the Zwölferkofel in the Sesto Dolomites . Through the tour, Kammerlander found back to his mountain enthusiasm and was able to realize a two-year-old plan in August. Within 24 hours, he climbed with his partner Hans Peter Eisendle the north face of Mount Ortler, then rode a bike 247 km from Solda to Landro and climbed to conclude the North Face of Cima Grande. They conquered almost 1400 meters in altitude on the Ortler and 550 on the Große Zinne. They were supported on the bike course by two friends who gave them a slipstream .

With Reinhold Messner around South Tyrol

With a media-effective hiking and climbing tour over 1200 kilometers along the South Tyrolean border, Kammerlander and Reinhold Messner drew public attention to the past, present and future of South Tyrol in autumn 1991. The start and finish point of the tour was the Salurner Klause , southern end and language border of South Tyrol. Without a day of rest, they covered 100,000 meters of ascent and descent in 40 days and climbed 300 peaks. When the two mountaineers were near the Tisenjoch in the Ötztal Alps , the " Ötzi " had just been found. They then paid a visit to the site.

The four Matterhorn ridges in 24 hours

Matterhorn, 4478  m

In 1992 Kammerlander put another “24-hour idea” into practice. With the Swiss mountain guide Diego Wellig he climbed the Matterhorn ( 4478  m ) over its four ridges in one day. The start took place at midnight on the Zmuttgrat , via which they reached the summit for the first time. They completed the first crossing over the Hörnligrat. Afterwards they committed the Furggengrat in the ascent and the Liongrat in the descent and then in the ascent. The third crossing was completed by the Hörnligrat descent. This ridge also served as the route for the last ascent of the day. After again reaching the summit, the duo returned to the at 23:30 Hörnlihütte back.

Successes on the eight-thousanders

Between 1983 and 2001, Hans Kammerlander climbed 12 eight-thousanders . The Shishapangma (8027 m) is not counted because in 1996 Kammerlander only reached the central summit (8008 m). The attempt at Manaslu in 1991 ended unsuccessfully, and his friends Friedl Mutschlechner and Carlo Großrubatscher had a fatal accident. It was not until October 2017 that Kammerlander attempted another attempt at Manaslu. Due to very large amounts of fresh snow, he broke off the company on November 12th.

Overview eight-thousanders

Location of the eight-thousanders.
year mountain height route
1983 Cho Oyu 8188  m Southwest flank
1984 Gasherbrum II 8034  m Southwest ridge
Hidden Peak 8080  m West ridge, northwest face
1985 Annapurna 8091  m Northwest wall
Dhaulagiri 8167  m Northeast ridge
1986 Makalu 8485  m French route
Lhotse 8516  m Northwest wall
1990 Nanga Parbat 8125  m Kinshofer route
1994 Broad Peak 8051  m South wall
1996 Shishapangma 8008  m (central summit)  North ridge
Mount Everest 8848  m North side
1998 Kangchenjunga 8586  m Southwest wall
2001 K2 8611  m Cesen route

Cho Oyu

In the middle of 1982, Kammerlander was invited by Reinhold Messner, at whose alpine school Messner - South Tyrol he worked, to accompany him on a winter expedition to Cho Oyu ( 8188  m ). Masses of snow and storms prevented an ascent over the southeast flank. Messner planned another attempt for the spring of 1983, to which Kammerlander was invited again. After a short period of acclimatization , they reached the summit on May 5th together with Michl Dacher within three days via the southwest flank. It was only the fourth successful expedition on this mountain and a partial first ascent of a west face variant.

Gasherbrum double crossing

Hidden Peak, 8080  m

In 1984, Kammerlander and Messner managed the first double crossing of Gasherbrum II ( 8034  m ) and Hidden Peak ( 8080  m ), which has not been repeated to this day (February 2019 ). From the southern part of the Gasherbrum glacier they climbed the Gasherbrum II within three days. After another two days they reached the summit of the Hidden Peak via the Gasherbrum La -joch, the west ridge and the north-west face. This was a first ascent of a variant on this side of the massif. The return to the base camp via an icefall of the Gasherbrum glacier was difficult because of the fog and took three days. In total, the climbers were on the mountain for eight days and seven nights without going down to the base camp or receiving any other support.

The expedition was accompanied by a camera team led by Werner Herzog . The film Gasherbrum - The Shining Mountain documented the expedition and its effects on the two mountaineers, but without containing pictures of the actual ascent.

Annapurna

Kammerlander and Messner climbed Annapurna ( 8091  m ) in 1985 with the first ascent of the northwest face. Despite strong winds and a sudden fall in the weather, the duo reached the summit on April 24th after five days on the wall. The descent was very quick and after only one night on the wall, the base camp was reached.

Dhaulagiri

After Kammerlander and Messner failed with an expedition on Dhaulagiri ( 8167  m ) in 1984 , they made another attempt after climbing Annapurna in 1985. Since they were already acclimatized, they were able to climb the summit within three days. This was achieved on May 15 over the normal route , "the Northeast". At the summit, the mountaineers were exposed to an Elmsfire that made the rocks glow blue and sparks from ice picks. The descent therefore had to be carried out in great haste despite the best weather.

Makalu

Makalu, 8485  m

In the winter of 1985/86, Kammerlander and Messner attempted a winter ascent of Makalu ( 8485  m ) over the normal route , but this was prevented by the strongest storms. Another expedition to Makalu was started in 1986. Two attempts had to be canceled because of enormous amounts of fresh snow before the third succeeded on September 26th. Together with Friedl Mutschlechner, they stood as a trio on the summit. After returning to Camp I, Kammerlander got on the skis he had left there and drove to the base camp. This was the start of a new variant in Kammerlanders high altitude mountaineering and the starting point for new, skiing challenges.

Lhotse

Following the ascent of Makalu in 1986, the Lhotse ( 8516  m ) was on the program. Since no more acclimatization time was needed, the ascent attempts could quickly begin and progress. On October 16, Kammerlander and Messner were “pushed” up the mountain by a storm. Despite an even stronger storm on the summit ridge, the duo continued the ascent crawling and reached the summit. This ended the “Kammerlander-Messner era”, as Messner had now climbed all 14 eight-thousanders. As a result, high-altitude mountaineering also changed for Kammerlander, because he had stood on all of his previous eight-thousanders together with Messner. On the one hand, he lost such a reliable mountain partner and, on the other hand, he now had to take care of organizing expeditions himself if he wanted to continue to be active as a high-altitude mountaineer.

In 1989, Kammerlander took part again in a Messner expedition to the impassable Lhotse south face. In addition to Kammerlander, great mountaineers like Krzysztof Wielicki and Christophe Profit were there. At an altitude of 7,200  m , Kammerlander and Profit were surprised by heavy snowfall in the tent and endangered by avalanches. When these subsided, falling rocks began, which also hit the tent of the two. They were not injured and returned to base camp in shock. Due to further snowfall, it was unlikely to climb the summit, which led to the expedition being terminated.

Nanga Parbat

In 1990, Kammerlander climbed the 8,125  m high Nanga Parbat with the Swiss Diego Wellig and skied from the summit to the base camp. They reached it on July 1st on the classic Kienshofer route . From there, Kammerlander crossed back on skis in the direction of the southern summit until he reached a 1000  m deep gully in order to ski down over it. After a few swings , it triggered an avalanche, but was not carried away. This cleared the way and the descent could continue safely without the risk of avalanches. At 6100  m, it was necessary to bivouack again after nightfall before the descent could continue. It was the first complete descent from an 8000-meter peak and over a steep face in the Himalayas.

Manaslu (attempt)

Manaslu (left), 8163  m

In the spring of 1991 Kammerlander organized a South Tyrolean expedition to Manaslu ( 8163  m ). Due to bad weather, the expedition did not go as planned. The group had already considered leaving. On the morning of the planned departure day, however, the weather was much better, so that an ascent was tried. Kammerlander started with Mutschlechner and Großrubatscher on May 10th towards the summit. Shortly after the start, however, his companions turned back. Kammerlander failed on the summit ridge in a storm and because a sudden fall in the weather was approaching. Back in Camp III he only met Friedl Mutschlechner, Großrubatscher was absent. They found him dead below the camp. The other two continued their descent and switched to skiing in Camp II. Due to the fog and snowfall, however, they could no longer make good progress and were surprised by a thunderstorm. Lightning struck in their immediate vicinity, fatally struck by Mutschlechner. The storm kept Kammerlander trapped in camp I all night, so that he could only get to base camp the next day.

Broad Peak

With a small expedition in 1994 Broad Peak ( 8051  m ) was supposed to be climbed to acclimatize for the K2 , but the permit was only given for Broad Peak. The permit for the K2 was withdrawn from Kammerlander as he had already received one for the Broad Peak. The authorities in Pakistan do not allow climbers to buy into additional expeditions for financial reasons. There was only the possibility of organizing another, separate and complete expedition.

After acclimatization, after a night of bivouac at 6200  m, the ascent with Hans Mutschlechner towards the summit began. After a night in Camp II, both set out, but at an altitude of 7,800  m Mutschlechner had to turn back due to numbness in his feet. Kammerlander climbed on alone and reached the summit. He had deposited his skis at an altitude of 7000  m and drove on them to the base camp.

Shishapangma (central peak)

In 1996 the Shishapangma ( 8027  m ) was on the program for Kammerlander . The first attempt was successful despite the stormy weather. After a night at an altitude of 7,400  m , Kammerlander reached the central summit in two hours, from where he took a pimple with a pennant. He no longer made the transition to the higher main summit. A quick descent to the high camp and a descent on skis to the base camp followed. Here the weather was already bad, a premature monsoon loomed , so that Kammerlander feared that he would not get a chance on Mount Everest as he had hoped.

Mount Everest

Mount Everest north side, 8848  m

Kammerlander and Norbert Joos and Diego Wellig made their first attempt to climb Mount Everest ( 8848  m ) back in 1989. However, this was thwarted by bad weather, a lot of fresh snow and avalanches. In 1992 the South Tyrolean made a second attempt, also with Joos. You were an independent part of a commercial expedition of the German Alpine Club . Despite again adverse weather conditions, the two climbers reached almost 8000  m , but had to end this attempt early. After the expedition to Shishapangma in 1996, Kammerlander moved to the base camp of Mount Everest. The start to the summit took place on May 23 at 5 p.m. in the advanced base camp. The smallest possible luggage should guarantee high speed. At 8 p.m. he reached the North Col. After a long break, we continued through the night to a depot at 7450  m . Here was another break and at 1:15 a.m. he continued the ascent. When the dawn broke, 8300  m had already been reached. On May 24th at 9:40 a.m., Kammerlander reached the highest mountain in the world in record time. For the subsequent descent, the snow conditions were not ideal and so he had to interrupt the journey more often to climb rock slabs and steps. Therefore, his trip to base camp was not counted as the first ski run from Everest. After about 23 hours, Kammerlander was back at base camp.

Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga, 8586  m

For 1998, Kammerlander planned to climb the remaining 3 of the 14 eight-thousanders. First the Kangchenjunga ( 8586  m ) should be climbed, then without further camp in a "non-stop ascent" of the Manaslu (because of the tragic events of 1991, Kammerlander did not want to spend more time than necessary on this mountain) and at the end of the K2. Only a small team was planned for the expedition to the "Kantsch". On May 17th, after three nights on the mountain, the summit ascent from 7600  m began . Kammerlander reached his eleventh eight-thousander in the afternoon. For joy he did a headstand there. A picture of this headstand became famous as the cover of his book Bergsüchtig . During the descent, Kammerlander discovered that his toes were frostbitten . After another night of bivouac in the flanks of the mountain, Kammerlander reached base camp on skis. All measures to save his toes were initiated here. Kammerlander was a patient in the Bruneck hospital until May 31. The frostbite eventually healed without permanent damage.

K2

K2, 8611  m

The K2 ( 8611  m ) was planned for the first time in 1994, when Kammerlander bought into an expedition of Ralf Dujmovits . But his license was withdrawn again (see section Broad Peak ). An attempt planned for 1998 could not be undertaken because of the frozen toes on Kangchenjunga. In 1999 Kammerlander went to the K2 for the first time. Konrad Auer was with him again as a partner . The weather in the run-up to the summit attempt was bad and it snowed a lot. The expedition failed on July 17th in the bottleneck , where the rope ran out 170 meters below the summit, which would have meant an unsecured ascent through the avalanche slope. The mountaineers did not want to take this risk. The fourth attempt took place again in 2000 with Konrad Auer. The conditions were optimal during the acclimatization and they reached up to 8000  m via the Cesen route . However, it was still too early to attempt a summit and so they descended to base camp. The following night the weather turned bad, which prevented a serious attempt at the summit. In 2001 Kammerlander went to the K2 for the third time. He was alone and had bought into a strange expedition. Jean-Christophe Lafaille was on this expedition . The two decided to try the summit together. On July 22nd, the third day of the ascent, Kammerlander stood on the summit of his last eight-thousander. He also tried the descent on skis from here, but this ended 150 meters below the summit in poor visibility similar to a whiteout .

Himalayas and Karakoram

In addition to the expeditions to eight-thousanders, Kammerlander was also active on the somewhat lower mountains in this region. Some of them were carried out as part of commercial trips with his Alpine School in South Tyrol .

In 1993, Kammerlander climbed the Shivling ( 6543  m ) in the source area of ​​the Ganges together with Christoph Hainz . The ascent was a first ascent of the north pillar, which has difficulties between the V and VII degrees of difficulty for the climbers. On the day of the summit, they reached their destination despite the deteriorating weather. The difficult descent succeeded unscathed despite the fog and falling night.

Ama Dablam, 6856  m

Kammerlander stood three times on the 6,856  m high Ama Dablam . He climbed the mountain for the first time in 1993 and a second time in 1995. A third time followed in 2002 as part of a program called Himalay Live , in which Kammerlander climbed to the summit with cameraman Hartmann Seeber. Martin Gremmelspacher and Westdeutsche Rundfunk worked together to produce this program on site in the base camp, including live broadcasts to Germany.

Muztagata, 7546  m

In 1999 the Alpine School South Tyrol announced an expedition to the technically easy Muztagata ( 7546  m ). Here Kammerlander wanted to acclimate himself for another attempt at K2 and test his frozen toes at high altitude. The expedition went off without any problems and in the end there was a summit success.

In 2000 another expedition was advertised, this time to the unclimbed Thang Ri ( 6240  m ) in the Pakistani Karakoram . After a few days in the base camp, fixed ropes were laid in the dangerous sections and a small depot was set up halfway to the summit. After further acclimatization, the first ascent was successful. The name Thang Ri , which the group gave the mountain, translates as "steep mountain".

At the Nuptse East ( 7804  m ) a group led by Hans Kammerlander succeeded in the first ascent of the central central pillar under the Nuptse East in 2003. Due to bad weather conditions it was only possible to climb to the end of the pillar and the expedition failed at an altitude of 6800  m .

After two unsuccessful attempts with Karl Unterkircher and Luis Brugger in 2005 and 2006, Kammerlander managed to climb Jasemba ( 7350  m ) in 2007 . In 2006 Luis Brugger fell fatally. During his attempts, Kammerlander had assumed that he would be performing a first ascent, which in retrospect turned out to be misinformation. Only after the ascent did he find out about previous visits.

Patagonia

Cerro Torre, 3133  m

After crossing the Gasherbrum, Kammerlander and Messner traveled to Patagonia for the first time . They wanted to climb the Fitz Roy ( 3406  m ) via the American route , but failed due to bad weather and insufficient equipment. Another trip to Cerro Torre ( 3133  m ) took place in 1988 with Wolfi Müller. It was the fastest ascent of this mountain to date: only 17 hours were needed for the ascent and descent on the Maestri route . In 1989, Kammerlander returned to the Fitz Roy, but failed again. However, the ascent of Aguja Poincenot ( 3002  m ) was successful .

For the collaboration in Werner Herzog's feature film Cerro Torre: Schrei aus Stein , Kammerlander was back in Patagonia in 1991. Based on the story of the controversial first ascent in 1959, the film depicts a climbing competition on Cerro Torre. Kammerlander plays a mountaineer who is reminiscent of Toni Egger , who was killed in an accident at the time .

Seven Second Summits

The last project (2009–2012) by Hans Kammerlander was the ascent of the Seven Second Summits , the second highest mountains on a continent . Due to the technically higher demands that the routes on these mountains place on mountaineers compared to those on the Seven Summits , there is less “mountaineering hype” on the second highest mountains. Kammerlander sees the task of climbing the second highest mountains as a greater challenge, which is why he decided on this project.

For the successful ascent of K2, Kammerlander needed five attempts before he could reach the summit in 2001. Kammerlander climbed the Ojos del Salado in April 2009 without any problems. At Mount Logan a huge prevented crevasse a successful summit in May of 2009. A year later, in May 2010, Kammerlander made unhindered progress on the mountain and reported a summit success. Soon afterwards it was doubted that Kammerlander had actually reached the main summit of the Logan: The summit photo he published does not match the photos and descriptions of other mountaineers in striking details. An ice ax that a rope team had left behind on an earlier ascent on the summit cannot be seen in Kammerlander's photo. Both Kammerlander and his climbing partner Konrad Auer stated that they have not seen the device. Accordingly, the German mountain chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski confirms : “[Kammerlander's] photo cannot have been taken on the summit of Mount Logan.” Kammerlander then traveled to the Logan again in May 2012 and climbed all the relevant elevations on the summit plateau with his rope partner Markus Neumair .

The ascent to the highest point of the Mount Kenya massif in October 2009 went without any difficulties. Kammerlander was able to climb the Dychtau one month after Mount Logan in June 2010.

In April 2011, Kammerlander climbed the summit of Puncak Trikora on the island of New Guinea , which, due to the lack of exact height information, is considered to be the second highest peak on the Australian continent together with the Puncak Mandala . According to the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism, the Puncak Trikora is the second highest mountain in Indonesia. Radar measurements of NASA from space suggest that the Puncak Mandala is the right candidate and Kammerlander thus may not climbed the Second Summit of Australia.

On January 3, 2012, Kammerlander and Christian Stangl reached the summit of Mount Tyree in Antarctica. As a result, it was initially reported that he was the first person to climb all of the Second Summits. Since the ascent of Mount Logan (2010) and Puncak Trikora (2011) are questioned, this did not find general recognition. In addition, the Puncak Trikora is not considered the second highest mountain on the continent.

date mountain height continent
July 22, 2001 K2 8611  m Asia
April 8, 2009 Ojos del Salado 6893  m South America
October 17, 2009 Batian 5199  m Africa
June 13, 2010 Dychtau 5204  m Europe
April 18, 2011 Puncak Trikora (1) 4750  m Australia
January 3, 2012 Mount Tyree 4852  m Antarctic
May 25, 2012 Mount Logan 5959  m North America
(1) It is (as of 2012) likely that the Puncak Trikora is not the second highest mountain on the Australian continent.

Climbing style

Hans Kammerlander tries to climb the Himalayas " by fair means ". He does without bottled oxygen and largely on fixed ropes and depots, as long as this is justifiable from a safety point of view. He considers the use of bottled oxygen to be doping . Kammerlander relies on speed on his expeditions, which can only be achieved solo or in small groups of two or three. Speed ​​on the high mountains of the Himalayas leads to more safety for the mountaineer, who stays in the death zone as short as possible . The equipment is reduced to the bare minimum in order to save weight and increase speed again. However, the basis for this type of climbing is a meticulous, competitive sport preparation.

Kammerlander considers the commercial management of guests on an eight-thousander to be unreasonable. As a mountain guide, the responsibility would be too great for him and he doesn't want to contribute to the “sell-out of the eight-thousanders”. So far he has only made one exception to this resolution when he wanted to lead mountaineers he had known for a long time to the Shishapangma. In general, however, he does not refuse commercial expeditions to high mountains as long as the customers on the mountain can (if necessary) act independently and do not use additional oxygen.

Awards

  • 2002: Official ambassador of the mountains as part of the "International Year of Mountains"
  • 2002: Rotary Prize for special achievements and merits as a personality from and for South Tyrol
  • 2005: European Ski Award from ISPO , together with its ski sponsor Fischer Sports GmbH for an innovative touring ski 
  • 2006: Naming of a square in Campo Tures after Kammerlander: Platz / Piazza Hans Kammerlander 

Publications

  • Descent to Success . Rother, Munich 1987, ISBN 3-7633-7007-2 .
  • Mountain addict . Piper, Munich 1999, ISBN 3-492-04130-2 .
  • Mountain addict - climbing and skiing in the death zone . Piper, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-492-23245-0 .
  • Mountain addict . Malik, Munich 2002, ISBN 3-89029-226-7 (special edition)
  • Above and below - mountain stories . Malik, Munich 2002, ISBN 3-89029-236-4 .
  • Descent to Success . Malik, Munich 2002, ISBN 3-89029-230-5 (special edition)
  • with Hanspaul Menara : Enjoy hiking in South Tyrol - The most beautiful adventure hikes: Recommended by the South Tyrolean hiking hotels . Bruckmann, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7654-4000-0 .
  • By a thread - K2 and other borderline experiences . Malik, Munich 2004, ISBN 3-89029-276-3 .
  • Above and below - mountain stories . Piper, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-492-24408-4 .
  • By a thread - K2 and other borderline experiences . Piper, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-492-24594-3 .
  • Mountain addict - climbing and skiing in the death zone . Piper, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-492-24730-X .
  • Whispering in the wind - Hans Kammerlander is 50 . Athesia, Bozen 2006, ISBN 88-8266-417-1 .
  • with Rainer Kurek: Direttissima to success - What (automotive) managers can learn from high-altitude mountaineering . Frankfurter Allgemeine Buch, Frankfurt 2008, ISBN 978-3-89981-158-2 .

Filmography

  • Gasherbrum - the shining mountain . 1984, directed by Werner Herzog . Documentation about Messner and Kammerlander and their double crossing of Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I.
  • Himalaya Live . 2002, production by Martin Gremmelspacher for Westdeutscher Rundfunk about the ascent of Ama Dablam .
  • The last adventure in the Himalayas . 2003, documentary about an expedition to Nuptse East .
  • Dangerous rope teams - a portrait . 2003, directed by Peter Weinert.
  • Jasemba - line to heaven . Documentary film about the expeditions to Jasemba .
  • Messner . 2012, documentary about Reinhold Messner, which contains an interview with Kammerlander and recreated scenes of Messner and Kammerlander exceeding the double 8000.
  • Manaslu - Mountain of Souls , 2018, director: Gerald Salmina , documentary about Kammerlander and his ascent of Manaslu .

literature

  • Hans Kammerlander: Descent to Success. 5th edition. Piper, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-492-23052-0 .
  • Hans Kammerlander: On a silk thread: K 2 and other borderline experiences. 4th edition. Piper, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-89029-276-3 .
  • Hans Kammerlander: Mountain addict. 6th edition. Piper, Munich 2007, ISBN 978-3-492-23245-6 .
  • Verena Duregger, Mario Vigl: Hans Kammerlander - ups and downs of my life. Autobiography in Conversations . Malik, Munich 2018, ISBN 978-3-89029-497-1 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: Mountain addict. 6th edition. Piper, Munich 2001, p. 15 ff.
  2. ↑ Süddeutsche Zeitung: "It was tough". Retrieved March 5, 2020 .
  3. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: Descent to success. 5th edition. Piper, Munich 2000, p. 90.
  4. ↑ a b Hans Kammerlander: Mountain addict. 6th edition. Piper, Munich 2001, p. 31 ff.
  5. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: Descent to Success. 5th edition. Piper, Munich 2000, p. 218 ff.
  6. ↑ a b Hans Kammerlander: Mountain addict. 6th edition. Piper, Munich 2001, p. 46 ff.
  7. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: Descent to Success. 5th edition. Piper, Munich 2000, p. 225.
  8. ↑ a b c The way - far and high. ( Memento from January 4, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) CV Hans Kammerlander (chamberlander.com)
  9. ↑ Uli Auffermann: Hans Kammerlander - Mountains in the blood. on bergnews.com, 2006, Retrieved December 16, 2008.
  10. ↑ a b Hans Kammerlander: On a silk thread. 4th edition. Piper, Munich 2005, p. 226 ff.
  11. ↑ Hans Kammerlander's private audience with the Dalai Lama. ( Memento of December 6, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) at : kammerlander.com , Retrieved December 16, 2008.
  12. ↑ Die Nepalhilfe Beilngries (nepalhilfe-beilngries.de) Retrieved on September 3, 2015.
  13. ↑ Polarstern Ambassador Hans Kammerlander (polarstern-energie.de) Retrieved on January 27, 2012.
  14. ↑ a b c Dirk von Nayhauß: extremely honest: Hans Kammerlander. In: Alpine. No. 2, 2008, p. 44.
  15. ↑ CV onkammerlander.com
  16. ↑ Kammerlander faces several years imprisonment. on alpin.de, accessed July 17, 2014.
  17. ↑ Kammerlander: "Guilt to which one must stand" ( Memento from July 28, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) on stol.it - ​​news from South Tyrol from December 6, 2013.
  18. ^ Alpinist Hans Kammerlander seriously injured in a car accident , Tiroler Tageszeitung Online, November 27, 2013.
  19. ^ Accident: Hans Kammerlander seriously injured. In: merkur.de. Retrieved January 24, 2019 .
  20. ↑ Guilt dragged onto Manaslu. Retrieved January 24, 2019 .
  21. ↑ The Kammerlander judgment. on Tageszeitung.it - ​​The new South Tyrolean daily newspaper from February 5, 2015.
  22. ↑ Now Kammerlander is talking. on Tageszeitung.it, April 7, 2016.
  23. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: Descent to Success. 5th edition. Piper, Munich 2000, p. 176 ff.
  24. ↑ Reinhold Messner: All about South Tyrol . Piper, Munich 1993.
  25. ↑ Andrea Wengel: The Ötzi - An archaeological criminal case. ( Memento from February 9, 2009 in the Internet Archive ) on planet-wissen.de, 2006, accessed on December 16, 2008.
  26. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: On a silk thread. 4th edition. Piper, Munich 2005, p. 307.
  27. ↑ Manaslu Expedition 2017: Back to the Mount of Fate once more, chamberlander.com
  28. ↑ Aus am Manaslu - Kammerlander ends expeditionkammerlander.com , November 12, 2017.
  29. ↑ See "Routes statistics" Cho Oyu 8000ers.com (English), accessed December 16, 2008.
  30. ↑ See "Routes statistics" Gasherbrum I 8000ers.com (English), accessed December 16, 2008.
  31. ↑ Reinhold Messner: GI and G II. Challenge Gasherbrum . BLV, Munich 1998, p. 172 ff.
  32. ↑ See "Routes Statistics" Annapurna 8000ers.com (English), accessed January 19, 2009.
  33. ^ Marc Batard back for speed record attempt on north side (mounteverest.net). ( Memento of March 16, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) Retrieved January 20, 2009. (English)
  34. ↑ Martin Gremmelspacher: ( Page no longer available , search in web archives: Live from the Himalayas ) (PDF; 309 kB). ask-tv.de, 2003, accessed on December 16, 2008.@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.ask-tv.de
  35. ↑ Dirk von Nayhauß: extremely honest: Hans Kammerlander. In: Alpine. No. 2, 2008, p. 42.
  36. ↑ Current (Version from May 30, 2010). In: Official website. Hans Kammerlander, archived from the original on May 30, 2010 ; accessed on April 10, 2012 : "Hans Kammerlander has achieved another goal of his SECOND SEVEN SUMMITS project and conquered Mount Logan 5959mt."
  37. ↑ a b Andreas Lesti: Hans Kammerlander's sharp ridge. In: FAZ.NET . April 3, 2012, Retrieved April 4, 2012 .
  38. ↑ Website of Hans Kammerlander, section Mount Logan / Alaska - press report daily newspaper "Dolomiten". Archived from the original on May 30, 2010 ; Retrieved April 28, 2014 .
  39. ↑ Valentina d'Angella: Kammerlander fa il to sul Mount Logan, questa volta è cima vera. May 28, 2012, Retrieved May 29, 2012 (Italian).
  40. ↑ a b c Andreas Lesti: On the wrong summit. In: Spiegel Online . April 13, 2012, Retrieved April 16, 2012 .
  41. ↑ Hans Kammerlander successful: first person on all Second Seven Summits . bergleben.de, 2012, accessed on January 5, 2012.
  42. ↑ Hans Kammerlander and Fischer extend their collaboration , ski2b.com, accessed on December 16, 2008.
  43. ↑ Kammerlander celebrated its 50th birthday , alpin.de, accessed on December 16, 2008.
  44. ↑ manaslu-film.com
  45. ↑ imdb.com
personal data
SURNAME Kammerlander, Hans
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian mountaineer (South Tyrol)
DATE OF BIRTH December 6, 1956
PLACE OF BIRTH Sand in Taufers (Ahornach), Italy