Makalu
| Makalu | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Makalu seen from the southwest (right the Chamlang ) |
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| height | 8485 m | |
| location | District Sankhuwasabha ( Nepal ), Tibet ( China ) |
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| Mountains | Mahalangur Himal ( Himalaya ) | |
| Dominance | 17.21 km → Lhotse | |
| Notch height | 2378 m ↓ ( 6107 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 27 ° 53 '22 " N , 87 ° 5' 19" E | |
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| First ascent | May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy | |
| Normal way | glaciated alpine tour | |
 The Makalu from the west |
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 Makalu (left) and Mt. Everest (right), taken from the ISS |
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The Makalu ( Nepali मकालु Makālu , in China officially Makaru Shan , Chinese 马卡鲁 山 , Pinyin Mǎkǎlǔ Shān ) is the fifth highest mountain in the world with a height of 8485 m .
It is located east of Mount Everest on the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region in the Mahalangur Himal . Its Nepalese side is part of the Makalu-Barun National Park . The first ascent was achieved in 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy as the first rope team on a French expedition of nine .
Ascent history
In 1954, an American expedition first attempted to climb Makalu. The highest camp (V) was built on the southeast ridge at 7000 m. On June 2nd, William Long and Willi Unsoeld reached the maximum height of this expedition of about 7070 meters before they had to descend due to heavy snowfall.
The first ascent was made by a nine-man French expedition led by Jean Franco , during which - for the first time on an eight-thousander - all expedition participants managed to reach the summit. The only climbers counted as first climbers are Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, who reached the highest point on May 15, 1955. A day later, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone and the Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu stood on the summit, which was also reached on the 17th by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte. The route led from the north via Makalu La and the northwest ridge to the summit and is now known as the “French route”.
In 1970 a Japanese expedition attempted the difficult southeast ridge route. Hajime Tanaka and Yuichi Ozaki reached the summit on May 23, completing the first ascent of the southeast ridge. In the ascent, they had also climbed the Makalu southeast (7860 m) for the first time.
In 1975 Marjan Manfreda climbed the Makalu for the first time without additional oxygen.
For many years, the Makalu was the only eight-thousander in Nepal that was not climbed in winter. Many well-known mountaineers such as Renato Casarotto , Jean-Christophe Lafaille , who has been missing since his attempt in winter 2005/2006, and Nives Meroi failed. Only on February 9, 2009, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko were the first to reach the highest point of Makalu in winter.
Makalu summit
| summit | Summit height | Prominence | Coordinates |
| Makalu | 8485 m | 2378 m | 27 ° 53 '22 " N , 87 ° 5' 19" E |
| Makalu Southeast Summit | 7860 m | 140 m | 27 ° 52 '44.8 " N , 87 ° 5' 49.8" E |
| Kangchungtse (Makalu II) | 7678 m | 251 m | 27 ° 54 ′ 54 " N , 87 ° 4 ′ 43" E |
The Chomo Lönzo ( 7818 m ) is also part of the Makalu massif. It is located about four kilometers north-northeast of the main summit and is separated from it by a saddle about 7200 m high. With a notch height of 590 m, it is considered a mountain in its own right.
literature
- W. Dunmire and W. Unsoeld: Makalu 1954 - California Himalayan Expedition . in American Alpine Journal 1955
- Jean Franco: Makalu. The conquest of the 8,470 meter high Himalayan giant . Orell Füssli Verlag, Zurich 1956
- Hermann and Dietlinde Warth: Makalu. Expedition into the silence . EOS Verlag, St. Ottilien 1979
- Frank Gräfe: Crossing the border at Makalu. Memories of a trip to the Himalayas . DJM publishing house, Dresden 2000
Web links
- Makalu on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Makalu at Peakware (English)
- Makalu at summitpost.org
- The acquisition story on bergfieber.de (private website)
- Makalu at himalaya-info.org
Individual evidence
- ↑ Guójiā cèhuìjú dìmíng yánjiūsuǒ 国家 测绘 局 地名 研究所 (ed.): Zhōngguó dìmínglù - Zhōnghuá Rénmín Gònghéguó dìtújí dìmíng suǒyǐn «中国 地 索引» 名录 中华人民共和国地图 地图地 名录 »中华人民共和国地图 地图 . Beijing: Zhōngguó dìtú chūbǎnshè 中国 地图 出版社, 1997, ISBN 7-5031-1718-4 , pp. 146, 307.
- ↑ Julia Pröll: Simone Moro climbs Makalu in winter , alpin.de , accessed on February 13, 2009
- ↑ Chomo Lönzo on Peakbagger.com (English)