Jean Couzy

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Jean Couzy (born July 9, 1923 in Nérac ; † November 2, 1958 in the Dévoluy massif ) was a French mountaineer.

Life

The west side of Makalu: The route of the first climbers led from Makalu La over the NW ridge (left in the picture) to the summit, it is today's normal route ("French route").

Jean Couzy grew up in the south of France and often visited the Pyrenees as a teenager . After World War II he started climbing and mountaineering in the Alps . At that time, Marcel Schatz became one of his most important partners. This was followed by repetitions of important routes and some first ascents in the Alps and Pyrenees.

In 1950 Couzy was one of the participants in the first successful eight-thousander expedition. The first ascent of Annapurna (8091 m) was completed by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal , who only survived the descent thanks to the help of their comrades.

From 1954 onwards, Couzy undertook regular tours with René Desmaison in the Alps , and some of the first winter ascents (e.g. Dru West Face 1957) attracted particular attention.

His most important alpine success was in 1955, together with Lionel Terray, the first ascent of Makalu , the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,485 meters.

On November 2, 1958, Jean Couzy died in a rock fall accident in the Dévoluy massif in the French Alps.

Alpinistic services (extract)

  • Pic des Crabioules , 3116 m (Pyrenees), 1948 first direct ascent of the north-west face
  • Annapurna , 8091 m (Himalaya, Nepal), 1950 participant in the French expedition for the first ascent
  • Chomo Lönzo , 7804 m (Himalaya, Tibet), 1954 first ascent together with Lionel Terray
  • Makalu , 8485 m (Himalaya, Nepal / Tibet), 1955 first ascent together with Lionel Terray
  • Olan , 3564 m (Alps, Ecrins), 1956 first ascent of the north-west face with René Desmaison
  • Aiguille du Dru , 3754 m (Alps, Mont Blanc), 1957 first winter ascent of the west face with René Desmaison

literature

  • Maurice Herzog: Annapurna. First eight-thousander . Ullstein, Vienna 1955.
  • René Desmaison: Mountains, my passion , Müller Rüschlikon Verlag 1973, ISBN 3-275-00511-1 .
  • Richard Sale, Eberhard Jurgalski, George Rodway: Challenge 8000ers: The highest mountains in the world in the 21st century Tyrolia, Innsbruck / Vienna 2013. ISBN 978-3-7022-3294-8 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski (8000ers.com): Almanac , accessed on July 9, 2014.
  2. ↑ American Alpine Journal (1951): Climbs And Expeditions - Nepal, Ascent of Annapurna , in AAJ 1951, p. 197 f.
  3. ↑ American Alpine Journal (1956): Climbs And Expeditions - Nepal, Makalu , in AAJ 1956, p. 139
  4. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: High Asia - All mountains and main peaks above 6750 m , download as PDF from www.8000ers.com, approx. 154 kB, accessed on December 20, 2014
personal data
SURNAME Couzy, Jean
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French climber
DATE OF BIRTH July 9, 1923
PLACE OF BIRTH Nérac
DATE OF DEATH November 2, 1958
Place of death Dévoluy massif