Toni Hiebeler
Anton ("Toni") Wolfgang Hiebeler (born March 5, 1930 in Schwarzach , Vorarlberg ; † November 2, 1984 near Jesenice , Slovenia ) was an Austrian mountaineer, publicist of several alpine books, magazine editor and alpine photographer.
Life
On 28 and 29 July 1949 Toni Hiebeler managed together with Franz Bachmann the first ascent in difficulty VI of direct southwestern wall at the Sulzfluh in Rätikon . In 1951, together with U. Wyß or F. Filgertshofer, he achieved five first ascents of difficulty IV and V on the Pflunspitze in the Verwall group . He allegedly climbed the north face of the Eiger in winter for the first time in 1961 and was the first to climb the north face of the Civetta in 1963. In total, he made more than 50 first ascents.
During his first winter ascent of the north face of the Eiger, however, it quickly became apparent that his rope team had initially only come as far as a tunnel hole on the Jungfrau Railway and the ascent was interrupted there. Only a week later did they continue the tour from the tunnel, so that there was no first winter ascent.
Toni Hiebeler died in a helicopter crash and was buried in the Westfriedhof in Munich .
Honors
- 1979: Gold Medal of Merit of the Republic of Austria
- 1983: Cross of Merit on Ribbon of the Federal Republic of Germany
Alpinistic services (extract)
- Lyskamm west summit, first ascent of the direct north face, 1961
- Civettan Northwest Face, first winter ascent, 1963
- Eiger north pillar, first ascent, 1968
- Pik Lenin (Pamir), first ascent of the 2000 m high east face in nine days, 1969
- Mount Everest, participant in an international expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth , 1971
Works (selection)
- The Alps in the air. Rosenheim 1990, ISBN 3-475-52649-2 .
- Where I found the Alps most beautiful. Rosenheim 1984; ISBN 3-475-52442-2 .
- Alps - Lexicon. Mosaik-Verlag, Munich 1983, ISBN 3-570-06943-5 .
- The most beautiful hiking routes in the Alps. Mosaik Verlag, Munich 1980, ISBN 3-570-00805-3 .
- Zugspitze. From the first ascent until today. Mosaik Verlag, Munich 1979, ISBN 3-570-00651-4 .
- Eigerwand. From the first ascent until today. Munich 1978, ISBN 3-442-11163-3 .
- Matterhorn. From the first ascent until today. Bertelsmann Lexikon-Verlag, Gütersloh, Berlin 1976, ISBN 3-570-01677-3 .
- SOS on rock and ice. Adventure and adventurers on the mountain, triumphs and tragedies. Loewes Verlag Ferdinand Carl, Bayreuth 1973, ISBN 3-7855-1663-0 .
Web links
- Literature by and about Toni Hiebeler in the catalog of the German National Library
- Personal folder for Toni Hiebeler (I) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
- Personal folder for Toni Hiebeler (II) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
- Personal folder for Toni Hiebeler (III) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
- Personal folder for Toni Hiebeler (IV) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
- Personal folder for Toni Hiebeler (V) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Pause, Walter and Jürgen Winkler: In extreme rock. Munich 1970, p. 74.
- ↑ Eiger north face: Dirty laurel. In: Der Spiegel . No. 18, April 26, 1961.
- ^ Norman G. Dyhrenfurth: Everest Revisited The International Himalayan Expedition, 1971. In: The Himalayan Journal. Vol. 31, 1971.
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Hiebeler, Toni |
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES | Hiebeler, Anton Wolfgang |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian photographer, mountaineer, publicist |
| DATE OF BIRTH | March 5, 1930 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Schwarzach , Austria |
| DATE OF DEATH | 2nd November 1984 |
| Place of death | Jesenice , Slovenia |