Franz Bachmann

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Franz Bachmann, developer of clamping knots in October 2005 in the family home in Tschagguns in Vorarlberg

Franz Bachmann (born March 31, 1930 in Toblach in Pustertal , South Tyrol ; † July 24, 2019 in Riehen ) was an Austrian alpinist , mountain rescuer , engineer for mechanical engineering and process technology and developer of several clamping nodes .

Life

Franz Bachmann's father was a saddler and upholsterer in Cortina d'Ampezzo . There the ten-year-old boy had already climbed the Tofana di Roces, the Nuvolau and the Croda del Becco. The family moved to Feldkirch in Vorarlberg as a result of the Hitler-Mussolini Agreement on South Tyrol . From 1946, at the age of 16, he climbed the mountains of the Rätikon , including the Zimba West Ridge and Saulakamin in the east face of the Saulakopf , both III + . As early as 1949, together with Toni Hiebeler, he made the first ascent of the Direct Southwest Face (VI) on the Sulzfluh in the Rätikon. Another 17 first ascents up to VI + and VII- followed, some even on their own. Of these tours, the direct west face on the Kleine Sulzfluh VII-, Gelbeck east face VI +, and Gams Freiheit Nordpfeiler V.

Developer of clamping knots

To secure his solo trips in extreme rock, he developed the carabiner knot by 1949. During his time as the technical director of the mountain rescue service in Vorarlberg , the karabiner clamp knot followed as a further development , in the English-speaking area "Bachmann Knot" and in Italian "Nodo Bachmann". In the years after the turn of the century, the FB ring knot and the FB knot were added as completely new types of clamping knots. From this, Bachmann soon developed the FB tape clamping knot . FB-Prusik was presented as a new idea in October 2015 . In the spring of 2017, the newest and last link (Franz Bachmann's statement: "You can't leave anything out here!") Was added to a consistent development of the FB-Kreuzklemm .

Quote

“Maybe there is one thing you have to be clear about: alpinism is not an ideal world. People are everywhere. That has always been the case and will continue to be so in the future. "

- (Franz Bachmann, 2009, alpine pioneer in Montafon, Gauertaler AlpkulTour - Golm)

Publications by and about Franz Bachmann

  • The carabiner knot. In: Fels und Firn, June issue 1950
  • The carabiner knot. In: Berge und Heimat, No. 3, 1951 ( OeAV )
  • The carabiner knot. In: Der Bergsteiger, No. 6, 1951 ( DAV )
  • The carabiner knot. In: Die Alpen, No. 6, 1951 ( SAC ) as a supplement
  • Franz Bachmann: The FB clamping knot. In: German Alpine Club, Austrian Alpine Club and Swiss Alpine Club SAC (ed.): Bergundsteiger . No. 3, 2005, pp. 56–60 ( PDF, 200 kB , accessed on February 16, 2008)
  • Walter Würtl: FB-Prusik. In: Bergundstieg, No. 92, autumn 2015, pp. 76–77.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ The family's obituary from the end of July 2019
  2. ↑ gmesblättli Tschagguns , September 2019, p. 38, https://www.tschagguns.at/sites/default/files/Dokumente/Gmesblaettli/2019/gmesblaettli%20september%202019%20web.pdf , accessed on November 6, 2019
  3. ^ Walter Pause and Jürgen Winkler, Im extremen Fels, BLV Verlagsgesellschaft Munich 1970, ISBN 3-405-10825-X , pp. 74–75
  4. ↑ FH: One of the last alpine salvages from the time of "classic" alpinism in the Gauertal. (1957) ( Memento of the original from March 5, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Gauertal , Gmesblättli Tschagguns June 2014 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.tschagguns.at
  5. ↑ Walter Würtl, "FB-Prusik" in bergundsteigen # 92 / herbst2015, pp 76-77
personal data
SURNAME Bachmann, Franz
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian mountaineer and developer of clamping knots
DATE OF BIRTH March 31, 1930
PLACE OF BIRTH Toblach
DATE OF DEATH July 24, 2019
Place of death Riehen