Carabiner clamp knot
| Carabiner clamp knot | |
|---|---|
|
|
| Type | Clamping knot |
| application | Climbing aid |
| Ashley No. | |
| Synonyms | Bachmann knot |
| English | Bachmann knot |
| List of nodes | |
The karabiner clamping knot is a clamping knot that serves as a climbing aid in makeshift mountain rescue.
Names and history
The snap knot was invented by Franz Bachmann , which is why it is also called Bachmann's knot.
application
The carabiner clamp knot holds with both cord and sling .
When used as a climbing aid, two climbing loops (accessory cord as a 1.5 m long endless loop) are tied to the rope with a snap hook each. By loading one loop with a foot, one knot is fixed and the other loop is relieved. The knot can then be pushed up one step to put additional weight on the loop. To stabilize it against swinging, the climbing slings are guided through a carabiner on the climbing harness at hip height.
The carabiner clamp knot is also suitable for attaching pulleys to the rope, for example when building a pulley system or when recovering crevices .
The carabiner can also be gripped easily with gloves. It should be noted that the carabiner on the "rope-free" side must not be used as access because it loosens the clamping knot and eliminates friction. A grab handle is only allowed on the rope-wrapped carabiner side.
The “loosening pull” on the carabiner is deliberately used, for example, on the “Bachmann lift” (extended self-rope pulley ). By using a “pull cord” (auxiliary pull cord) on the carabiner, this is done from the ground for the controlled lowering of a load in the tree climbing technique . The carabiner clamp knot loosens as long as the carabiner is pulled. By relieving the pull cord, the carabiner clamp knot tightens again and brakes the load to a standstill. As a result, the Bachmann lift works safely but jerkily.
Knot
1st variant: A climbing sling is hooked into a screw carabiner. It is passed several times around the rope and through the carabiner.
2nd variant: The end of the climbing sling is passed several times around the rope and through the carabiner and finally the eye is hooked into the carabiner.
The higher the number of wraps, the higher the clamping effect.
Climbing loop in carabiner
around rope and carabiner
finished
with tape sling
Short Bachmann knot with load on the 2nd carabiner
Alternatives
- The Prusik sling is used without a carabiner .
- The Stopperstek is used with a rope strand in seafaring .
- The FB-Kreuzklemm , the FB-Prusik and the FB-Bandklemmknoten are used with a tape sling .
- The cross clamp knot is rarely used.
- If the carabiner is to serve as a handle, a "blocker" must be wrapped around the rope with an accessory cord. The carabiner is only carried out on the first and last eye. (See picture on the right)
literature
- Franz Bachmann: The FB clamping knot . In: German Alpine Club , Austrian Alpine Club and Swiss Alpine Club SAC (ed.): Bergundstieg . No. 3 , 2005, p. 56–60 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; 200 kB ; accessed on February 16, 2008]).
Individual evidence
- ↑ Hanseatic Knot. Archived from the original on December 28, 2013 ; Retrieved February 19, 2016 .
- ↑ Self-rope pulley. Archived from the original on October 26, 2011 ; Retrieved February 19, 2016 .
- ↑ Autoblock
