FB-Prusik
| FB-Prusik | |
|---|---|
|
|
| Type | Clamping knot |
| application | Climbing on the rope, abseiling, mountain rescue |
| Ashley No. | |
| English | FB-Prusik |
| List of nodes | |
The FB-Prusik is a clamping knot for the use of tape loops, which tightens under load and loosens again when relieved. It was developed from the well-known Prusik knot by Franz Bachmann (hence FB -Prusik) and presented for the first time in 2015.
Difference to the Prusik knot
With the FB-Prusik, a special feature of the tape loops is used in such a way that there is a functional advantage over the knotted accessory cord loops. Where the tape loop is sewn together to form a ring, there is a doubling that can be used as an improving element, similar to the FB tape clamping knot .
Knotting the FB-Prusik
The Prusik knot is tied as shown in the picture, including the doubling. This gives the knot more "body" and consequently has a better grip and does not pinch the loop as strongly where it emerges from the knot. The latter in turn has the effect that the tension of the load spans the rope more directly, thus increasing the clamping effect of the knot.
When loaded, the knot assumes the shape as shown in the picture on the right and jams. After relieving the pressure, the knot loosens partially by itself thanks to the expansion in the doubling and is thus easier to move.
application
The FB-Prusik is used by mountaineers, cave explorers, scouts and arborists like the Prusik knot (see there) to climb the rope, as a safety device when abseiling , in mountain rescue for building pulleys and for self-rescue from a crevasse for the Münchhausentechnik . There are also numerous application possibilities in the household as well as in the home and garden.
Adhesive effect
In tests on the tractor, the FB-Prusik achieved the second highest values of comparable clamping knots behind the FB-tape clamping knot. As with the Prusik knot, the adhesive effect depends on the rope diameter and the width of the sling as well as on the material and surface properties of both. Narrow belt loops result in a higher clamping effect and thus a higher adhesive effect. With an additional winding, the adhesive effect can easily be increased with smooth and thin ropes. See pictures on the right.
Alternatives
- FB cross clamp
- FB tape clamping knot
- Carabiner clamp knot (Bachmann)
- Cross clamp knot (Klemheist)
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Walter Würtl: FB Prusik. In: Bergundstieg No. 92, autumn 2015, pp. 76–77