Civetta
| Civetta | |
|---|---|
 The Civetta from Piz Boe seen from |
|
| height | 3220 m slm |
| location | Belluno Province , Italy |
| Mountains | Alps ( Dolomites ) |
| Dominance | 15.6 km → Punta Rocca |
| Notch height | 1447 m ↓ congestion pass |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 22 '41 " N , 12 ° 2' 38" E |
 |
|
| First ascent | around 1860 by Simeone De Silvestro |
| Normal way | Climbing tour Tivanweg |
 |
|
The Civetta ( Italian for owl) is a mountain in the Dolomites .
It is located east of the Val Cordevole , south of the Val Fiorentina and west of the Val di Zoldo . The 3220 m high mountain together with some smaller peaks forms the Civetta-Moiazza group. This 6 km long group forms a high rock wall that drops over 1000 m to the west. It forms the following peaks (from north to south): Monte Coldai (2396 m), Torre Coldai (2600 m), Torre d'Alleghe (2649 m), Torre di Valgrande (2715 m), Punta Civetta (2892 m), Monte Civetta (3220 m), Piccola Civetta (3207 m), Cime di Mede (2504 m), Torre Venezia (2337 m), Cima delle Busazze (2894 m) and Monte Moiazetta (2727 m).
The peak itself was first climbed in the 1860s by the hunter Simeone De Silvestro . His route, now the normal route ( Tivanweg ), leads from Val di Zoldo over the SE flank of the mountain. Another ascent is the partially secured Via ferrata degli Alleghesi , which leads over the eastern pillar of Punta Civetta and the northern ridge of the main Civetta summit. There are always walking distances to be conquered here. The Via ferrata Attilio Tissi (this is very prone to falling rocks) and the Via ferrata Costantini (Moiazza) are among the most demanding via ferrata in the Dolomites.
Northwest wall
The north-west face of the Civetta was the focus of mountaineering interest in the 1920s. Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer were then able to climb the over 1000 meter high wall for the first time on August 7, 1925. It is considered to be one of the most difficult climbs of its time and was classified as 6th grade .
Mountain huts in the Civetta group:
- Rif. Coldài (2132 m; CAI ) - in the north
- Rif. Tissi (2262 m; CAI) - in a panoramic position at the foot of the Civetta west face
- Rif. Vazzoler (1714 m; CAI) - base in the south for popular climbing tours (Torre Trieste, Torre Venezia)
- Rif. Carestiato (1834 m; CAI) - at the foot of the Moiazza, in the southeast
- Rif. Torrani (2984 m; CAI) - directly below the main summit
An impressive mountain hike leads from Val Zoldana ( Forcella Staulanza or Palafavera) to the Coldaihütte, from there past the Coldai lake to the Tissihütte and the Rif. Vazzoler; over the Rif. Carestiato you reach the Passo Duran . This path is also one of the most beautiful sections of the Dolomites high path 1.
The most important valley location is Alleghe on the reservoir of the same name in the Cordevoletal.
literature
- Eugen Hüsler: Hüsler's via ferrata guide Dolomites. Bruckmann-Verlag, Munich
- Via ferrata guide Dolomites - South Tyrol - Gardasee Alpinverlag, Bad Häring / Tyrol
See also
The ship with which Josef Ressel tested his propeller in 1829 was also called the Civetta.
