Marmolada
| Marmolada / Marmolada / Marmoleda | |
|---|---|
 The Marmolada from Sass Pordoi seen from |
|
| height | 3343 m slm |
| location | Trentino and Province of Belluno ( Italy ) |
| Mountains | Marmolata group , Dolomites |
| Dominance | 55.3 km → Snowy Nock |
| Notch height | 2134 m ↓ Toblacher Feld |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 26 '4 " N , 11 ° 51' 5" E |
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|
| First ascent | 1864 by Paul Grohmann |
| Normal way | glaciated high-altitude tour (north ascent from Passo Fedaia ), routes from the west and south climbing |
| particularities | highest peak in the Dolomites |
The Marmolada ( Italian Marmolada , Ladino Marmoleda , the name is derived from the resemblance of the rock with marble) is the highest mountain in the Dolomites and part of Marmolatagruppe . The Marmolada is a ridge running to the west-east, which runs from the Punta Penia ( 3343 m slm ) via the Punta Rocca ( 3309 m slm ) and the Punta Ombretta ( 3230 m slm ) to the Pizzo Serauta ( 3035 m slm ) and the Punta Serauta ( 3069 m ) m slm ). This ridge breaks off to the south in a closed, two-kilometer-wide and up to 800-meter-high cliff into the Ombrettatal. The comparatively gently sloping flank on the north side of the Passo Fedaia carries the only larger glacier in the Dolomites ( Ghiacciaio della Marmolada ).
On the history of the Marmolada
The legend of the Marmolata glacier
A South Tyrolean legend explains ( etiologically ) the origin of the Marmolada glacier as follows: Originally there was no ice and snow on the Marmolada, but rather fertile alpine pastures and meadows. Before a Marian holiday in August, the farmers interrupted the hay harvest as usual and went into the valley to go to church. But two of them were indifferent to the rest of the holiday, they worked through the whole holiday to get their hay dry into the haystacks. In fact, it started to snow right away. But it kept snowing and never stopped until finally the whole of the Marmolada was covered by a glacier. Another version tells of a godless countess who forced the farmers to work hay. While the farmers were able to save themselves, the countess and her servants were buried by the masses of snow.
The history of the ascent until 1914
On August 3, 1802, three priests (Don Giovanni Costadedòi, Don Giuseppe Terza, Don Tommaso Pezzei), a surgeon (Hauser) and an episcopal judge (Peristi) reached the ridge at the Punta di Rocca from the Passo Fedaia. On the descent, the group probably lost Don Giuseppe Terza by falling into a crevasse. It is an accident that nourished superstition, which may have contributed to the fact that it was not attempted again until 50 years later. This time there were three priests from the Agordo area (Don Pietro Munga, Don Alessio Marmolada, Don Lorenzo Nikolai) and the 17-year-old aristocrat Gian Antonio De Manzoni. The group's leader is the experienced mountain guide Pellegrino Pellegrini, who takes the chamois hunter Gasparo de Pian with him. This group of six climbed from Passo Fedaia on August 25, 1856, equipped with simple crampons, over the glacier to the ridge and described themselves as the first to climb, although their report did not contain any evidence that the Punta di Rocca was actually climbed.
In 1860 John Ball (with the guide Victor Tairraz and John Birkbeck) also called himself the first to climb the Marmolada, but this was refuted.
In fact, it wasn't until July 1862 that the Viennese mountaineer and founding member of the Austrian Alpine Club Paul Grohmann climbed the Punta Rocca on the north route. He did not find any climbing tracks either on the short, difficult summit ridge or on the summit. The 35 meters higher Punta Penia is climbed on September 28, 1864 by Paul Grohmann together with the two mountain guides Angelo and Fulgenzio Dimai. In the 1880s mountaineering in the Dolomites took off, which led to the construction of refuges at the Fedaiasattel (Alpine Club section Bamberg) and at the Ombrettapass (Contrinhaus of the Alpine Club section Nuremberg). The Nuremberg Section also tried to find a relatively easy path to the Punta Penia and financed the insurance of the western ridge, which was first climbed by Hans Seyffert, Eugen Dittmann with guide Luigi Rizzi on July 21, 1898. The very popular, exposed via ferrata was opened on August 5, 1903.
The mountain guides Cesare Tomè, Santo De Toni and their companion Luigi Farenza found the first route through the south face (difficulty level II) on August 21, 1897 with the help of a gorge. However, they reached the ridge two kilometers east of the main summit. The first south wall route to Punta Penia, now known as “Via Classica” (IV), was opened on June 1, 1901 by mountain guides Michele Bettega, Bortolo Zagonel and the British Beatrice Tomasson .
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The Marmolada and the First World War
During the First World War, the Marmolada was a border mountain between Austria-Hungary and Italy. The Austrian positions ran from Passo Fedaia via Sasso Undici to Forcella Serauta and further along the ridge to the west. The Italian positions were to the east or south of it. The Italians tried to advance along the ridge in the direction of Punta Rocca, but they did not succeed even with the use of explosive tunnels. In order to ensure the supplies to the positions on the ridge, the Austrians dug or blasted tunnels in the glacier, which in addition to supply also served as accommodation, which led to the establishment of a veritable “ice city”. The greatest avalanche disaster in Alpine history is linked to this fighting. On December 13, 1916, a wet snow avalanche buried the Austrian reserve camp Gran Poz located west of the Fedaiapass, killing around 300 soldiers (→ avalanche disaster of December 13, 1916 ).
The development from 1918
After the war, Luigi Micheluzzi , Roberto Perathoner and Demetrio Christomannos wrote alpine history from September 8 to 9, 1929 , climbing the southern pillar of Punta Penia (VI). They only had one hemp rope with them and hit seven hooks. There were, however, doubts about the correct ascent. In any case, some follow-up climbers ( Fritz Kasparek , Hans Steger ) described this path as the most difficult of their climbing careers; before the Second World War it was only climbed seven times. With the south-west face of Punta Penia (VI +) through Gino Soldà and Umberto Conforto and above all with the south face of Punta di Rocca (VI +), also climbed by Batista Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni in 1936, excellent routes were added before the Second World War . For a long time the Vinatzer tour had the reputation of being the most difficult tour in the Dolomites. After the war, Armando Aste , Toni Egger , Claudio Barbier , Walter Philipp and Georges Livanos put themselves on the list of first-time climbers. In the 1980s it should be shown that the development, which had already been completed, received new impulses from the free climbing movement. A new generation conquered the silver plates , with Heinz Mariacher in particular doing pioneering work. The path through the fish (IX-), which Czech mountaineers first climbed, also became known.
Tourism today
The most demanding part of the so-called Dolomite High Trail No. 2 runs across the west side of the glacier . A via ferrata leads from the Contrinhaus on the south side via the Marmolatascharte and Westgrat (hence the name Westgrat via ferrata ) to Punta Penia . The moderately difficult 'Westgrat Klettersteig' requires glacier equipment. A very impressive mountain tour leads at the foot of the Marmolada south face from Malga Ciapela over the Passo Ombretta and the Contrinhaus to Alba near Canazei .
A cable car also leads to the Marmolada; the system, which was renovated in 2004 and 2005, leads in three sections from Malga Ciapela ( 1467 m slm ) via the stations Banc / Coston d'Antermoia (2350 m) and Serauta (2950 m) to Punta Rocca (3265 m). The Mountain War Museum, which is integrated into the Serauta cable car station, at 2950 m above sea level, is probably the highest museum in Europe. The small rock sanctuary Madonna della Neve , which Pope John Paul II personally consecrated during a visit, can easily be reached from the Punta Rocca mountain station through a tunnel .
One of the longest ski runs in the Alps, the Bellunese , leads from the Punta Rocca over the Passo Fedaia to Malga Ciapela with an altitude difference of almost 1900 m and a length of approx. 12 km .
Until about 2000 there was also summer skiing on the Marmolada glacier with a few tow lifts; this offer was thereafter less frequently and then completely canceled in 2005 due to pressure from environmental protection associations. In addition, there was another chain of lifts from the top of the Fedaiapass to Punta Serauta until 2008, but then the drag lift was first shut down in 2008, and in 2012 the valley station of the chairlift on the top of the pass was destroyed by fire and has not been rebuilt since then. The resulting greatly reduced capacity and the large crowd lead to regular waiting times of an hour or more at the valley station of the now only cable car to the Marmolada in Malga Ciapela.
Mountain huts in the Marmolada area:
- Rifugio Contrin (2016 m, ANA, traditional house southwest of the Marmolada south face )
- Rifugio Falier (2074 m, CAI , at the foot of the Marmolada south face in Val Ombretta)
- Bivacco Marco Dal Bianco (2727 m, bivouac box at Passo Ombretta)
- Capanna Punta Penia (3340 m, private, small refuge close to the summit)
Cable car to the Marmolada
Mountain chapel on the Marmolada
North-west slope with gorge
Glacier tunnels in the ice city
The Marmolada in art
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literature
- Legends, fairy tales and tales from South Tyrol , Volume 1: Wipptal, Pustertal, Gadertal, collected by Willi Mai , edited with notes and comments by Leander Petzoldt on behalf of the Society for Tyrolean Folk Culture, Tyrolia-Verlag Innsbruck, Vienna 2000 ISBN 3-7022- 2227-8
- Helmut Dumler: Marmolada , Salzburg 1972
- Heinz Mariacher:: Alpine Club Guide Dolomites Marmolada-Hauptkamm . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1983, ISBN 3-7633-1305-2 .
- Michael Wachtler, Andrea De Bernardin: The city in the ice on the Marmolada. The First World War inside the glacier , Athesia, Bozen 2009.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Detailed drawing of the ice city in Italian , accessed on April 5, 2017.
