Ettore Castiglioni

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Ettore Castiglioni (born August 18, 1908 in Ruffrè ; † March 12, 1944 on the Forno Pass) was an Italian climber .

Life

Castiglioni came from a wealthy Milanese family. At the end of the 1920s, he began studying law and graduated with a doctorate. Around 1942/1943 he was drafted into the army and trained alpinists there, first in the Dolomites , then in Aosta . After the armistice of September 8, 1943 , Castiglioni and a dozen of his Alpini students settled on an alp above Ollomont and helped hundreds of persecuted people to flee to Switzerland . From 1944 he supported the anti-fascist movement and illegally crossed the border to Switzerland several times. On March 11, 1944, he was checked with a false passport and arrested during such an illegal border crossing in Maloja . The following day, he fled back to Italy with makeshift clothing and died shortly after crossing the border from exhaustion during a snow storm at the Forno Pass in the uppermost Val Malenco in Bergell .

climber

At the age of eleven, he and his brothers climbed his first peaks in the Dolomites. He started climbing when he was seventeen when he climbed the north face of Sass da Mur. Between 1923 and 1943 he achieved an impressive mountaineering career with over 200 first ascents in the Dolomites, especially in the Pala Group . Around 1934 Bruno Detassis was often his rope partner on his first ascents. As a mountaineer he was an outspoken esthete who managed to climb the mountain via an elegant route. Therefore, his routes are classically beautiful climbs.

In 1936/37 Castiglioni took part in an Italian Patagonia expedition, but failed in an attempt to climb Fiz Roy .

Castiglioni was also active as a guide author. In 1927 his first article appeared in the Rivista mensile of the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI), which was soon followed by numerous others, also in other alpine magazines. In 1935 his first climbing guide about the Pale di San Martino appeared in the series Guida dei Monti d'Italia

First ascents (excerpt)

  • Cimerlo east face
  • 1923: Pelmetto west face, southern guide ( IV )
  • 1926: Cima di Vezzana - west face ( IV )
  • 1929: Torre Venezia west wall ( IV )
  • 1930: Punta-Fiames, direct south edge ( IV )
  • 1931: Croda dei Toni di Mezzo, western edge ( IV )
  • 1931: Sorapiss Northwest Face ( IV )
  • 1933: Fanis tower south edge ( V )
  • 1934: Sasso-d'Ortiga north face ( V )
  • 1934: Cima d'Oltro north-west edge ( IV )
  • July 18, 1934: Pala del Rifugio north-west edge ( V )
  • July 22, 1934: Cima-Wilma -Südwestkante ( V )
  • Cima Canali south face
  • 1934: Campanile-Pradidali -Estwand ( IV )
  • 1934: Sass-Maor -Southeast Edge ( VI )
  • Cima-di-Roda west face
  • 1934: Cima-delle-Ziròccole-Südkante ( IV )
  • 1934: Cima del Focobòn north face ( VI )
  • 1934: Pala-di-San-Martino -Südostkante ( V )
  • 1934: Cima d'Angheraz west face ( IV )
  • Cima Immink Northeast Face
  • Cima delle Cornelle north face
  • Piz Long north face
  • Torri del Cimerlo
  • 1934: Campanile d'Ostio ( V )
  • Spiz del Lastia
  • 1935: Piz Serauta East Ridge ( II )
  • 1935: Gran Vernel , West Ridge ( IV )
  • 1935: Cime del Marble North Ridge ( IV )
  • 1935: Kleine Fermeda, Northwest Face ( V )
  • July 10, 1935: Neuner-Ostwand ( IV + )
  • September 26, 1935: Piz-Ciavazes -South Face ( VI- )
  • 1936: Marmolada di Rocca, south face ( VI )
  • 1941: Croda dei Toni Sud, east wall, right part ( IV )
  • 1942: Croda dei Toni Sud, east wall, middle part ( IV )
  • 1942: Cima Witzenmann, north face ( III )
  • 1942: Torre-di-Brenta -Estkante ( V )
  • 1942: Marmolada d'Ombretta, south face ( V )
  • 1942: Punta Serauta southeast face ( V )
  • 1942: Cime Ombretta, East Ridge
  • 1942: Sasso di Valfredda, north face ( I )
  • 1942: Croda dei Toni, southeast edge ( III )
  • 1943: Piz Popena , entire south ridge ( IV )
  • 1943: Monte Giralba di Sotto, southwest face ( III )

Publications (selection)

Castiglioni wrote numerous hiking guides:

  • Pale di S. Martino, Gruppo dei Feruc, Alpi Feltrine . Club Alpino Italiano, Milano 1935, (Italian)
  • Guida sciistica delle Dolomiti . Edizioni Montes, Torino 1942.
  • Il giorno delle Mèsules , Vivalda, 1993. ISBN 88-7808-105-1

Honors

In 1936 Castiglioni was honored with the gold medal for alpine achievements while still alive. In 1956 a plaque for Castiglioni was unveiled at the church of Chiareggio.

Were named in honor of Ettore Castiglioni.

literature

  • Mountaineer , May 1982
  • Marco A. Ferrari: La Storia di Ettore Castigioni , ISBN 8850201060
  • Adriano Bazzocco: Ettore Castiglioni. La fine drammatica di un alpinista antifascista. In: Arte & Storia , Edizioni Ticino Management, 7th volume, number 31, Lugano 2006, pp. 25, 26.

Web links

  • CV (PDF; 1.7 MB) - accessed on November 4, 2010.
  • Personal folder for Ettore Castiglioni (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Climbing Guide in Bergsteiger , July 1991
  2. ↑ Description of the route in the Val Canali (Italian) - accessed on November 4, 2010 ( Memento of the original from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.valcanali.it
personal data
SURNAME Castiglioni, Ettore
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian climber
DATE OF BIRTH August 18, 1908
PLACE OF BIRTH Ruffrè
DATE OF DEATH March 12, 1944
Place of death at the Forno Pass