Crozzon di Brenta
| Crozzon di Brenta | ||
|---|---|---|
 Seen from the north, in the background left the Cima Tosa |
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| height | 3122 m slm | |
| location | Trentino , Italy | |
| Mountains | Brenta Group | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 9 '44 " N , 10 ° 52' 8" E | |
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| Type | Felsberg | |
| rock | Main dolomite | |
| First ascent | August 8, 1884 by Karl Schulz, led by Matteo Nicolussi | |
| Normal way | from the east over the Cima Tosa | |
| particularities | third highest peak in the Brenta group | |
The Crozzon di Brenta (Italian: croz , steep rock) is at 3122.3 m slm the third highest peak of the Brenta group in the southern Limestone Alps in the Italian province of Trento . The Crozzon is a mighty rock mountain, the approximately 900 meter high north-east face of which rises almost vertically above the Val Brenta ( Brenta Valley ) to the north, giving it a great geographical dominance over the surroundings. Due to its imposing appearance, easy accessibility and attractive routes, it is a popular destination for mountaineers and climbers . The Crozzon was first climbed on August 8, 1884 by the Leipzig professor Karl Schulz and the mountain guide Matteo Nicolussi from Molveno from the south via the Cima Tosa .
geology
The Crozzon belongs to the southern central part of the Brenta, whose formative rock, the extremely hard main dolomite , is around 1000 meters thick . During the alpine mountain formation , the sedimentary rock was not arched up like limestone or slate , but broken, which gave the area its rugged character with its vertical towers and massive rock faces. The main dolomite has about 40 to 50 meters thick layers of different dolomite rock, which forms the horizontal or slightly sloping distinctive bands due to different weathering. These belts made the Brenta accessible to tourists in the 19th century thanks to their accessibility.
Surroundings
The Crozzon is the third highest peak of the Brenta after the Cima Brenta and Cima Tosa . The Cima Tosa, which was formerly firn-covered all year round , with its height of 3,133.5 meters, lies south in the rugged ridge. The small Vedretta Camosci glacier stretches to the west and the famous Tosarinne (also called Canalone Neri ) to the east , a 900 meter high ice channel between the walls of the Cima Tosa and the Crozzon, inclined up to 50 °. Other neighboring mountains in the east are the Cima Margherita with 2845 meters high and the 2960 meter high Cima Brenta Alta . In the west are the 2880 meter high Cima Fracinglo II , the Cima Nardis (2623 m) and some other, rather insignificant peaks with heights of up to 2600 meters. To the north the area drops almost vertically into the Val Brenta, to the east to the Lago di Molveno (water level at 800 meters) and to the west the terrain runs down into the Val d 'Agola . The closest villages in the north-west are Madonna di Campiglio in the Campigliotal , about 8.5 kilometers as the crow flies , Molveno in the east and 7.5 km in the east, and San Lorenzo in Banale a good 9 km in the south .
Ascent history
In contrast to the Cima Tosa, the Crozzon was long regarded as impassable because of its rugged and forbidding steepness. Julius von Payer described it in 1864 as a true rock tower of unprecedented magnificence . Douglas William Freshfield , who stood on the summit of the Cima Tosa in 1873, noted: Its summit may one day be reached, but there is a chasm to cross, and the Matterhorn has no more terrible falls (this chasm above the Tosar channel is nowadays used in literature with the level of difficulty UIAA II indicated, but with great exposure ). In 1882 the Italian mountaineers Alberto de Falkner and Annibale Apollonio considered the position to be inaccessible . The first attempt to reach the Crozzon was made on July 16, 1882 by the mountain guide M. Nicolussi with the Austrian geographer Oskar Baumann , but they failed due to a rock tooth just below the main summit. On July 19, Edward Theodore Compton tried with A. de Falkner, led by Dallagiacoma and M. Nicolussi, who joined later, to climb the Crozzon without touching the Cima Tosa. They came from the northwest over the Vedretta Camosci and climbed through a dark chimney . Dallagiacoma hit step upon step with an ice ax , and Compton remarked: We were glad to finally step out of the icy path to the warm rocks, especially since stones and icicles had passed us several times. But they only reached the Steinmann who had been piled up by O. Baumann three days earlier . After 12 hours they too had to turn back at the same point, the rock point was insurmountable for them too. Only two years later, on August 2, 1884, should another attempt be made. At the Tosahütte , the Leipzig scientist Karl Schulz met M. Nicolussi, and the Italians de Falkner and Pigozzi met their mountain guides Antonio Dallagiacoma and Ferrari. Both groups had the intention to climb the Crozzon, an agreement was reached and it was decided to spend the night in a tent below the Camosci glacier. On August 3, was broken to 5 U. 15 on, followed the same route as Nicolussi in 1882, reaching approximately the point where all previous attempts had failed, Pigozzi had to stay behind earlier. Ferrari, Schulz and Nicolussi wanted to continue overcoming the steep wall that followed, when de Falkner, who had stayed behind on the plateau, was better able to turn back, pointing out the advanced time and the fact that the tired Pigozzi would not be able to descend in time. Karl Schulz writes: In a somewhat disturbed harmony one went back over the Tosa to the refuge . The group was en route for 15 hours. On August 8th the time had come. Schulz and Nicolussi left without the expected de Falkner, who did not appear, at 4 a.m. (later it turned out that de Falkner wanted to make the first ascent of Crozzon possible for another group, who had registered for August 9th). This time they crossed the Cima Tosa and stood to 7 U. 35 above the Tosarinne. Then they overcame the upstream rocky peaks of the Crozzon. At 10 o'clock they reached the summit plateau.
In the weeks that followed, this crossing, but also the direct ascent over the Camosci glacier, always under the guidance of M. Nicolussi, was repeated several times. In the 1890s, his younger brother Bonifacio took over the leadership of the Crozzon.
Bases and routes
The route of the first to climb the Crozzon from 1884 is still the normal route today , the easiest ascent. First of all, the Cima Tosa has to be conquered, which Rifugio Tosa e “T. Pedrotti ” at an altitude of 2496 meters can be reached in a walking time of around 2 hours with difficulty levels UIAA I and II. According to the literature, the crossing to the Crozzon takes an additional 1 to 2 hours in the very exposed UIAA II degree. On the summit of the Crozzon there is a bivouac box , the Bivacco Ettore Castiglioni , for four people. Other bases are the Rifugio Silvio Agostini (2410 m) to the south and the Rifugio XII Apostoli , 2489 meters high, in the southwest .
Since 1911, also were serious climbing routes through the massive, almost vertical walls, such as the Preußroute , named after Paul Preuss , + opened by the northeast face in today UIAA level IV. In the 1930s, more difficult climbs were added, such as the Via delle Guide in UIAA grade V +. In 1965, the Livanos route was opened through the east wall ( key point UIAA VI-) and the Steinkötter climb on the French pillar , UIAA VI-. In 1980, the New Line was finally added in UIAA grade V +.
The Tosarinne was first climbed single-handedly by Vergilio Neri on July 21, 1929 and was then given the name Canalone Neri .
Literature and map
- Raimund von Klebelsberg : Geological guide through the South Tyrolean Dolomites , Berlin 1928
- Douglas William Freshfield: Italian Alps. Sketches in the Mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the Trentino, and Venetia , London 1875
- Oskar Baumann in the Oesterreichische Alpenzeitung , Volume IV, Vienna 1882
- Edward Theodore Compton in The Alpine Journal , Volume XI, London 1882
- Karl Schulz in Eduard Richter : The Development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894
- Heinz Steinkötter: Alpine Club Leader Brenta Group , Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1311-7
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 51, Brenta group
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ portals Geocartografico Trentino , Provincia Autonoma di Trento
- ↑ Yearbook of the Alpine Association , Volume V, Vienna 1871, p. 133
- ^ Douglas William Freshfield: Italian Alps: Sketches in the mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the Trentino and Venetia , London 1875, p. 274
- ↑ Annibale Apollonio: Relazione sulla nomenclatura del Gruppo di Brenta , Annali tridentini, 1881-1882, p. 31
- ↑ Karl Schulz in: Eduard Richter, The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume III, Berlin 1894, p. 307 ff.
- ↑ Heinz Steinkötter, Alpine Club Leader Brenta Group , Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1311-7 , p. 81 ff.